Brush hog mounting; correctly.

[AndrewSpencer]

I have those mornings where I feel like I need adult supervision!

So hopefully, you all can keep me pointed in the correct direction.

Working on a 1953 Cub with the woods brush hog.
The bolt holes on the mower are 1"
The bolt holes on the draw bar are .65"
The current bolts are 5/8-11 x 1 1/2" (5/8 = .625)
With fender washers that are 1 3/4" OD x .15" thick.

The bolts are pretty badly worn and the current bushings that go through the mower rotate on the mower not the bolt.
My thinking is to get better bushings that can either be welded in or are a better press fit for the mower.

I am looking for a really good long term solution that we can all adopt.

Thanks!

Andrew

[inairam]

It may be best to post some photos of the mower. Are you talking about a mid section belly mower like a woods 42 or a tow behind woods bush hog mower?

A belly mower has nothing to do with the draw bar and A cub does not have to power to run a woods 5' tow behind nor are the splines and rotation on the PTO correct

[AndrewSpencer]

Sorry, pictures shortly. Belly woods mower and I am trying to source everything from mcmaster.

[Eugene]

1" x 5/8" steel bushings, local hardware store or nearest tractor dealership.

[inairam]

in addition to the bushing with a woods 42 i like using lock nuts and jam nuts. I have found lock washers do not do a great job with the vibration. https://www.mcmaster.com/nuts/locknuts/ ... bration-9/

here are the parts list the bolts are described it may be of help https://www.messicks.com/wo/95176

[Dale Finch]

#8 in the above Messick's link:
https://www.messicks.com/wo/95176
 5/8 x 1 x 7/16 Heat treated sleeve

[Jim Becker]

. . .
The bolts are pretty badly worn and the current bushings that go through the mower rotate on the mower not the bolt.
My thinking is to get better bushings that can either be welded in or are a better press fit for the mower.

Without a picture of exactly what you are dealing with, this could be wrong. But I would guess the bushings are intended to be clamped tight by the bolt so the mower will pivot on the bushing. I tight fit of the mower on the bushing would be wrong.

[tldec50]

. . .
The bolts are pretty badly worn and the current bushings that go through the mower rotate on the mower not the bolt.
My thinking is to get better bushings that can either be welded in or are a better press fit for the mower.

Without a picture of exactly what you are dealing with, this could be wrong. But I would guess the bushings are intended to be clamped tight by the bolt so the mower will pivot on the bushing. I tight fit of the mower on the bushing would be wrong.

The bushings on my bush hog 412 are tight fit with the bolt and the mower rotates on the bushing.I have a woods with the same setup,

[AndrewSpencer]

Sorry, today I got carried away getting the AC working on the car and it still isn't done so no pictures. But I think we are all on the same page with order of operation and what is going on.
What I can not understand is why the bushing (consumable) would not wear against the bolt (consumable and easily replaceable) rather than the mower arms (less replaceable). Am I missing something?

Thanks!
Andrew

[Jim Becker]

The bushing isn't there so much as a wear item as it is there to provide a freely moving pivot point. If the bushing were tight in the mower arms, it would need to rotate as the mower moves. Without another (longer) bushing inside it, it would be bound tight as the bolt was tightened. Something has to allow movement.

[inairam]

The bushing isn't there so much as a wear item as it is there to provide a freely moving pivot point. If the bushing were tight in the mower arms, it would need to rotate as the mower moves. Without another (longer) bushing inside it, it would be bound tight as the bolt was tightened. Something has to allow movement.

This is important. The bolts have to tighten against something. The spacer/ bushing being slightly wide helps provide a space and allows for a pivot point for the deck.