Engine cutting out

[padre]

Coil has been recently replaced based on this troubleshooting.

[Eugene]

Coil has been recently replaced based on this troubleshooting.

Yup. I read that. Quality of new parts, not so good, frequently fail.

Point, condenser change, timing tune up, actually complete engine tune up. Problem persists, use some of the diagnostic tests posted.

[Dale Finch]

OHH .. one question. These are extremely close quarters between the oil filter housing and the distributor cap. I question my ability to work on the points and condenser at that angle with my level of experience (which is near zero!). Which would be better: try it attached or remove the distributor? Which would actually be more difficult in the long run?

Many folks DO prefer to remove the distributor to change the points. While off, you can clean it up and check out the springs inside by removing a few parts. You can also pump some grease into the 2 holes that have slotted plugs in them, by removing the plugs and installing grease fittings.
This post by Jim should help out:
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=140&t=20053

[Glen]

Hi,
I find it easier to leave the Battery Ignition unit on the engine, then you don't lose the timing.
If you have never had one off the engine before, and want to remove it, take off the distributor cap, and look at where the rotor is facing, before removing it from the engine.
The rotor has to be in exactly the same position when you put the unit on the engine.

The drive, and it's shaft, is not fastened in the unit, it is free and can slide out of the unit. If you tip the front end of the unit down when you remove the unit from the engine, the drive will probably slide out, onto the floor. Then the timing can be lost, if you don't put it in exactly like it was before.
The gear teeth have many positions the drive can be put in.

Below is a listing at TM Tractor, showing the drive. You can see what it looks like.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/162fp.htm

Below is a pic from TM Tractor of the drive end of the Battery Ignition unit. It is easy to turn the drive 1/2 turn, or more, when it is off the engine, working on the unit, then it would be timed wrong.

[padre]

I am totally amazed! After I replaced the condenser and points the tractor actually started and ran. It was the same feeling I had after building my own computer. It actually worked and is still working now. I don't want to decare premature victory but I mowed tonight until almost dark and the engine just purred along. Thanks to Glen and all the others who encouraged me to do this work myself.

I did find some more problems as I worked on the engine, so I will post a new topic.

[padre]

Now a little bit of concerning news: the inside of the distributor (where the points and condenser are) was covered with oil or light grease -- very dark in color. Of course, I wiped it as clean as I could. Encouraged by Glen's post I did all this work with the distributor on the tractor. I did not remove it. A good description would be that the condenser wire (at the bottom of the case) was saturated with this oil. That, in itself, could have caused some of my problems. It looks liked it had been that way for some time. Once again, I will appreciate any suggestions or comments.

[Gary Dotson]

Generally, excessive oil in the distributor is caused by a leaking governor drive seal, although it could be from someone, in the past, over lubricating the distributor drive. You've cleaned it out, so continue running it and have a look inside, after several uses, and see if it builds up again. The seal replacement is easy enough, for a veteran, but may be a bit daunting for a novice. It will involve removing parts that you won't be comfortable messing with. When the time comes, you'll find your support here.

[BullDAWG]

One other thing I haven't seen anyone mention that can case these tractors to run intermittently is a clogged fuel cap. If the vent on it is clogged it can cause the tractor to run fine for a while but once the pressure builds from it not venting it can cause a fuel starvation problem. The next time it acts up try stopping and remove the gas cap and see if it helps. Be careful though and kill the engine while doing this as if it is under pressure fuel can come out and spill (this can be dangerous) so slowly open and be careful!!! Another option is if you don't have the NEW tall (almost 3" tall) gas cap, you can get one for FREE from Case IH. Google it (or some here may know where the web sight is, but you just say your tractors serial # (or description if tag is missing) and they will mail you one for free. I've gotten 4 for my cubs and Super A and they have always been sent in under a week so they send them fast. It probably is in the wiring or points but this is another thing that can cause this same issue so I'd order a free gas cap just to be safe (both safer venting than the old caps, and safer to be sure if this is the problem you can get it fixed for free...)

[padre]

Thanks, Ol Timey, I have ordered that free gas cap. However, I have tried the test you suggested. That did not seem to be my problem.

[farmall57]

I had a strange one on a Cub Cadet 100. It ran nearly like what you describe, good sometimes all day and sometimes not. It was where a group of wires went thru a circlip wire holder the feed to the coil was shorting out to ground. It had to get good and hot and the wires get limp in order for it to do it, aggrevated when you would hit the correct bump or jar the tractor right. I happen to find it by seeing it in the dark, it was arcing to ground but was not a good enough connection to actually kill the engine, just jump once in a while and create a miss.

[Glen]

Hi,
The oil in the Battery Ignition unit can be from the oil seal leaking, where the unit bolts on the engine.

Below is your post from a few weeks ago, with info and pics I posted, part way down the page.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=105035&p=831630

The wire for the condenser is supposed to go up over the top of the points, the pic I posted before shows it. Someone may have put the condenser upside down before, if the wire was at the bottom.

[padre]

As always, Thank you, Glen. I will post a photo here of the inside of the distributor as it was when I opened it. The wire from the condenser was at the bottom. It is hard to see it here because of the oil. I have referenced your earlier reply, but this was the first time I had seen the extent of the oil, so I reported it again.