Crankshaft pulley moved forward

[rockfarmer]

This may work.

680 Retaining Compound.pdf

(80.07 KiB) Downloaded 256 times

[Cubfriend]

I can’t imagine the crack in the pulley being any good for the seal. Along with being a place for oil to seep out during operation.

[Clubless]

Update on crankshaft pulley repair with Loc-tite product. I have used the cub to mow an acre lot last summer and so far this summer without any issue with pulley. Repair seems to be holding up well.

Gary

[Matt Kirsch]

After reading the thread and seeing the crack, you can color me surprised that it held up.

Under normal circumstances you need a 12+ ton bottle jack to remove this pulley, so it's really on there. I have a broken pulley somewhere in my stash of scrap as a reminder of how much force it usually takes to get them off, and I CHEATED. I used an oxy-acetylene torch to heat the pulley and STILL broke it. For it to come off in your hands like this, it was REALLY loose...

A new pulley was like $35 at the time. They're about $50 now. Seeing that crack I would not have hesitated to buy a new pulley.

You might need this tidbit of advice in the future. When I installed my new pulley, I put it in the oven on its lowest setting (200F) for an hour. This will not damage the new oil seal in any way. The oil gets that hot when the tractor is working hard. Lube up the seal good, put on your oven mitts, grab the pulley, and head straight to the tractor. The pulley will slide most of the way on, but you may need to whack it with a hammer and block of wood a couple of times.

[Jim Becker]

. . . You might need this tidbit of advice in the future. When I installed my new pulley, I put it in the oven on its lowest setting (200F) for an hour. This will not damage the new oil seal in any way. The oil gets that hot when the tractor is working hard. Lube up the seal good, put on your oven mitts, grab the pulley, and head straight to the tractor. The pulley will slide most of the way on, but you may need to whack it with a hammer and block of wood a couple of times.

My inclination on this process is to have a piece of all-thread bottomed out in the end of the crankshaft. Have the appropriate heavy flat washer and hex nut handy. Use the nut to finish seating the pulley. (Obviously, either method will work.)

[tst]

Using a hammer to drive the pulley on is not a good idea, we have all done it, you are now pounding the crankshaft and can damage the thrust bearing lips, I have seen several of these damaged, cracked etc while doing rebuilds

[Matt Kirsch]

Using a hammer to drive the pulley on is not a good idea, we have all done it, you are now pounding the crankshaft and can damage the thrust bearing lips, I have seen several of these damaged, cracked etc while doing rebuilds

If you've got to hit it that hard you're doing something wrong. It just takes too long to thread the nut on to an all thread to pull it on the rest of the way. By the time you get to tightening, the heat has transferred and you've lost the advantage of warming the pulley in the first place.