I'll take a flashlight today and look. I'm pretty sure it ok, however I will double check.
Thanks for the great advice.
This site uses cookies to maintain login information on FarmallCub.Com. Click the X in the banner upper right corner to close this notice. For more information on our privacy policy, visit this link: Privacy Policy
NEW REGISTERED MEMBERS: Be sure to check your SPAM/JUNK folders for the activation email.
1953 Brake Issue
Forum rules
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
-
- Cub Star
- Posts: 75
- Joined: Wed Jul 17, 2019 10:57 am
- Zip Code: 48023
-
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2019 9:41 pm
- Zip Code: 63069
Re: 1953 Brake Issue
Hello folks, I have a 53' Cub that has a brake issue on the right side. I am new to this forum and really enjoy all the helpful posts that are made here! This is a Great reference tool!
- Glen
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 6115
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Wa.
Re: 1953 Brake Issue
Hi,
53 Red, this post has lots of info about repairing the brakes. Reading the other pages in the post would be helpful. Read the Cub service manual, I posted the link for it on one of the pages, and read Dale Finch's post about brake repair, it has pics.
If you are going to take the right final drive off the Cub, it has a longer shaft than the left side, the shaft is attached to the final drive, like the left side.
It works better to remove the final drive from the extension first. Then look in with a light and see if the oil seal in the transmission is leaking. If it is leaking it needs replacing, to keep the oil off the brake lining.
If it is not leaking, it would be good to replace it, if it is old. If it leaks in the future, it can get oil on the brake lining.
It is more work to replace the right side seal in the trans, you have to remove the seat and battery box, loosen the platform, raise it up some, then remove the right side extension.
53 Red, this post has lots of info about repairing the brakes. Reading the other pages in the post would be helpful. Read the Cub service manual, I posted the link for it on one of the pages, and read Dale Finch's post about brake repair, it has pics.
If you are going to take the right final drive off the Cub, it has a longer shaft than the left side, the shaft is attached to the final drive, like the left side.
It works better to remove the final drive from the extension first. Then look in with a light and see if the oil seal in the transmission is leaking. If it is leaking it needs replacing, to keep the oil off the brake lining.
If it is not leaking, it would be good to replace it, if it is old. If it leaks in the future, it can get oil on the brake lining.
It is more work to replace the right side seal in the trans, you have to remove the seat and battery box, loosen the platform, raise it up some, then remove the right side extension.
Last edited by Glen on Tue Aug 13, 2019 4:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Indy4570
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 961
- Joined: Tue Nov 28, 2017 2:12 am
- Zip Code: 65608
- Tractors Owned: 49 F cub, donor
50 Farmall Cub bugeyes(dead)
55 Farmall Cub Clementine
55 International loboy
62 140 Industrial The Beast
50s Allis Chalmers B
50 Ferguson TO20 Huppster
49 Ferguson TE20 Fergie
JD 790 4x4 w/backhoe
hinomoto diesel 4x4, early to mid 80s 20HP
73 Pasquali 4x4 diesel 33HP
74 Toro golf course tractor
Gilson 18HP - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Missouri Ozarks
Re: 1953 Brake Issue
This thread is an example of the goodwill shown by many good people here. Some Opinions differ but all participating show only a desire to help the OP with the problems. I am another that has a few cubs with brake issues. I will be consulting this thread and others posted here when I tackle the repair.
better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it...( YES this includes CUBS! )
-
- Cub Star
- Posts: 75
- Joined: Wed Jul 17, 2019 10:57 am
- Zip Code: 48023
Re: 1953 Brake Issue
Good morning.
So I burned the midnight oil and got it ALL back together last night. I got to the most simplest step and Bam!
The brake rod that screws into the clevis is, for some reason, 1/4" too short!!!
My first thought would be to get a small piece of threaded rod and a female to female coupler, however I shouldn't have to.
Thoughts???
So I burned the midnight oil and got it ALL back together last night. I got to the most simplest step and Bam!
The brake rod that screws into the clevis is, for some reason, 1/4" too short!!!
My first thought would be to get a small piece of threaded rod and a female to female coupler, however I shouldn't have to.
Thoughts???
