I decided to do an in frame rebuild on it.
Before doing an engine rebuild, you could check the front right corner of the block to see if there are any cracks, the front end mounting part of the casting can crack loose from the block. If it has any cracks, they say on here to replace the block.
The picture above shows the front end mounting areas.
Below is the Cub and LoBoy service manual, it has lots of info.
I would read the engine section, section 1, before working on the engine.
There is a contents beginning on page 1 of most sections, that makes it easier to use online.
https://farmallcub.club/rudi/farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Blue Ribbon Service Manuals/GSS-1411 Service Manual for Cubs and Lo-boy Tractors/index.html
You didn't say the year of the Cub. This manual was made in the 1970's so it has newer, 12 volt electrical system info.
Remember to use non hardening sealer on the head bolt threads when putting the head on the engine. I use Permatex Aviation Form A Gasket, it comes in a small can with a brush under the lid.
Stir it before use, it can settle sitting. They sell it at NAPA in my area.
There is a head bolt torque sequence in the service manual, on page 1-14.
I would torque the head bolts gradually in steps, 25, 35, then 45 ft lbs. Each time following the torque sequence.
You could use copper spray on the head gasket when putting the head on, if you want.
Spray it on just as you put the head on, and put the head on while the spray is wet.
Use an even amount on both sides of the gasket. If you haven't used it before, I would practice spraying it on some flat metal first.
After putting the head on, I would let the engine sit for a day before putting coolant in it, so the sealers can dry some. Don't run the engine without coolant in it.
Below are pictures of the sealer and copper spray.
