Two quick questions: brakes and throttle

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MikeEyre74
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Two quick questions: brakes and throttle

Postby MikeEyre74 » Thu Apr 11, 2019 8:17 am

First question, I noticed that on my throttle lever I am about two clicks away from all the way close to the operator and I can move about seven clicks forward out of about 11 in total for the entire throw of my throttle, but you just can’t push it all the way forward, it just won’t go . It idles around 750 RPM and will run full open at just over 1700 RPM. Is that normal to have that travel extra on either end not being used, or should the throttle be adjusted to give more of the fine-tune over the full distance of the quadrant?

Second question: On my left brake, the one that was chattering like mad before, that seems to of cleared itself up… But now it is smooth but not very strong. It’s enough to turn the steering wheel by it self when moving along if you hit the left pedal it’ll pull it in that direction, but not like the right pedal where it can lock the whole tire right up easily and is easy enough to modulate. Does that mean my left brake is not strong enough, or is my right brake over reacting and is on my left brake, the one that was chattering like mad before, that seems to have cleared itself up… But now it is smooth but not very strong. It’s enough to turn the steering wheel by itself when moving along if you hit the left pedal it’ll pull it in that direction, but not like the right pedal where it can lock the whole tire right up easily and is easy enough to modulate. I am assuming that there is something going on that needs to be addressed in my left brake?
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Waif
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Re: Two quick questions: brakes and throttle

Postby Waif » Thu Apr 11, 2019 8:47 am

Throttle range is normal for YOUR tractor.
Multiple factors and adjustments ,but each change will cause another change....
I have one that has a short range (compared to if the whole quadrant was usable from lowest tooth to highest) that could use another lower notch.

After checking that all linkage is free and adjusted after carburetor removal and reinstalled (adjustments per Cub manual) , I just leave it alone.
If you have full range from idle to high speed ,why fight it?

Your left brake is damaged,worn, or something is out of place.
The previous operator(s) may have used it to help turn left a lot too. (Nascar racing maybe?) Winnowing or some other routine with a left turning habit. Who knows?

There is an adjustment linkage. You could check the left and see if you can tighten it.
The link below has a couple comments , a search may find more...

viewtopic.php?t=94317

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Re: Two quick questions: brakes and throttle

Postby Urbish » Thu Apr 11, 2019 9:06 am

It's possible that the left brake is soaked in gear oil, or the brake drum is walking laterally on the shaft. Use a borescope or good flashlight to get a look in there and see what is going on. See if you have any lining material left. If greasy, a good soaking in carb or brake cleaner may improve function. If you're handy, new brake linings can be attached to the old bands. You can also buy new brake band assemblies, but they cost.
Jim

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Glen
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Re: Two quick questions: brakes and throttle

Postby Glen » Thu Apr 11, 2019 5:16 pm

Hi,
There is usually 1 or 2 notches at each end of the throttle quadrant that are not used, the lever won't go to them.
You could connect a test tachometer to the engine, and slow down the low idle speed some. It is supposed to be about 500 RPM.
The speed adjustment screw is at the top area of the carburetor, on the engine side.
Below is a pic from TM Tractor showing the engine side of the IH carb, it is the small screw with the spring.

You could look in the holes in the final drive casting and see if the brake looks normal, or has oil on it, like was said above. There should be no oil in the brake areas.
Leaking oil seals can let oil get on the brakes.

