Engine

[xrcr]

Woo Hoo!!! I got the motor freed up yesterday. 3 weeks or so of tapping, rocking and prying paid off. Tranny fluid and Kroil worked for me.I have a question on the head bolts. The originals are pitted a bit but thinking I get grade 8's that match. Major clean up today and spin the hone.. Going to pop the valves and clean as well. Another question. The head gasket looks good. Instead of buying a new one just yet I'm thinking I'd fire it just to see if it will. Just a quick hit. I intend to replace it for final assembly. Any advice is appreciated
xrcr

[inairam]

I have used grade 9 bolts in the head. You will have to grind to length. Put a chaser or a nut on first to clean the threads after grinding. Also chase the threads int he block. You also need some thread seal.

I personally would not try to start it until you are ready. I would see it as too much work. here is a post on my last head off viewtopic.php?f=1&t=93111

[Jim Reid]

I was rebuilding an engine and talked with a longtime friend and mechanic who worked on a lot of different engines he said grade 8 bolts were to hard and would break they were not designed to stretch like orginal head bolts.

[inairam]

The loads on the cub are low compaired to modern engines. I use high grade bolts to reduce the chance breaking the puting them in or taking out compaired to the about grade 5 bolts orginally used.

[Bob McCarty]

You will have to grind to length.

Or use a thick washer of the same grade to take up the difference.

[BillBolt]

I just cleaned my head boots and reused them. My head gasket looked good. I put a little grease on it. Works for me. My cub sat for 25 years and I wanted to see what shape the engine was in and 2 years later same gasket , head bolts , runs good , no leaks.

[outdoors4evr]

If grade 5 worked for 60 + years. I see no reason to buy anything harder.

[Gary Dotson]

The specified bolt tightening torque, for the Cub, is beyond the rated capacity of grade 5 bolts, grade 8 is marginal, hence the grade 9 bolts that many are using. I think it's the correct call.

[Stanton]

Woo Hoo!!! I got the motor freed up yesterday. 3 weeks or so of tapping, rocking and prying paid off. Tranny fluid and Kroil worked for me.I have a question on the head bolts. The originals are pitted a bit but thinking I get grade 8's that match. Major clean up today and spin the hone.. Going to pop the valves and clean as well. Another question. The head gasket looks good. Instead of buying a new one just yet I'm thinking I'd fire it just to see if it will. Just a quick hit. I intend to replace it for final assembly. Any advice is appreciated
xrcr

Here's a reference thread from Bob McCarty pertaining to the extra thick washers, if you want to go that route: http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=95763&p=754282&hilit=manifold+washer#p754143.

Glad to hear your success. I've found a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF is the best penetrant. Definitely replace the headbolts with grade 8 and coat the threads. Here's a great reference post by Glen on what to use: http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=102322&start=45#p818355.

IMO, it probably won't hurt a thing to re-use the head gasket just to see if the engine runs. Coat it good with Copper Coat spray.

[xrcr]

Thanks for all the replies. Seems to be a little bit of variance in the head bolt debate. I'm leaning towards using the originals. Another question is how do you get the valve spring keepers off without losing them. It's upside down from what I'm used too. I've got some ideas but thought I would float the question to the experts

[Slim140]

I reused my original head bolts when I rebuilt the '47. Had one stretch and almost break. Went ahead and put grade 9's in it.

[Waif]

I reused my original head bolts when I rebuilt the '47. Had one stretch and almost break. Went ahead and put grade 9's in it.

Your example is a good argument for new bolts.
More so if original specs are used/desired.
Some other engines demand new head bolts when old or original ones are removed.

Original Cub engineers had their reasons. I don't know if they wanted a bolt to give some movement before a head stressed...Or if it was a matter of economy.
Given the robust nature of a Cub , the economy angle is not as strong. (?)

[FIRSTCUB]

Awesome news....send some of that luck my way !!

[xrcr]

Patience is key First Cub. I get it's tough. My patience stems from being a tightwad and a mess of grandkids. You will get it

[xrcr]

Shane N. That pic convinced me to spend the money. Where did you get your new bolts? Alot of questionable stuff on the interweb