1953 Brake Issue

[57j2olds]

So my right side brakes works and left side does not.

Where should I begin?

[Dale Finch]

If you read through the HOW TO section, you will find many posts that answer questions about most of the typical cub issues. Bere is one I posted a while ago...hope it helps:
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=142&t=78436
Suggestion: take LOTS of photos (more is better) from many angles...this will assist tremendously in reassembly!

[Urbish]

Good stuff there, Dale. Before disassembling, there are a few things you can check.

Check to ensure that the brake actuation rod isn't out of adjustment. If you run out of pedal before the brake band is applied, you may adjust at the clevis. If the clevis is adjusted to the minimum length of the rod, it's probably time to replace the linings.

Use a bright light to look into the slot in the final that the brake actuation rod goes through. Verify that the drum hasn't 'walked' laterally along the shaft. Sometimes the set-screws loosen and the drums move out of alignment. You may be able to see the lining too if you squint real hard. If it's less than 1/8" thick, it may need to be replaced.

If all looks good, but it is oily/greasy in there, try cleaning with brake cleaner shot through the slot. This may be a short term fix as leaky seals on the output shafts of the transmission will lead to the brakes getting soaked with gear lube again. Note that brake cleaner may mess up your paint if recently painted.

Ensure that your transmission isn't overfilled. This can cause your output shaft seals to leak even though they wouldn't if it was filled to the proper level.

If all else fails, it's probably time to remove the final (per Dale's guide) and assess what is going on.

For what it's worth, here's a handy thread on making your own brake linings. http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=66324 I bought the rivet setting tool and materials to do mine several years ago. They're working great without any issues.

Jim

[Stanton]

Dale's got a very good step-by-step How To there. You can find a link to a video here and another How To on brakes:
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=66324
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=142&t=100136

I will stress the safety aspect of the whole thing. Be sure to wedge the front axle, as Dale mentions, and make sure your jack is secure.

[57j2olds]

Thanks guys. I hope its just a clevis pin or oil issue. Looks like a pain in the ass to change linings!

[Urbish]

Thanks guys. I hope its just a clevis pin or oil issue. Looks like a pain in the ass to change linings!

It's more complicated that doing a brake job on a car. Fortunately you don't have to do them very often

[ntrenn]

It may not seem like it, but the left side is the ‘easy’ side. While you are there, change the differential seal, 450043 is the cross to national...Oreilly is good on price.

When you run into completely rusted together rods, the clevises and hardened (grade 8 ) all thread are available from McMaster. I inherited rods that had been broken and welded in several places.

[57j2olds]

So upon further investigation tonight I can see that the brake material is completely off of the drum.

How do I get the brake assembly back onto the drum without pulling the wheel off?

[Glen]

Hi,
You didn't say which style of brakes you have, IH changed them during 1953 at serial number 173601.

If you mean the brake drum has moved sideways on the shaft, the newer style final drive housing has larger holes to work through than the Cub in Dale's repair post.

You might be able to work through the holes with a small bar, and move the brake drum along the shaft, but the setscrew in the brake drum has to be loose so the drum will move on the shaft, then after moving the drum, the setscrew has to be tightened to keep the drum in place.
The setscrew in the brake drum is shown in Dale's repair post.

The key in the axle shaft has to be in place too, or the drum can turn on the shaft, wearing the shaft and drum. There have been pics of that on here before.
Below is a listing at TM Tractor for a new key, it has a pic of where it goes, and the final drives.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/br/3954fp.htm

If you look in the brake areas with a light, and they look oily and dirty, the oil seals are probably leaking.
The transmission oil could be overfilled, making the oil seals leak. I don't know if you have checked or changed the trans oil. It uses 3 1/2 Pints of oil. They commonly get water in them, from rain, or condensation inside them over time. The water can raise the fluid level, until it seeps out the oil seals.
The Cub owner's manual shows how to check and change the trans oil, the 2 final drive oils, and all the oils a Cub uses.
The trans oil level plug is low on the left side of the trans.

Sometimes tractor repair requires removing parts to repair them. Removing the final drive, cleaning the parts, and replacing the lining and oil seals is the best way to repair one.

Below are pics from TM Tractor of the 2 styles of housings and brakes.

http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gfi ... vecomp.htm

[Gary Dotson]

It's not the brake band that has moved but the drum has slid out of place on the shaft. You might as well bite the bullet and tear into it.

[Dale Finch]

I agree...if it has been off-centered for a while, the band material will probably be worn unevenly, and will most likely need replacing anyway. A good time to check everything out, and replace the final and differential seals, too. "JUST DO IT"...it's not that hard a job. Follow the HOW TO, and you'll be done in no time.

[57j2olds]

So if I understand you, you are saying that my drum has actually walked closer to the center of the tractor?

How does this happen?

Can I put a pry bar in the opening in the rear inspection area and manually slide the drum back to the left?

[Don McCombs]

There is a set screw that holds the drum in place. That, quite likely, has loosened or broken. You need to remove the final to tighten or replace it.

[Gary Dotson]

Also, if it's been floating around on the shaft for very long, you'll find the bore of the drum may be badly worn. It has to be a snug fit on the shaft.

[Slim140]

I agree...if it has been off-centered for a while, the band material will probably be worn unevenly, and will most likely need replacing anyway. A good time to check everything out, and replace the final and differential seals, too. "JUST DO IT"...it's not that hard a job. Follow the HOW TO, and you'll be done in no time.

There is a set screw that holds the drum in place. That, quite likely, has loosened or broken. You need to remove the final to tighten or replace it.

Also, if it's been floating around on the shaft for very long, you'll find the bore of the drum may be badly worn. It has to be a snug fit on the shaft.

Take these to heart, they aren't just telling you these things to cost you money, they are telling you to try and save you from doing the job twice.