John Deere 60 repair

Mounted the tires today. I need to chase the threads in the hubs and then I can get them bolted back on the tractor.

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Just getting over a nasty cold that's kept me from doing much on the 60 for the last several days. Today I bolted the front wheels back on after chasing all of the threads. Then moved on to the Exh/Int manifold. Found a little interference between the water outlet and exhaust manifold. I think I can just grind a couple spots on the water outlet flange and a little casting bump? off of the exhaust manifold to get the clearance needed.

I forgot to add that this is an aftermarket manifold built in China.

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Painted a few more parts today. My cousin got a new fan shaft support to replace the original that was bent up pretty bad so it got some paint along with a few more radiator parts and the alternator bracket.

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Started assembling the Governor. The drive gear had some play in it before I took it apart. Found a worn woodruff key when I pulled it apart. Put a new woodruff key in the shaft for the drive gear but still had a little play in it. Better, but still there. I put some Green Loctite on it and that seems to have done the trick.

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Had to use a few more drops of the Loctite on one of the bearing races the press on the governor shaft. It fit good on the shaft until it was seated and then it would spin on the shaft (3rd pic). Painted a couple more parts that I had set aside and forgot about.

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Installed the bearing and distributor drive on the governor shaft and installed the shaft in the housing. Next is setting up the shim gaskets at the fan shaft and governor shaft cover to get proper gear contact and backlash.

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While trial fitting the new core in the radiator, I thought I should double check with my cousin to see if he wanted to just go with this 3-row core or if he wanted to buy a new 4-row core like the original was. His dad had bought this core over 20 years ago so there is no returning it. Initially he said just use what we got, but then got to thinking that was going to use this plowing and discing so it would get worked hard and thought he better just spend the money now on a 4-row and not chance an overheating problem down the road. I agreed since that would be a 25% reduction in cooling going from a 4-row to a 3-row core.

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Set the governor/fan shaft assy back on the tractor and verified the timing marks were correct. I'm cleaning and painting the bolts now and will get this bolted down tomorrow.

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Pulled the carb apart today. It was cleaner than I expected with the only rust buildup being in the fuel inlet/strainer bowl. All of the passages and jets appear to be open. Ran it thru the glass bead cabinet and treated with Ospho. I'll get it painted tomorrow and assemble this weekend.

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ajhbike":zmorbiqg said:
All of those little passages are fun to clean aren't they....
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OH YA!!! Glad I didn't need to remove the ball plugs in the idle passages. I was able to run a wire down each and shoot carb cleaner thru them to verify they were open. I have a set of long drills for doing the single barrel carbs.

Shot some green today.

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Looking good! One issue that John Deere carbs had is so many of them somehow end up with water in the float bowl. When it freezes it will bust off the stem that secures the bowl. Since the stem is a cast feature of the carburetor body, it renders the carburetor useless. You're lucky your is good! :wink:
 
ricky racer":9yabcimt said:
Looking good! One issue that John Deere carbs had is so many of them somehow end up with water in the float bowl. When it freezes it will bust off the stem that secures the bowl. Since the stem is a cast feature of the carburetor body, it renders the carburetor useless. You're lucky your is good! :wink:
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I've seen a couple that had that happen. I have a video on rebuilding these JD carbs from Roberts Carb Repair and they make new threaded ends and have a jig to weld them back up. I think the company changed hands so I don't know if they offer that repair anymore.
 
Received the new radiator core and a later model upper water pipe assy that has the thermostat in it. This tractor is an early model that used a bellows type thermostat in the lower radiator tank that ran a shutter to control the temp. The old bellows doesn't work and it didn't have the shutter on it. Both castings and the water pipe diameter are different between the early and late model upper water pipes.

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Sandblasted and primed the water outlet. To get all of the parts needed he had to buy some duplicates from Ebay sellers. I'll get some green shot on these tomorrow along with the distributor.

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The upper water pipe and extra casting are all sprayed green along with the Distributor, coil, and mounting brackets.

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I too had the ball plugs and didn't want to drill them out so I ended up bending a small torch cleaner...I used the long drills for the other 2 of the 4 holes that are kind of together for the all gas carbs.
 
Radiator core is installed. I'll get the water pump bolted on and then its time to install on the tractor.

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Had my brother come over to help wrestle the radiator up onto the tractor. Managed to get it on without any damage. After it was on, I installed the water pump, hose, and lower water pipe. Had the shroud laying over the fan shaft before the rad was put in place.

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Installed a new oil filter and setup the pressure tank to pre-lube the engine. Plumed it in to the oil pressure port on the governor. Pumped about a gallon through it and got oil at the rod and main bearings and up to the rocker shaft oil tube. Its ready to put the rocker cover back on and the crankcase cover. Its getting close now. I just have the upper water pipe, carb and intake pipes, air cleaner, and the alternator. most everything is just bolts and gaskets with a little wiring. Can't wait for the test fire.

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I have pretty much all of the parts back on the tractor except for the hood, grille, flywheel cover, exhaust pipe, and steering shaft. I need to set the timing and fill with water and then its time to go for startup and check it over for any issues like water or oil leaks. Hopefully this will happen tomorrow. If all goes well, I can finish up the wiring for the alternator and button everything up.

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