raised rows

[Jack]

Hello all,
I use my hillers to make raised rows out in the field. so I am wondering, how do you guys level the tops of the rows after hilling them, my plans this coming season is to make the rows, put down double drip tape, then cover with plastic mulch. I am hoping for more ideas, other than going back with a rake to level out the beds,
thank you
Jack

 

[SamsFarm]

You could get a bed shaper / pastic layer, I think they even offer a attachment for drip tape

 

[Jack]

yes I considered one of those 3 point mulch layers, but they are costly. I watched a video on this site of a cub laying the plastic mulch, and I'm considering that method, but I need to get the top nice and level first an install the drop tape

 

[Bill Hudson]

Remove the cultivator shovels/shanks from the rear gangs and fabricate a straight/level cross member (wood or steel) between the gangs to level the hill. One pass to complete the bed.

Bill

 

[Jack]

Remove the cultivator shovels/shanks from the rear gangs and fabricate a straight/level cross member (wood or steel) between the gangs to level the hill. One pass to complete the bed.

Bill

thats a good idea.... thank you

 

[Jim Becker]

The best set-up is going to depend on the height and width you are going for on your finished beds. Using 2 sets of disk hillers might be an option if you are going fairly wide, as might also be a set of potato hillers. Either of these options would probably be improved by adding something to the back as Bill suggested.

 

[Jack]

The best set-up is going to depend on the height and width you are going for on your finished beds. Using 2 sets of disk hillers might be an option if you are going fairly wide, as might also be a set of potato hillers. Either of these options would probably be improved by adding something to the back as Bill suggested.

hi Jim,
I'm going to make 30" beds ( I hope anyway ) I have two sets of 16" hillers i got from (agri supply) so I should be ok as far as making the rows.

 

[Jim Becker]

I'm going to make 30" beds ( I hope anyway ) I have two sets of 16" hillers i got from (agri supply) so I should be ok as far as making the rows.

You will need to experiment with them a bit. The height of the bed and condition of the soil will both have some effect. I'd probably start with a pair of hillers set with about 12 inches between them, followed by the next pair set out another 9 inches on each side and deeper than the front set. That will probably give you 3 ridges that can be knocked level into one bed using Bill's cross piece.

 

[Bill Hudson]

The more I think about this, this would be an excellent opportunity for using a Super A (or other model) with the independent hydraulics front and rear. Gives you the ability of adjusting depth of one with affecting the other, allowing quick response to changes in soil conditions/type. George Willer (if my memory serves me correct) had set up a Cub, with cultivators, using the hydraulics to control the front and a hand lift to control the back. This allowed the cultivators to enter and leave the ground at the same spot, making for a much neater/effective job.

Bill

 

[Jack]

The more I think about this, this would be an excellent opportunity for using a Super A (or other model) with the independent hydraulics front and rear. Gives you the ability of adjusting depth of one with affecting the other, allowing quick response to changes in soil conditions/type. George Willer (if my memory serves me correct) had set up a Cub, with cultivators, using the hydraulics to control the front and a hand lift to control the back. This allowed the cultivators to enter and leave the ground at the same spot, making for a much neater/effective job.

Bill

I don't have a super A, just a cub and a international 300

 

[Jim Becker]

a Super A (or other model) with the independent hydraulics front and rear

I agree on all points. I believe George did use a hand lift rear with hydraulics to control the front. Several others, including me, have tried it as well. After doing it a year or two, I decided it wasn't worth the effort to mount the hand lift unit for the small amount I was cultivating. Later on, I took an even easier approach of not installing the rear cultivators. One warning to anyone that does it: When run all the way forward, the lift lever can smack straight into the Touch-Control quadrant. As I recall, the contact point is in the middle of the hand grip of the lever.

 

[Jack]

You will need to experiment with them a bit. The height of the bed and condition of the soil will both have some effect. I'd probably start with a pair of hillers set with about 12 inches between them, followed by the next pair set out another 9 inches on each side and deeper than the front set. That will probably give you 3 ridges that can be knocked level into one bed using Bill's cross piece.

thank you for all the pointers
well appreciated
Jack