Series 7000 LT46 drop deck/engine quits.

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dragonworks

Member
This mower has less than 8 hours on it. I bought it a little over a year ago. I took the safety switch off that connects to the lever to drop the blade and checked it with a meter. It checks good. What to do next? If I can't find the problem I am going to have to buy ramps for my truck and bring it somewhere and I really don't want to do that. I have searched youtube and have tried a few of the "fixes" but no go. There must be only x amount of reasons? Any help would be greatly appreciated. It runs strong no problem there. Goes in reverse etc.
 
I'm not familiar with that model, don't know specifics of the safety switches. A lot of mowers have cut-offs that can stop things when the PTO is engaged. I have not seen any that react to lowering the blade. In any case, these things are usually also tied into the seat so it shuts down when you fall off.

Check for a seat switch that opens/closes when you sit on it. Also, since you took the other switch off to test it, there may still be a problem with how it is installed. Is there any adjustment to the switch position? Retest it while installed and activate it by moving the lever.
 
Jim Becker said:
I'm not familiar with that model, don't know specifics of the safety switches. A lot of mowers have cut-offs that can stop things when the PTO is engaged. I have not seen any that react to lowering the blade. In any case, these things are usually also tied into the seat so it shuts down when you fall off.

Check for a seat switch that opens/closes when you sit on it. Also, since you took the other switch off to test it, there may still be a problem with how it is installed. Is there any adjustment to the switch position? Retest it while installed and activate it by moving the lever.
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I have checked the seat switch, it is acting normally. The switch on the lever that drops the deck that I checked is in its right position. I have been looking to bypass all safety switches but cannot find a video to walk me through it. I found a promising one but it is pretty vague as to which wire to work with.
 
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dragonworks said:
I have checked the seat switch, it is acting normally. The switch on the lever that drops the deck that I checked is in its right position. I have been looking to bypass all safety switches but cannot find a video to walk me through it. I found on promising one but it is pretty vague as to which wire to work with.
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Zip tie both of those switches closed. That will bypass them.
 
S2H said:
Zip tie both of those switches closed. That will bypass them.
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I don't know how I would zip tie the seat switch closed, it isn't mechanical, the other one yes, I can try that. I have a guy coming over tomorrow but maybe I can beat him to it.
 
S2H said:
Zip tie both of those switches closed. That will bypass them.
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Zip tied the switch under the lever that drops the deck. She kept running. I had already pulled that switch out, checked continuity with it open and closed with a multimeter and it checked good? I put it back in and it wouldn't run when dropping the deck. I don't know if this may cause any other problems down the line and I won't figure that out until I mow. It has rained the last two days and everything is pretty wet and I have to wait. The plug going into the switch only has three wires. If I knew which ones to connect together I would just bypass the switch altogether. I won't take chances with trial and error. I did that once under a Subaru dash and fried the wiring harness! That was exciting. I haven't found how to bypass the seat switch yet which I would like to do, as long as she is mowing that can wait.
You da man. I don't know why I didn't think of that. Probably because I had tested the switch and believed it to be operative? I still don't get why it causes a problem if it tests good? Anyway, I am not about to question it, I am about to mow the lawn, it's getting out of hand. Once again, thank you. My battery move is still working well.
 
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dragonworks said:
Zip tied the switch under the lever that drops the deck. She kept running. I had already pulled that switch out, checked continuity with it open and closed with a multimeter and it checked good? I put it back in and it wouldn't run when dropping the deck. I don't know if this may cause any other problems down the line and I won't figure that out until I mow. It has rained the last two days and everything is pretty wet and I have to wait. The plug going into the switch only has three wires. If I knew which ones to connect together I would just bypass the switch altogether. I won't take chances with trial and error. I did that once under a Subaru dash and fried the wiring harness! That was exciting. I haven't found how to bypass the seat switch yet which I would like to do, as long as she is mowing that can wait.
You da man. I don't know why I didn't think of that. Probably because I had tested the switch and believed it to be operative? I still don't get why it causes a problem if it tests good? Anyway, I am not about to question it, I am about to mow the lawn, it's getting out of hand. Once again, thank you. My battery move is still working well.
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I’m curious how the seat switch works if it doesn’t have a button that pushes down when you sit on the seat.

Both of those switches have been zip tied closed on my LTX 1045 for 12 years with no problems. You should be good to keep running it that way.
 
S2H said:
I’m curious how the seat switch works if it doesn’t have a button that pushes down when you sit on the seat.

Both of those switches have been zip tied closed on my LTX 1045 for 12 years with no problems. You should be good to keep running it that way.
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The seat switch must be a mechanical pressure switch inside the seat? With the seat open there is no visible switch of any kind, just an electrical connector. I have seen videos where they say disconnect the switch and bypass it by wiring certain terminals together but it never gets down to which ones. I put a thin zip tie on the deck lever switch, it may slip off due to vibration, if it does I have some real beefy ones. After four hours of operations she refused to start. I disconnect all the switches, connected them back up etc. I don't know what I did but I got her running. I am regretting my choice of mower manufacturers and thinking I should have went with a John Deere. Also, their battery was completely dead within less than one season and wouldn't take a charge. New ones are between 75 and 125 dollars and they have the worst terminal design ever manufactured.
Thanx again.
Jerry
 
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S2H said:
I’m curious how the seat switch works if it doesn’t have a button that pushes down when you sit on the seat.

Both of those switches have been zip tied closed on my LTX 1045 for 12 years with no problems. You should be good to keep running it that way.
Click to expand...
Added benefit. Now she mows in reverse without having to turn the key and press that reverse button. I don't know if it had anything to do with me tying that switch down but it wouldn't do it before. Anyway, I looked at the seat switch, the connector comes off the switch. The mechanical part must be up in the seat where you can't get to it without removing the switch from the seat and I don't see how to do that yet. I was a machinist and a shade tree mechanic for fifty years, I will get around to figuring it out. At least I got my lawn mowed. Thanx again.
 
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