Wiring help
- Thread starter Gino56
- Start date
Hi,
Thanks for the pictures.
The 2 wires that are looping up above the top of the dash need changing, the hood and gas tank will hit them where they are now. Loosen or remove the screws at the ends of them, and turn them so they loop down. All the wires should be so they don't hit the bottom of the gas tank.
Be sure the wires aren't against the throttle rod, the rod moves and can wear into the wires.
It looks like it has the 3 position light switch, used on Cubs serial number 115403 and above, until serial number 210000. The light switch is 1/4 turn off from where it should be. The dimmer coil of wire on it should be at the upper right. I don't know where the knob is turned. For D, or Dim, the knob pointer should be straight up.
There is a notch in the dash, and a tab made on the Delco switch, so the switch fits one way in the dash.
If your Cub is above serial number 115403, there is supposed to be a fuse holder in the bottom hole in the dash. There isn't anything in the hole. The fuse is for the lights. TM Tractor Parts has a new fuse holder.
Below is a picture from TM Tractor Parts of the 3 position switch turned to the right position.
Thanks for the pictures.
The 2 wires that are looping up above the top of the dash need changing, the hood and gas tank will hit them where they are now. Loosen or remove the screws at the ends of them, and turn them so they loop down. All the wires should be so they don't hit the bottom of the gas tank.
Be sure the wires aren't against the throttle rod, the rod moves and can wear into the wires.
It looks like it has the 3 position light switch, used on Cubs serial number 115403 and above, until serial number 210000. The light switch is 1/4 turn off from where it should be. The dimmer coil of wire on it should be at the upper right. I don't know where the knob is turned. For D, or Dim, the knob pointer should be straight up.
There is a notch in the dash, and a tab made on the Delco switch, so the switch fits one way in the dash.
If your Cub is above serial number 115403, there is supposed to be a fuse holder in the bottom hole in the dash. There isn't anything in the hole. The fuse is for the lights. TM Tractor Parts has a new fuse holder.
Below is a picture from TM Tractor Parts of the 3 position switch turned to the right position.
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The 2 wires that are looping up above the top of the dash need changing, the hood and gas tank will hit them where they are now. Loosen or remove the screws at the ends of them, and turn them so they loop down. All the wires should be so they don't hit the bottom of the gas tank.
Good advice. In adfdition, all wires should loop down whenever possible. We call it a drip loop. Any fluids that get on the wires (rain, hydraulic, fuel etc...) will run down the loop and drip off and not get into components.
Good advice. In adfdition, all wires should loop down whenever possible. We call it a drip loop. Any fluids that get on the wires (rain, hydraulic, fuel etc...) will run down the loop and drip off and not get into components.
Hi Glen good to hear from you, Happy New Year. I can’t let you get away yet. Other than the changes you stated, will the existing wiring set up work? Also a wiring schematic you sent me does not involve the pull out dash switch. I’ll see if I can find more info, don’t be surprised if I send a picture of the other end of the harness. Thanks
I can't see from here if the wiring is connected the right way, so everything works right. You will need to look at it there. Check each wire using the wiring diagram, and see where both ends of each wire go. They should be different color wires, that helps make it easier to trace them.
In a post in 2024 you said the Cub is serial number 84246. That is a 1949 Cub. All 1949 Cubs came with a magneto. In a picture you posted, it shows yours has been changed to a Battery Ignition unit.
Some Cubs were changed to Battery Ignition, it is newer than a magneto. IH had a package of parts to change them to Battery Ignition.
The magneto used a 4 position charge and light switch, it controlled the charge rate, and the lights. The Battery Ignition uses a 3 position switch, which is only for the lights.
Your picture in 2024 doesn't show what generator it has, the gen is not there in the picture.
I don't know if it is 6 volts, and has a gen, or someone has changed it to 12 volts, and has put on an alternator.
Below are wiring diagrams for Cubs.
The 1st diagram is for Cubs serial number 115402 and below.
The 2nd diagram is for Cubs serial number 115403 to 210000.
They can have parts from both systems, when people change parts through the years.
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Huh, interesting. I’m likely to be posting again. I’m really not confident in the next step, the other end of the harness. Thanks
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Thanks for the pictures.
The generator has the original style cutout, or Relay, IH called it, on top of it. The relay was used up to Cub serial number 115403. It is supposed to have a cover, to keep dirt and water out of it.
Since the 4 position charge and light switch is gone, there isn't any way to control the output of the gen. Whoever changed it in the past should have left the original 4 position switch there, where the 3 position switch is.
The Relay isn't a voltage regulator, it was before Cubs had voltage regulators, you have to choose the charge rate yourself, using the 4 position switch.
The voltage regulator came out during 1950, at serial number 115403.
The 1949 Cub owner's manual tells how to use the 4 position switch, it has L H D B positions. L is low charge, H is high charge, D is dim front lights, B is bright front lights.
Your Cub has been partly changed to the newer Cubs, with Battery Ignition, and a 3 position switch, but it still has some of the 1949 equipment, the gen with a relay on top of it.