-
- Team Cub
- Posts: 17242
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:59 pm
- Zip Code: 55319
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: MN
Re: 1953 Brake Issue
Maybe you have a situation involving how the brake band is bent. Check this post from someone that had a similar problem.
viewtopic.php?t=14715
Do you have toggle brakes? I'm not sure if the toggle can be misassembled but it is something to double check. Also, if toggle brakes, there are threads and an adjustable clevis on each end of the rod.
viewtopic.php?t=14715
Do you have toggle brakes? I'm not sure if the toggle can be misassembled but it is something to double check. Also, if toggle brakes, there are threads and an adjustable clevis on each end of the rod.
-
- Cub Star
- Posts: 75
- Joined: Wed Jul 17, 2019 10:57 am
- Zip Code: 48023
Re: 1953 Brake Issue
My brake has the long bar attached to the friction material. I dont have a lever by the final.
-
- Team Cub
- Posts: 17242
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:59 pm
- Zip Code: 55319
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: MN
Re: 1953 Brake Issue
57j2olds wrote:My brake has the long bar attached to the friction material. I dont have a lever by the final.
OK, that knocks out a couple possibilities. The problem discussed in the other thread was on a toggle brake system. However, the shape and location of the bends as he described could still be causing your situation.
If you are working with a new band, the lining may be thicker than the original spec or maybe some other failure to make an accurate reproduction is the problem.
-
- Cub Star
- Posts: 75
- Joined: Wed Jul 17, 2019 10:57 am
- Zip Code: 48023
Re: 1953 Brake Issue
I may go with my my first thought and use a coupler until the material of wore down enough to install the correct way.
UGHHHHHH
UGHHHHHH
- Slim140
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 4908
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2017 6:24 am
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: .
1970 International 140
1972 International 140
1949 John Deere A
1993 Ford 4630 W/Loader
1965 John Deere 110
1961 Cub Cadet Original - Circle of Safety: Y
Re: 1953 Brake Issue
Here's a post on the same problem you are having.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=96391&hilit=brake+rod+too+short#p758966
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=96391&hilit=brake+rod+too+short#p758966
Every home is a school, what are you teaching?
- Dale Finch
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 6645
- Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 11:34 am
- Zip Code: 27517
- Tractors Owned: '51 Cub #140966 "Bruno" with Woods 59 mower
'55 Cub #187541 "Betty" with Fast Hitch
'55 Cub #190482 "Ben" with Woods 42 mower
'55 Cub #191739 "Bertha" with Woods 42 mower
'56 Cub #194370 "Boris" with Mott Flail mower - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: NC, Chapel Hill
Re: 1953 Brake Issue
I don't think you want to let it "wear down". Unfortunately, my guess is that the brake band is deformed a bit or the lining isn't attached completely against the band, causing a smaller effective circle around the drum. If that is the case, all you might achieve is wearing out (prematurely) a small section of the lining where it IS contacting the drum.
- Glen
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 6115
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Wa.
Re: 1953 Brake Issue
Hi,
Too bad the rod is too short.
Below are pics showing the positions of the brake linkage, when the brake pedals are fully up.
The rectangular piece has to angle back towards the rear, to connect to the clevis.
The brake and clutch pedals should have return springs under the platform, to hold them fully up, against the edge of the platform.
Too bad the rod is too short.
Below are pics showing the positions of the brake linkage, when the brake pedals are fully up.
The rectangular piece has to angle back towards the rear, to connect to the clevis.
The brake and clutch pedals should have return springs under the platform, to hold them fully up, against the edge of the platform.
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 1138
- Joined: Thu Aug 25, 2016 1:29 pm
- Zip Code: 49343
- Tractors Owned: 48 Farmall Cub "Seen Yore Dobbin"
53 F-Cub W/Loader. - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Michigan
Re: 1953 Brake Issue
57j2olds wrote:Good morning.
So I burned the midnight oil and got it ALL back together last night. I got to the most simplest step and Bam!
The brake rod that screws into the clevis is, for some reason, 1/4" too short!!!
My first thought would be to get a small piece of threaded rod and a female to female coupler, however I shouldn't have to.
Thoughts???
Thought might be similar to , Arrrrgh!.
Along the lines of Glens post , be sure brake pedals are not "sagging".
They touch the platform when retracted by springs .
Don't forget wanting to have about and inch (minus an eighth) free play in the pedals before brakes start engaging after final adjustment.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 28 guests