Faulty New Key Switch

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Crimson Tim
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So far, Paul and Ringo have arrived. John and George were supposed to follow ages ago, but apparently have gone awol. Long story.
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Faulty New Key Switch

Postby Crimson Tim » Sat Sep 14, 2019 8:07 pm

I just installed a new starter switch. This is on a ‘77, so it is the key switch (60736C2).
I cannot see how anything I did hooking it up could have this effect. There’s only three wires, Battery, run and start, so how far wrong could I go? It must be the contacts inside the switch are set up wrong.

The tractor will not fire at all as long as you are holding the key in “start”. It spins up great, but no attempt to run whatsoever. But as soon as you let go of the key, >BOOM<, it fires right up easy peasey, like always. It should be getting run juice at the same time it’s getting start juice, but it is not.

Has anybody else seen this? I guess that’s what I get for buying even the simplest of parts off of Amazon. :roll:
I suppose It’s not really a problem. It does start fine. It does run fine. But darn it, I don’t want to start every tractor experience with the disappointment that it’s not going to start, even if it is just a momentary impression. I guess I’ll be contacting the seller...

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Glen
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Re: Faulty New Key Switch

Postby Glen » Sat Sep 14, 2019 8:40 pm

Hi,
If the 3 wires are in the original type connector, and you didn't move them, it should work normally.
All the contacts at the ends of the wires need to be clean. Dirty or corroded contacts can cause problems. Clean them if needed.

Below is a listing at TM Tractor for a new switch. It says it is a genuine Case IH part, you could look at the pics and see if it looks the same as yours. :)

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/907fp.htm

There can be differences in the quality of electrical parts. We have bought universal type ignition switches before, that didn't work right. A different brand worked normally.

Eugene
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Re: Faulty New Key Switch

Postby Eugene » Sat Sep 14, 2019 9:28 pm

Crimson Tim wrote:There’s only three wires, Battery, run and start, so how far wrong could I go? It must be the contacts inside the switch are set up wrong.
Quite possible.

After purchasing a new switch and before installation, I Ohm/continuity test the switch in all of the key positions. I pencil the wire terminal locations on paper. Then, as I test the switch I write down the results.
I have an excuse. CRS.

mozer71
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Re: Faulty New Key Switch

Postby mozer71 » Sun Sep 15, 2019 12:43 am

Neat. Nail it to the wall .

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tnestell
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Re: Faulty New Key Switch

Postby tnestell » Sun Sep 15, 2019 7:28 am


halftonstude
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Re: Faulty New Key Switch

Postby halftonstude » Sun Sep 22, 2019 3:18 pm

anything is possible with a mechanical part. it might be missing a ball detent that keeps the ignition side hot while the start contact is engaged. If you have some electronic know-how you could just drop a diode between the start and ignition contacts to save you the frustration of pulling the old new switch out to change it for a new new switch... it would bug the heck out of me i wouldn't be able to sleep at night. i'd have to change it, but the diode fix would hold you over till you got around to changing it.
c


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