Clutch Replacement

[Eugene]

Welcome. Since you have two posts you can down load and copy the manuals, "quick links", upper left of this page.

Next issue, use the search function, top right of this page. Many topics have been previously answered.

OK. I now understand that the graphite doesn't spin in its housing. But now I'm uncertain about where the grease goes. Does it just penetrate the graphite and lube between the graphite and the pressure plate?

And why do you say the "cheapest grease available"? My cheapest grease would be that which is already on my shelf.

The people on here recommend soaking a new throwout bearing in light motor oil for a day, before putting it in, and grease the grease fitting with cheap grease also, so the oil in the grease absorbs into the graphite.

Cheap grease = no additives, just plain old inexpensive grease. The idea is that the graphite absorbs the grease and then provides a lubricant between the throw out bearing and pressure plate fingers.

Using cheap grease, grease the throw out bearing until grease comes out the hole in top. Every 6 months or so, another shot of cheap grease.

[DonMountain]

I finally started taking apart my Cub Lo-Boy to see what I need to replace on my clutch. I have the tank/cover off, disconnected choke rod, disconnected hydraulic tubes after draining the reservoir all over the floor mostly? And I just now took off the steering wheel bracket clamp. I don't see how the steering wheel will pass by the support bracket as I separate the bell-housing from the engine? Do I need to take the steering wheel off the steering rod? Or unbolt the bracket from the top of the drive-shaft casting? Or do I take the plate off the steering gear in the front above the axel?

[Glen]

Hi,
If the steering wheel won't go past the support pipe when you split the Cub, you could take off the steering wheel, but they can be tight from rust.
Some of them it's easier to remove the shaft. Take out the 2 bolts at the bottom end of the shaft, and turn the steering wheel, and the shaft and small gear will come up out of the housing.
Turn it slowly, the gasket might be stuck, you might be able to use a knife and get the gasket loose, so it all comes off in one piece. But a new gasket is better.
There is probably a washer on the end of the shaft, don't lose it. It might stay in the housing and fall out of place. Be sure it is in place before putting it together again.

Below is a page from the Cub service manual showing the gear on the shaft. The washers are number 4 in the first pic. They are talking about other things on the page.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... -03-11.jpg

[Dale Finch]

I did a split about a month ago by myself, and was able to muscle the steering wheel past the support post, but it wasn't real easy. My cubs' steering wheels have all been off in recent years, so it wouldn't have been that difficult...I was just being lazy! If yours hasn't been off recently, as Glen said, it can be a bear!!

[Dale Finch]

Oh, don't forget to put wedges between the front axle and the bolster on each side. It'll keep the engine half from flopping to one side, and aid in aligning the 2 halves during reassembly.

[DonMountain]

After reading all the comments above, I decided that it was easier to just unbolt the steering wheel support pipe from the top of the driveshaft casting. I didn't want to complicate the tear-down with buying new gaskets and parts for the steering gear. So, my next question is, I put a jackstand under the rear of the engine oil pan closest to the clutch, and shimmed it up enough to take the load. And I have a large transmission jack up under the driveshaft housing just back of the clutch, and was planning to unbolt the bell housing/engine connection and roll the rear of the tractor back on the wheels of the transmission jack. Is there any danger of this being unbalanced and the front end tipping over frontwards or the rear tipping over backwards? And yes, I have the wedges installed over the front axel.