I have a commercial FD750D Kawasaki liquid cooled lawn mower engine it has 2,700 hours, burns oil but still runs as new, a new engine is 2,000 dollars, a partial rebuild kit is 170 dollars, comes with rings,pistons, head gaskets but no mention of rod or crank bearings :? , anyone familiar with this engine :?:
Kawasaki liquid cooled V-twin rebuild or scrap
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ricky racer
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My John Deere 425 has a Kawasaki FD620D liquid cooled V twin that ran great but used oil too. I think it's very similar to the FD750D engine. I rebuilt mine a few months ago. It had 1460 hours on it but I have no history on the tractor having just purchased it last winter. It is one of the easiest engines to rebuild that I have ever done. I found a few surprises once I had the engine apart. The most surprising thing is, there is only one bearing in the engine!! There are no rod bearings in either end of the rod. There is one main bearing, a sleeve type bearing pressed into one side of the engine case while the crank just runs in a bore on the other side!! The first time I ever saw an engine lacking bearings was when I was rebuilding the R22 engine in my Toyota pick up many years ago. It had no cam bearings, the cam just ran in the aluminum bores in the head.
To my surprise there was virtually no wear on the rods or main bearings. While I had it apart however I pressed a new bearing in the engine case. Everything was carefully measured. The crank, wrist pins, pistons, cam, valve guides and stems all measured well within spec. The valves needed ground but the seats just required lapping in.
As I said earlier, the engine is really easy to work on. Here is the crank case before I pulled the crank and cam out of it.
The culprit causing he oil consumption was excessive ring end gap.
The bore only showed .0005"-.001" of wear measured with a bore gauge. I purchased a 3" ball hone to get a nice cross hatch in the cylinder. There was a slight ridge that I had to remove with a ridge reamer, not much of one but you could feel it.
New rings, valve seals, crank seals and gaskets all the way around finished things off and now I have a great running engine.
I suggest you at least tear down the engine and measure everything before you decide to spend $2000 for a new engine. It may end up costing you only around $200 for virtually the same thing. Of course if the cylinders require boring, that along with new pistons will up the cost a bit but it is still a very inexpensive and easy engine to rebuild.
To my surprise there was virtually no wear on the rods or main bearings. While I had it apart however I pressed a new bearing in the engine case. Everything was carefully measured. The crank, wrist pins, pistons, cam, valve guides and stems all measured well within spec. The valves needed ground but the seats just required lapping in.
As I said earlier, the engine is really easy to work on. Here is the crank case before I pulled the crank and cam out of it.
The culprit causing he oil consumption was excessive ring end gap.
The bore only showed .0005"-.001" of wear measured with a bore gauge. I purchased a 3" ball hone to get a nice cross hatch in the cylinder. There was a slight ridge that I had to remove with a ridge reamer, not much of one but you could feel it.
New rings, valve seals, crank seals and gaskets all the way around finished things off and now I have a great running engine.
I suggest you at least tear down the engine and measure everything before you decide to spend $2000 for a new engine. It may end up costing you only around $200 for virtually the same thing. Of course if the cylinders require boring, that along with new pistons will up the cost a bit but it is still a very inexpensive and easy engine to rebuild.
Thanks Ricky for replying to this post 
I don't know how I missed your reply 
I appreciate the info , the main thing on my mind with this engine you answered 8) , I was most concerned with what Kawasaki did for crank and rod bearing the thought of no bearing at all was in my mind which usually means it a throw away engine 
,,,,,, but there is hope since your engine had the press in type maybe mine will too, I am still running the engine, leaf clean up season still has 2-3 more weeks after the season ends I will pull the motor and see what I have to work with, I have my fingers crossed this engine has 2,790 hours and runs like new just uses way too much oil but I have used Mobil 1 synthetic for the last 2,500 hours so I think my chances are good on a rebuild able engine. I will update the post when the engine comes a part , Thanks :thanx:
I don't know how I missed your reply I appreciate the info , the main thing on my mind with this engine you answered 8) , I was most concerned with what Kawasaki did for crank and rod bearing the thought of no bearing at all was in my mind which usually means it a throw away engine ,,,,,, but there is hope since your engine had the press in type maybe mine will too, I am still running the engine, leaf clean up season still has 2-3 more weeks after the season ends I will pull the motor and see what I have to work with, I have my fingers crossed this engine has 2,790 hours and runs like new just uses way too much oil but I have used Mobil 1 synthetic for the last 2,500 hours so I think my chances are good on a rebuild able engine. I will update the post when the engine comes a part , Thanks :thanx:Rodney51Cub
501 Club
You can google Kawasaki FD750D engine and get a service manual. I do not have much experience with the internals of a 750. Most of mine is with the smaller motors. Kawasaki uses over size connecting rods if the crank needs to be turned. In my dealings with Kawasaki, they do not make rebuild kits. Each part must be ordered separately. I do not know why they do that.
Sorry about not answering sooner, but I read it and thought I will respond after work, then forgot.
Rodney
Sorry about not answering sooner, but I read it and thought I will respond after work, then forgot.
Rodney
Good tip on the service manual 8) , the Kawi parts by item I found that out when the throttle shaft for the 2 barrel carb broke in half I thought o crud now I need a whole new carb but Kawi had a new shaft for 30 dollars I was happily surprised on that one a new carb would be an easy 300 dollars.
I was happily surprised on that one a new carb would be an easy 300 dollars.Waffles412
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How did you press the case bearing out? I thought my engine was seized but as soon as took the front case off everything was free..took hours to remove btw
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