The left side of a Cub has more weight than the right side. Usually the left rear wheel will not lock up with the brake, as easy as the right rear wheel. :)
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Cub carb.jpg

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MikeEyre74
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Re: Two quick questions: brakes and throttle

Postby MikeEyre74 » Thu Apr 11, 2019 8:08 pm

Regarding the above pic, I don't have an IH carburetor. I have a replacement Zenith and it doesn't have that screw... It also doesn't seem to want to idle at any less than about 750-ish either or it'll stall. I got caught up in hard work and didn't get a chance to crawl under there yet and look at the brakes. I'll get to that tomorrow ho.
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Re: Two quick questions: brakes and throttle

Postby Glen » Thu Apr 11, 2019 11:14 pm

Hi,
I looked at your other post again.
Below is a pic from TM Tractor of a Zenith carburetor. It has an idle speed adjustment screw.
The pic from the Cub parts manual, that I posted in your other post has the screw also, it is number 11 in the pic.
The idle mixture screw might need adjusting, it needs to be set to where the engine runs best at low speed, when warmed up. Usually that is 1 to 1 1/2 turn open.
If the engine won't run right at slow speed, the carb might be plugged some, and need cleaning. :)
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Cub carb Z 4.jpg

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MikeEyre74
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Re: Two quick questions: brakes and throttle

Postby MikeEyre74 » Fri Apr 12, 2019 7:46 pm

Well, I crawled under there and took a look through the tiny holes in the housing, front and rear, to see what I could see and I saw the brake band inside there just fine and it appears to be dry… It also appears to be surrounded by a mouse nest or seven. Do you think that’s enough to be causing this problem?
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Re: Two quick questions: brakes and throttle

Postby Jim Becker » Fri Apr 12, 2019 8:11 pm

Any place that has been inhabited by mice typically has a lot of rust or other corrosion caused by what the mice leave behind. Rust, and then rust that has been partly rubbed off by using the brake, can cause your exact symptoms. Leaving that trash in there will just let things get worse. I would encourage you to take it apart enough to clean out the mouse remains. You may find cleaning out the space, removing rust from the brake drum, and cleaning rust particles out of the brake lining is an adequate repair. You will want to inspect everything while it is open and replace things as needed.

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Re: Two quick questions: brakes and throttle

Postby Glen » Fri Apr 12, 2019 8:27 pm

Hi,
Good that the brakes look dry, and no oil there.
When you look in from the front or rear, the brake band should be centered on the brake drum. Sometimes the drum comes loose, and moves to the side, on the shaft, so only part of the lining is running on the drum.
It's better if there isn't rust at the brake, like Jim said above.
Below is a post about removing a final drive, and repairing a brake. You can see what it looks like, and how to do the job.

viewtopic.php?f=142&t=78436

There is another oil seal in the final drive, near the brake, that should be replaced if you remove a final drive. :)

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Re: Two quick questions: brakes and throttle

Postby Waif » Fri Apr 12, 2019 8:41 pm

I had to pull numerous chicken feathers and misc. out of one housing... (Not from my previous chickens , but some previous owner's..)

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MikeEyre74
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Re: Two quick questions: brakes and throttle

Postby MikeEyre74 » Sat Apr 13, 2019 5:18 am

Yeah, it doesn’t look like there’s any oil, and it looked to me, as far as I could tell, that the break band was on the drum where it was supposed to be. The only thing that looked odd was all of the material that the mouse had pulled in there. I sort of just wonder if the mouse pulled in a bunch of nylon thread‘s or something like that and is causing the band to slip on that material between the band and the drum? I have to see if I can get in there and clean that out better and maybe I can fix the problem without too much fuss.
Standard F-Cub, 1949
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MikeEyre74
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Re: Two quick questions: brakes and throttle

Postby MikeEyre74 » Sun Apr 14, 2019 7:18 am

Well I pulled the wheel and assembly off the side and got out all of the mouse nest. There was a bunch of general goop in there as well and that was all cleaned out with brake clean and the air gun. After putting it all back together, my first test drive showed that the brakes chattered something fierce, but they would lock up on that side without much effort what I wanted them to. A few minutes later, the chattering stopped, and then a few minutes after that I couldn’t get them to fully lock up anymore and then they felt just like they did before I took it apart. It has pretty good braking ability, so maybe I won’t mess with it anymore, but if there are any other ideas, I’m open to them. At least it’s very easy to get into the brake assembly and check things out.
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