hydraulic oddity

[RedFox]

So last season I was plowing snow and all of the sudden, the blade goes down on it's own. I take a look at the control lever and it's moved to the down position. I move it back up and within say 10 seconds or less, the level re-positions down and the plow blade goes down. Thought it was low fluid or air in the line, but I changed out the fluid and still the problem persists. Anyone see this before?

[tmays]

If I understand your problem correctly, sounds like friction disc is missing or needs replaced on the control lever

[RedFox]

Thanks...wasn't sure if it was the control level or something more sinister.

Replacing the friction disc is an easy inexpensive thing to try. My guess is you're right on the money on this one. Ordered the part from T&M this evening along with some other odds and ends getting Daisy ready from plowing season.

[Glen]

Hi,
If this is on your 1977 Cub, the newer Cubs have an adjustable lever tension. There are 2 thin nuts under the lever base, where the spring is.
The disc could be wornout, but the nuts have to be adjusted so there is tension, to hold the lever in one position. The Touch Control will make the lever move, if there isn't enough tension in the lever spring.

Below is a page from the Cub parts manual, showing the lever. It doesn't show the nuts in the pic, but they are listed at the number 2 description.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 010-11.jpg

The nuts should jammed together, they may be too tight to loosen on the Cub, you may have to take the lever assembly off the Cub, and maybe use a vise to hold it. Try to keep wrenches from slipping on the nuts.
Tighten them together when done adjusting the tension.

Below are pics from TM Tractor.

http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/ghy ... dj_001.htm

[RedFox]

Thanks Glen. I tore into it this weekend and figured out the tension bolts. I did tighten them, and that seems to have done the trick, but after 42 years, I can see compared to the thickness of the replacement ring I bought that the old one is simply wearing down. I many get a few more years out of it, but I had to max the tension to be able to get any real useful friction on it.

Looking at the diagram, anyone have any idea how to get the friction washer out. I just can't see how to get the rod assembly out to even be able to put a new washer in.

[Glen]

Hi,
I think you remove the 2 nuts, and shaft number 2 in the parts pic comes out.