Crankshaft pulley moved forward

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Clubless
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Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward

Postby Clubless » Mon Apr 29, 2019 8:27 pm

Jim,

I've never used any Lock-tite products before so I'm not sure which of their products would be best suited for this application. I goggled Lock-tite and I see a number of products on their website along with some YouTube videos on how to use the products, but still uncertain which would be best.

Based on what I seen on internet, I'm thinking maybe this one (#680).
https://www.bigmachineparts.com/product ... gK5uPD_BwE

Or perhaps this one (#620).
https://www.emisupply.com/catalog/locti ... Mej5U3sbIU

Would like some opinions on which product I should get.

Thanks,
Gary

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Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward

Postby Glen » Mon Apr 29, 2019 8:40 pm

Hi,
You could buy another front pulley, and see if it fits normally, which is so tight that you would need to remove the front end off the engine, and use a pulley installing method shown in one of the posts on here, or in the Cub service manual, to install it.

Below is a pic from TM Tractor of the front of the crankshaft. The pulley goes on until it hits the gear, maybe you knew already. The key is not visible in the pic. :)
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Cub crankshaft 1.jpg

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Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward

Postby Gary Dotson » Tue Apr 30, 2019 7:54 am

Am I the only one who can see that crack at the edge of the keyway? I think there is no other route except to replace the pulley. It's hard to say if your crank is worn as a result of the cracked pulley, but it's worth a try to get another pulley and see if it fits as it's supposed to.

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Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward

Postby Eugene » Tue Apr 30, 2019 8:08 am

New pulley. Pulley is cracked along side the key way.

Gary said that.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward

Postby Slim140 » Tue Apr 30, 2019 8:12 am

Pulley is cracked, badly, like Gary said.
Attachments
InkedPulley_1_LI.jpg
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Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward

Postby Jim Becker » Tue Apr 30, 2019 10:01 am

Gary Dotson wrote:Am I the only one who can see that crack at the edge of the keyway? I think there is no other route except to replace the pulley. It's hard to say if your crank is worn as a result of the cracked pulley, but it's worth a try to get another pulley and see if it fits as it's supposed to.

I certainly didn't look close enough to see it. Once pointed out, even I can see it. Your recommendation is the right way to go.

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Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward

Postby Cubfriend » Tue Apr 30, 2019 10:07 am

Cubfriend wrote:Does the pulley appear to have a speedy sleeve on it? I question if the pulley has cracked along the keyway slot to loosen the interference fit?


I thought it could have a crack if it was loose.
Frank

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Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward

Postby Clubless » Tue Apr 30, 2019 12:27 pm

I am always amazed how much detail you guys gleam from pictures. :worthy:

Frank, you were right-on with your suspicions of cracked pulley along the keyway. Sorry I reported there was "no crack". Gary, thanks for picking out the crack by looking closely at the pictures. You guys are the best!

I can purchase a new "aftermarket" pulley online for about $50 plus shipping or a used IH pulley for about the same price. Would you guys go with the new pulley or find a IH pulley?

I hope to use a friend's caliper to measure the crankshaft today. I'll let you know what we come up with.

I will need to find thread on "how to install fan pulley" once I get replacement pulley, along with information on how to remove front-end.

I appreciate all the help and will continue to update any progress made.

Gary
:tractor:

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Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward

Postby Clubless » Fri May 10, 2019 11:08 pm

Would it be possible to install replacement pulley without removing front end?

I can insert threaded rod through hand crank slot into end of crankshaft and go from there.


7B7CAC0F-3D1D-433E-8261-303972A8DB56.jpeg

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Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward

Postby Dale Finch » Fri May 10, 2019 11:55 pm

You might consider reacing the front seal, while you have the pulley off, if you haven't already. You don't want to have to do this all over again to replace that seal! That involves removing the front engine cover, to access the seal. According to the manual, you don't tighten down the front engine cover until AFTER the pulley is installed, to ensure the cover, and thus the seal, are centered on the pulley shaft. So I think it would be rather difficult to do that without removing the front end.
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Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward

Postby Jeff Silvey » Sat May 11, 2019 10:05 am

Good eye Gary. Replace pulley.
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Clubless
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Joined: Wed Nov 04, 2015 5:43 pm
Zip Code: 27041
Tractors Owned: ---------
1948 Farmall Cub #56596
1950 Farmall Cub #101608
1950 Farmall Cub #106823
1955 Farmall Cub #188789
Location: NC, Pilot Mountain

Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward

Postby Clubless » Mon Jan 27, 2020 8:39 pm

Sorry I did not follow up on this thread regarding the crank pulley.

I choose to follow the path of least resistance and applied a Loc-tite product designed for “press fit” applications.

I have not used the tractor much since doing the repair, but so far so good. I’ll let y’all know if and when it fails.

Gary

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Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward

Postby tst » Mon Jan 27, 2020 8:50 pm

if the pulley keeps moving you could damage the crankshaft keyway, replacing the pulley is a lot cheaper than taking a engine apart to replace the crankshaft and a lot less work

Clubless
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Tractors Owned: ---------
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1950 Farmall Cub #106823
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Location: NC, Pilot Mountain

Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward

Postby Clubless » Mon Jan 27, 2020 11:51 pm

Tst,
If pulley moves forward again, I will replace with a new one.

Thanks for your words of wisdom.

Gary

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Re: Crankshaft pulley moved forward

Postby BigBill » Tue Jan 28, 2020 12:14 am

I would drill and tap the end of the crankshaft using a 1/2”-20 or 5/8”-18 fine thread. Get a heavy duty flatwasher and lock washer. If the pulley is loose on the crank mic it. The 620 loc tite will take up .015” clearance. Clean the surface, loc tite it, assemble and torque the bolt and forget about it.

I tested the 620 cylinderical loc tite on a 8” tapered shaft on a dynamometer and the shaft was buggered up and questionable. I filed and sanded the rough spots by hand and used the 620 loc tite. That was decades ago. There is cylinderiCal loc tite and thread locker loc tite don’t mix them up.

While working for the engineering group we went to loc tite school they gave us a seminar.

Another way to secure it is to Dutchman it. But you will need the bolt anyway.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.


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