Advice needed on getting French Farmall Cub FF up and going please.

[Cubfriend]

You are right Dale. I sure don’t want Liam to get the wrong nut. Thanks for catching that! I have found some online for sale. Just did a search with the part number and came up with a couple.

[Cubfriend]

Also the same part number that goes on the bottom of the steering pitman shaft.

[Don McCombs]

Frank, do you mean the castellated nut?

[Cubfriend]

Yes, As Dale pointed out it is castellated.

[Don McCombs]

Whoops. Somehow missed her post.

[IrishLiam]

Thanks as always. I should be able to find a replacement easily with that detail.

[IrishLiam]

Transmission is back together. Working on front end at the moment amongst other parts.
I and going to convert this cub to 12 volt system. I don't a 6 volt battery, regulator was rusty and broken. All lights were broken. I understand I won't be able to crank. That is ok. My aim is to revive this cub to be operational again instead of sitting in a heap and finding it's way to scrap heap. I getting there slowly. It may not be perfect at the end but I'm ok with that.
I just bought a Denso alternator on ebay and also the below coil. I then researched it more on this forum and it mentioned somewhere that I need a resistor somewhere in the line. Can someone explain what this is and give suggestions of what else to purchase.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361433177369

Front end housing was full of grease and all bolts were loose, previous owner had their own rough welding fix which didn't work. The pin beside the bolts in steering was missing allowing extra movement. I have made a replacement pin which will fit in snugly. I know from other posts most of you won't agree but I'm going to refill the steer housing with grease for now. This is how is was previously. I may change this at a later date when I get close to completing the tractor. Front axle is currently disassembled for a repair to the broken supports. I haven't looked for replacement radiator yet. Engine pistons and valve are all visibly working well on inspection under the head. Next job to do: get the 12volt conversion system sorted, change oil in engine, prime oil pump, clean carb, try start it, if sucessfull continue with radiator etc. I appreciate feedback on the resistor thing I need please.

[Bob McCarty]

Liam, The radiator that has been found to fit the best is made in Ireland by Clancy. If you can't track them down by name, I can see if there is info on the box I have.

[Glen]

Hi,
Good that you have the transmission together again.

I guess you meant you need a resistor for the alternator.
Some alternators need one in the wiring so the engine will shut off when you turn the ignition switch to off.
Without a resistor, the alternator power will keep the engine running with the switch off.
They sell 1 wire alternators here in USA that don't need a resistor.

If you have the bottom of the steering gear off, you could replace the bottom oil seal, clean out the grease, and put 90 wt gear oil in it.
The bushings might need replacing while it is apart too.

[Don McCombs]

Liam, The radiator that has been found to fit the best is made in Ireland by Clancy. If you can't track them down by name, I can see if there is info on the box I have.

I believe that they are in Limerick.

[IrishLiam]

The alternator I ordered today was from the USA on ebay.
NEW CHEVY MINI ALTERNATOR DENSO STREET ROD RACE 1-WIRE!
Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/153482135028

Is this a decent one or will I still need a resistor.

As for the radiator, someone had mentioned the Ireland supplier in the earlier days of this thread I have looked up their website before just waiting to get engine fired up first before enquiry more about the rad.

The steering casing, one thing I didn't mention was a tiny piece of one of the 5 bolts broke off at some stage before my time in the bottom of the threaded hole. I have tried to remove with an easy out but that also broke in the process. Doh! I could put in a short bolt in that slot but now you are after making feel guilty and will ask the guy who is doing the axel repair weld can he do anything to get it out.

When I have this tractor operational, I will probably just sitting around not doing very much. More as a trophy to myself for reviving it. So not wanting to do more than I really need to until I get it going and prove to myself that the trans rebuild holds up etc. I think it will be fine. Also apparently there is not much of a market for antique tractors at the moment here in Ireland. It is equally fun an stressful at times working on rusty old tractor. This been my first and could be my last. Lol. I'll dable with the other ones too in time but the farmall cub is my solo project. Interesting at the same time.

[Glen]

Hi,
The alternator says it uses 1 wire, and is self exciting, so I suppose it doesn't need an external resistor.

People have said on here that some of the replacement radiators don't fit right. Some are not tall enough, and the cap rubs on the hood when turning it.
Some people have had to return them.

People that post here have said the Clancy brand fits good.
Below is a listing for the Clancy radiator at TM Tractor, you can look at the pics.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/co/671fp.htm

Shane Nelson put one on a Cub a few months ago, and made a post with pics, maybe you can find it using the search, if you want to see it.

[Gary Dotson]

I believe the question of the resister is in regard to the new coil. The need for the resister depends on whether the new coil is an internal resister or not. If it's internal resister, no inline resister will be needed, if not, you will need to get an inline ballast resister. Here in the U.S. it's usually stated on the side of the coil.
In regard to the alternator, that is a dandy little unit which should work well with only the large wire connected. If it does not self excite, it's real easy to add a diode, from the coil to one of the small terminals on the alternator. (I don't remember off hand which terminal)

[Glen]

Hi,
If you meant a resistor for the coil, the resistor reduces 12 volts to 6 volts.
You could ask the seller if the coil is made to work on 12 volts with, or without a resistor.
It might be written on the coil, like Gary said above.

[Servicetune]

Hi Liam. I too am resurrecting a French Cub in Yorkshire. I have managed to get quite a few bits from Histoparts in Holland. They work out much cheaper than from the USA. They also cater for the French Cub which has many different parts from the American ones. Hope you are enjoying your rebuild. Andy.