New to me Cub with some issues..

[MikeEyre74]

Hey folks!

I picked up a 1949 Cub the other day that had a seized engine. I got it home and freed it up and got a few parts for the magneto and got some spark... I’ve yet to get it started tho, as I’m trying to figure out a fuel issue. Took the carburetor apart and cleaned it up and it seems serviceable, but.. I need some more time with that.

It looks like it has a Wico XH mag on it and a Zenith carburetor. There’s no I’d numbers on the carburetor itself tho. Looks like a Model 68 by some pictures that I saw online and in here. Looks like it needs a cable choke to work that aspect, yes? It has a bracket on the side to hold the cable. Oddly, the carburetor is so big, I can’t remove the oil level dipstick to check the oil with the carburetor in place. Is that normal for these?

[tst]

that is a zenith carb, it was a replacement for the IH carb your tractor started life out with, yes it uses a cable for the choke, you can mount the original arm on the choke shaft also that was used by the IH carb, some like them, others prefer the IH carb, the later cubs had a different oil fill tube but they were tight to get the dipstick out, most mags on the cub were a J4 type

[Eugene]

Welcome.

The Wico magneto is not "standard" for a Farmall Cub. Need to identify the magneto and it's lag angle. Guessing the lag angle is incorrect for a Cub.

The carburetor is not the correct one for a 49 Cub. You should be able to remove the oil filler/dip stick without removing the carburetor. The 49 Cub would have had an IH carburetor. Zenith carburetors were used on many Farmall models and later Cubs.

Prime the oil pump, first thing, absolutely necessary. Then conduct compression tests before going any further.

[Jim Becker]

I believe the Wico XH has an adjustable lag angle. Presumably, whoever put it on set the lag angle to 13 degrees. In any case, this won't make any difference in getting the engine started. The easiest way to verify the lag angle setting would be to check the timing with a timing light after it is running.

[Donegal Cub]

Check for coolant, oil, fresh gasoline, spark at plugs, clean carb, clean points and set, prime oil pump and see how it goes from there. Others with more knowledge than I will chime in.
Bernard,
Donegal Cub.

[Dale Finch]

I have Zeniths on 2 of my 4 cubs, and it IS tight getting the dipstick out...one is easier than the other since it has the longer tube and dipstick. Both my Zeniths have the choke lever (same as on the IH carb) and use the original choke rod, not a cable like later ones. Just might take some time to get the lever adjusted to the correct position...pretty much pointing down, and the fuel line up a bit to keep out of the way.
Here is one from TM Tractors (forum sponsor):
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/fl/522fp.htm
And here is one from Steiners:
https://antique-tractor-parts.steinertractor.com/search?w=Cub%20choke%20lever

[Glen]

Hi,
Below is the 1949 Cub owner's manual, the experts on here recommend people read it. It has lots of info about operation, maintenance, and lubrication. There is a table of contents on page 1.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

Below is a page from the Cub parts manual showing the Wico magneto, if you need it.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 012-24.jpg

Below are pics from TM Tractor of the original style IH carburetor, and gas line.
The last pic shows the choke lever, on the engine side of the carb, for the original style choke rod. It usually has to be facing about down when the choke is fully open.

The 2nd and 3rd pics below show the choke rod's position. It goes above the Touch Control tubes also. Your choke rod may be bent wrong, and need re bending.

Not sure if you have the gas line for the Zenith carb, it's not in your pic above. There aren't many pics of it on here that I have seen, just in the Cub owner's manual for 1975 and newer Cubs, which is what the Zenith carb was originally used on. The pic is sort of small.
The Zenith carb was originally used on Cubs with the longer oil dipstick and tube. The 1st pic below shows the longer dipstick and tube.

[MikeEyre74]

Thanks for that information, fellows. I would not have thought to prime the tractor before it’s first startup, but that makes sense since who knows how long that’s been... presumably many years, by the looks of things.

Since this is not the original carburetor, it now makes sense why I do not have the hard metal fuel line... they must have been running a piece of rubber hose from the tank to the carburetor in Lieu of that.

My tractor has the short neck dipstick tube, and that is probably what is causing my issue with the interference and checking the oil level. I will look closer at this issue to see if there is maybe some workaround for it

Due to illness, I have not been able to look at the tractor much for the past week, but I should be able to get around to it tomorrow. I think our plan will be to prime the oil pump, and then drag the tractor with another tractor to pop start it so we can save our arms from all of that cranking. I think there is a bit of junk trapped in and underneath the valves lowering my compressio I think our plan will be to prime the oil pump, and then drag the tractor with another tractor to pop start it so we can save our arms from all of that cranking. I think there is a bit of junk trapped in and underneath the valves preventing me from getting a good seal on the valves so perhaps that will loosen it up a bit until it starts and blows that all out the door. All after pulling apart the carburetor again and freeing up what I think is a stuck needle valve in there. I’m just not getting any fuel into the bowl...

[Don McCombs]

If you haven’t already done so, there is a mesh screen on the carburetor end of the brass 90 degree elbow where the fuel line attaches. Check that for debris.

[MikeEyre74]

I did check that, thanks. it’s a little bent but otherwise intact and clear.

[Glen]

Hi,
Below is a post where I wrote about priming the engine oil pump. It is part way down the page.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=91765&start=60

If the engine isn't getting gas to run, the main jet in the carburetor might be plugged, and need cleaning.
Below is a pic of a Zenith carb from TM Tractor, the jet is under the 6 sided plug at the rear, bottom, of the carb.

Below is a page from the Cub service manual, showing how to set the float height for the Zenith carb, in the lower pics.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 002-09.jpg

Below are pages from the Cub parts manual of the Zenith carb, if you need them.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 012-14.jpg

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 012-15.jpg

[Jim Becker]

. . . and then drag the tractor with another tractor . . .

I recommend that you run the tow chain back under the tractor to the drawbar. Attaching to the front axle makes it easy to yank the front end off.

[MikeEyre74]

Good news, folks!

By following the advice here, we used a chain to tow the tractor via rear end, not the front axle, and eventually we got it running… A bit. Turns out it was running on two and sometimes three of the cylinders. After pulling the side cover, we found a couple of lifters that were stuck in the bores, and after getting those freed up she started to run like a top. Now, everything works good. The choke linkage is still a disaster with this zenith carburetor, but we figured out a quick workaround and managed to even get her to start by the hand crank, since I don’t have a 6 V battery handy.

The left brake chatters and makes a terrible noise like a son of a gun, it’s quite a racket, so I’m not sure what’s going on there yet, but that’s a project for tomorrow or the next day. The right side brake is very quiet and works like a champ.

The front main engine seal is also pretty much running like a water faucet, so that will need to get repaired sooner than later. But hey, it’s a runner!

[Glen]

Hi,
Good that you got the Cub to run. Stuck valves can happen when a Cub sits. They need freeing, with penetrating oil, like you did evidently.

[Scrivet]

........
The front main engine seal is also pretty much running like a water faucet, so that will need to get repaired sooner than later. But hey, it’s a runner!

I suggest reading up on how to safely remove that pulley without damage before starting the task, if you're not familiar with doing it. A three jaw gear puller is NOT the answer.