Farmall Cub

I posted a few weeks ago about the Engine Rebuild we are doing. We just got the block from JP tractor Salvage today and I'm not sure how to proceed (SEE pictures below)
I am not sure if it is powder coating or paint. I'm gonna call tomorrow but I don't know what to do. It is on the bottom clamps that hold the crank shaft it is all over where the gaskets go for the oil pan, the front end and etc etc etc.

My question is do I need to clean all areas that have gaskets? How do I clean this off since it is inside some of the Crankshaft journals in the engine?

Thanks in Advance

Is that some sort of primer coating they dipped the block in?

I assume it is a shop primer that was applied to keep it from rusting as soon as it was degreased. As long as it is reasonably smooth, it should be OK on gasket surfaces etc. Any that is on critical machined surfaces should be cleaned off. By this I mean the areas of the block and bearing caps where the inserts contact, the shafts the oil pump gears fit on, etc. Clean the surface where the oil pump gasket touches the block as that surface affects pump gear clearance. The coating of paint is probably a benefit anywhere except the few places where it should be removed. It can probably be easily cleaned off with a rag and any common paint thinner.

Jim Becker wrote:I assume it is a shop primer that was applied to keep it from rusting as soon as it was degreased. As long as it is reasonably smooth, it should be OK on gasket surfaces etc. Any that is on critical machined surfaces should be cleaned off. By this I mean the areas of the block and bearing caps where the inserts contact, the shafts the oil pump gears fit on, etc. Clean the surface where the oil pump gasket touches the block as that surface affects pump gear clearance. The coating of paint is probably a benefit anywhere except the few places where it should be removed. It can probably be easily cleaned off with a rag and any common paint thinner.

I agree with Jim 100%

Hi,
I would also remove the paint from the front of the block where it bolts to the front end, and the rear of the block where it touches the clutch housing, so the electrical system can ground well.
Clean off the paint to match the surfaces that bolt to the block.
Remove the paint from the starter mounting area on the block, the starter has to ground there.
Remove the paint from where the generator mounting is too.

Thanks everybody. I talked with the guys at JP today and then hey said that I think I should higher quality poweder coating from a machine shop. They said it is ok with any gasket surfaces but I will need to clean the clamp for the crankshaft for sure. Thanks for the tips about grounding I did not think of that

The red splatter is on your camera lens, no? You might want to clean that off.

1954Frank wrote:The red splatter is on your camera lens, no? You might want to clean that off.

Didn't pay attention to that the first time I looked at these pictures, now I see it and I keep scrubbing and scrubbing my monitor and THEY WON"T GO AWAY!

krazzyman wrote:....... and then hey said that I think I should higher quality poweder coating from a machine shop. .......

I've tried and tried to figure out what this means. I'm stumped! I'm thinking it's something along the lines of "you shouldn't be expecting a quality powder coat job coming from a machine shop."

Sorry I'm typing this all out on my phone in the shop with oily hands. They said it is a high quality powder coating from the machine shop they work with so it is fine with gaskets.

Also my camera does have gunk inside but it still works for now!

Thanks
Ammon

That coating is a mixed blessing. I think that you will have to address many areas that our mentors mentioned. It depends how deep and tough it is. Perhaps you can get below it, to the machined surface, with a razor before it is fully cured.

From Wikipedia;
“Removing powder coating
Methylene chloride and acetone are generally effective at removing powder coating. Most other organic solvents (thinners, etc.) are completely ineffective. Recently the suspected human carcinogen methylene chloride is being replaced by benzyl alcohol with great success. Powder coating can also be removed with abrasive blasting. 98% sulfuric acid commercial grade also removes powder coating film.[citation needed] Certain low grade powder coats can be removed with steel wool, though this might be a more labor-intensive process than desired.”

If powder coating is done correctly, it is fully cured once it comes out of the oven.

I was in the powder industry for many years, powder turns back into liquid around 400 degrees, so myself I would not want it inside my engine, its great stuff but has its issues