I can't read the gen model number in your picture on the plate it has. The gen used with a relay is usually 1101355. The model number is on the left side of the plate. Please look and see if it has that number. We need to be sure it has a 6 volt gen, if it has been using a 6 volt battery.
There is also no fuse for the lights. The diagram shows the fuse.
The fuse for the lights is on the back of the 4 position switch, like the diagram shows.
The 3 position switch uses a light fuse in a fuse holder, at the bottom hole in the dash, that's part of the newer system.
You will have to look at each wire, one at a time, and see if they go to where the diagram shows they should go.
You didn't say if the Cub has been using 6 or 12 volts.
You could update the charging system, and put a voltage regulator on it. Some companies make a voltage regulator that goes on top of the gen, IH didn't put the voltage regulator there, but there are or were some sold that went there.
You would need to change some of the wiring, and make it like the newer wiring diagram is.
The relay has 3 posts for wires, the voltage regulator has 4 posts for wires.
It isn't hard to figure out the wiring for a Cub.
The generator has the original style cutout, or Relay, IH called it, on top of it. The relay was used up to Cub serial number 115403. It is supposed to have a cover, to keep dirt and water out of it.
Since the 4 position charge and light switch is gone, there isn't any way to control the output of the gen. Whoever changed it in the past should have left the original 4 position switch there, where the 3 position switch is.
The Relay isn't a voltage regulator, it was before Cubs had voltage regulators, you have to choose the charge rate yourself, using the 4 position switch.
The voltage regulator came out during 1950, at serial number 115403.
The 1949 Cub owner's manual tells how to use the 4 position switch, it has L H D B positions. L is low charge, H is high charge, D is dim front lights, B is bright front lights.
Your Cub has been partly changed to the newer Cubs, with Battery Ignition, and a 3 position switch, but it still has some of the 1949 equipment, the gen with a relay on top of it.
I can't read the gen model number in your picture on the plate it has. The gen used with a relay is usually 1101355. The model number is on the left side of the plate. Please look and see if it has that number. We need to be sure it has a 6 volt gen, if it has been using a 6 volt battery.
I'm not sure what you mean. In your picture it looks like the wire to power the light switch is connected to the ammeter, instead of to the hot side of the ignition switch.
There is also no fuse for the lights. The diagram shows the fuse.
The fuse for the lights is on the back of the 4 position switch, like the diagram shows.
The 3 position switch uses a light fuse in a fuse holder, at the bottom hole in the dash, that's part of the newer system.
You will have to look at each wire, one at a time, and see if they go to where the diagram shows they should go.
You didn't say if the Cub has been using 6 or 12 volts.
You could update the charging system, and put a voltage regulator on it. Some companies make a voltage regulator that goes on top of the gen, IH didn't put the voltage regulator there, but there are or were some sold that went there.
You would need to change some of the wiring, and make it like the newer wiring diagram is.
The relay has 3 posts for wires, the voltage regulator has 4 posts for wires.
It isn't hard to figure out the wiring for a Cub.
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Below is a listing for a new 6 volt voltage regulator made to fit on top of the generator. It has a curved base, to fit where the relay is. You can look at the picture, I'm not recommending one brand or another.
The voltage regulator used for Cubs 115403 and above has a flat base, it goes on a mounting bracket that the older Cubs don't have.
I don't know how good this one works, some people on here have said the lower priced voltage regulators don't last long.
https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Farmall-Cub_Voltage-Regulator_VR1813.html
Or if you if you would rather keep it like it was originally, and don't have the cover for the relay, you could buy a new relay, and a new 4 position switch. Then you would wire that part of it like the older diagram shows.
The voltage regulator used for Cubs 115403 and above has a flat base, it goes on a mounting bracket that the older Cubs don't have.
I don't know how good this one works, some people on here have said the lower priced voltage regulators don't last long.
https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Farmall-Cub_Voltage-Regulator_VR1813.html
Or if you if you would rather keep it like it was originally, and don't have the cover for the relay, you could buy a new relay, and a new 4 position switch. Then you would wire that part of it like the older diagram shows.
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Good morning and I wish it were 90 degrees again. Unless I hear advice in opposition, I’m head toward the simpler 12 volt alternator system. I consulted with our wise farm donkey but she didn’t offer much of an opinion.
For the record I’m not a purist, but I have a love for stuff of old and so I have limitations.
Thanks Glen if you think I ought to change my mind I’m listening. Thank to all
For the record I’m not a purist, but I have a love for stuff of old and so I have limitations.
Thanks Glen if you think I ought to change my mind I’m listening. Thank to all
Yes, the 12-volt system is POTENTIALLY simpler. But the original harness only has 4 wires. It can't get much simpler. Clearly you are having a lot of trouble with the wiring itself, as opposed to trouble with failing components. You are now considering discarding a 4-wire system that was identical on 100,000+ tractors (and well understood by numerous members here) and replacing it with a do-it-yourself system built to your own plan. Think about that for a minute. I suggest you remove each component, thoroughly clean up the connections (including the mounts to get good grounds), reinstall and then test it. If it works you are done. If you still want to convert, the remove and cleanup steps were required anyway.