Crankshaft pulley moved forward

The Cub Club -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
Forum rules
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
User avatar
rockfarmer
5+ Years
5+ Years
Posts: 511
Joined: Mon Apr 13, 2015 6:35 pm
Zip Code: 78633
Tractors Owned: 1947 Circle Cub
1948 Cub
1949 Cub (Rocky)
1950 Cub
1962 Cub
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward

Postby rockfarmer » Tue Jan 28, 2020 7:27 am

This may work.

680 Retaining Compound.pdf
(80.07 KiB) Downloaded 256 times

Cubfriend
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 988
Joined: Sat Jan 28, 2012 3:13 pm
Zip Code: 68803
Tractors Owned: 1948 Cub, Kittie; 1948 Cub, Harold; 1949 Cub, 49er; 1951 Cub, Tucker; 1951 Cub, Homely; 1956 Cub High Crop; 1957 Cub Loboy; 57 Cub Loboy w/fasthitch + 194 plow; 1958 Cub LoBoy w/FH, Popeye; 1961 Cub, Beater; #1-1962 Cub Loboy Dually (Originally Orange) w/Foot Throttle; #2-1962 Cub Loboy Dually (Originally Orange) w/Foot throttle; Yellow 1963 Cub Loboy and blade; 1970 Cub, Cubbie; and 5 other Cubs in various stages of disaasembly and disrepair; 1962 Cub Cadet Original; 2 other Cub Cadet Originals; Cub Cadet 100; Cub Cadet 124 w/Creeper; Cub Cadet 147; 2 Cub Cadet 129's; Cub Cadet 149; 1948 Allis Chalmers C w/single frontwheel; 1944 Farmall H w/Tokhiem Cab; 2 One Point Fasthitch Carriers; 2-#100 Fasthitch Rear Blade; 2 Sets Cub 144 Cultivators; 2 Sets Cub #252 Cultivators; 3 Cub #193 Mouldboard Plows; 1 Cub #193 Slatted Plow; 1 1948 Cub-54 Snow Plow; 3 Cub-54 49-5 Snow Plows; Cub #6 Tool Bar w/Disc Blades & Middlebuster. 2-#105 sickle mowers, #152 disc plow
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Grand Island, Nebraska

Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward

Postby Cubfriend » Tue Jan 28, 2020 10:15 am

I can’t imagine the crack in the pulley being any good for the seal. Along with being a place for oil to seep out during operation.
Frank

Clubless
5+ Years
5+ Years
Posts: 173
Joined: Wed Nov 04, 2015 5:43 pm
Zip Code: 27041
Tractors Owned: ---------
1948 Farmall Cub #56596
1950 Farmall Cub #101608
1950 Farmall Cub #106823
1955 Farmall Cub #188789
Location: NC, Pilot Mountain

Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward

Postby Clubless » Thu Jul 08, 2021 8:39 pm

Update on crankshaft pulley repair with Loc-tite product. I have used the cub to mow an acre lot last summer and so far this summer without any issue with pulley. Repair seems to be holding up well.

Gary

Matt Kirsch
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 4842
Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2004 3:04 pm
Zip Code: 14559
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Rochester, NY

Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward

Postby Matt Kirsch » Fri Jul 09, 2021 7:58 am

After reading the thread and seeing the crack, you can color me surprised that it held up.

Under normal circumstances you need a 12+ ton bottle jack to remove this pulley, so it's really on there. I have a broken pulley somewhere in my stash of scrap as a reminder of how much force it usually takes to get them off, and I CHEATED. I used an oxy-acetylene torch to heat the pulley and STILL broke it. For it to come off in your hands like this, it was REALLY loose...

A new pulley was like $35 at the time. They're about $50 now. Seeing that crack I would not have hesitated to buy a new pulley.

You might need this tidbit of advice in the future. When I installed my new pulley, I put it in the oven on its lowest setting (200F) for an hour. This will not damage the new oil seal in any way. The oil gets that hot when the tractor is working hard. Lube up the seal good, put on your oven mitts, grab the pulley, and head straight to the tractor. The pulley will slide most of the way on, but you may need to whack it with a hammer and block of wood a couple of times.

Jim Becker
Team Cub
Team Cub
Posts: 16433
Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:59 pm
Zip Code: 55319
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: MN

Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward

Postby Jim Becker » Fri Jul 09, 2021 10:53 am

Matt Kirsch wrote:. . . You might need this tidbit of advice in the future. When I installed my new pulley, I put it in the oven on its lowest setting (200F) for an hour. This will not damage the new oil seal in any way. The oil gets that hot when the tractor is working hard. Lube up the seal good, put on your oven mitts, grab the pulley, and head straight to the tractor. The pulley will slide most of the way on, but you may need to whack it with a hammer and block of wood a couple of times.

My inclination on this process is to have a piece of all-thread bottomed out in the end of the crankshaft. Have the appropriate heavy flat washer and hex nut handy. Use the nut to finish seating the pulley. (Obviously, either method will work.)

tst
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 4691
Joined: Tue Jan 12, 2010 2:08 pm
Zip Code: 12514
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward

Postby tst » Fri Jul 09, 2021 11:42 am

Using a hammer to drive the pulley on is not a good idea, we have all done it, you are now pounding the crankshaft and can damage the thrust bearing lips, I have seen several of these damaged, cracked etc while doing rebuilds

Matt Kirsch
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 4842
Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2004 3:04 pm
Zip Code: 14559
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Rochester, NY

Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward

Postby Matt Kirsch » Fri Jul 09, 2021 1:26 pm

tst wrote:Using a hammer to drive the pulley on is not a good idea, we have all done it, you are now pounding the crankshaft and can damage the thrust bearing lips, I have seen several of these damaged, cracked etc while doing rebuilds


If you've got to hit it that hard you're doing something wrong. It just takes too long to thread the nut on to an all thread to pull it on the rest of the way. By the time you get to tightening, the heat has transferred and you've lost the advantage of warming the pulley in the first place.


  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Return to “Farmall Cub”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bill Hudson, Cubfriend and 5 guests