Gas leak at sediment bowl on 49 cub.

unkalunk

unkalunk

Active member
I'm working on magneto issues on my 49 cub but I also have a steady drip coming from the gasoline shut-off valve at the sediment bowl which I also have to take care of. I've read that some just convert to a flexible fuel line with an inline filter. I'm wondering what the pros and cons are to doing this and what parts I would need. I love how the sediment bowl looks but wonder how it compares to an inline filter. Are there alternative setups that people like more than others? Is it a matter of unscrewing the current apparatus and screwing in new parts from the hardware or auto parts store? Thank you

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I've had success stopping the leak like this on the shaft by (1) remove the nut from the threads so that it slides back on the shaft toward the handle then (2) wrap 3 or 4 wraps of dental floss around the shaft in a clockwise direction, the same way that the nut turns on the threads then screw the nut back on the threads so that the nut pushes the string down the shaft and against the valve body. Usually just a little more than finger tight is enough to stop the leak. If not, repeat the process again. Don't get it too tight or you will have difficulty opening and closing the valve. JMHO Stan
 
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Same process, but I have used PTFE Valve packing rope, available from Lowe's or pretty much any hardware I think. This is one example:


I usually make a diagonal cut at one end and then the same diagonal cut at an end just long enough to wrap once around the shaft. The diagonal allows them to overlap and seal better.

Then, as with the dental floss, gently push it down into the nut evenly as far as you can, assemble it, tighten the nut just finger tight, back it off, & retighten. You might need to do that process a couple times... You're just trying to squish it down in there evenly.
 
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Today I dug around and found a roll of yellow PTFE teflon tape. I twisted it into a string and wrapped it around the shaft after backing the nut off all the way. I used too much and when tightened I couldn't move the valve to open it. I backed it off and unwound some and cut it off and tightened it back up. This time I could only get a drop of fuel at a time. I think the problem was more related to which part I screwed in how much. You can only tighten the nut so far without then turning the valve stem. If you crank the vale stem down too much before tightening the nut it will be closed to too great an amount. I had to back the T handle off, opening it more and then tightening the nut and closing the valve more only if necessary to make the nut tight. This after removing the excess tape I had initially used. It's now working perfectly. And thank you Stan for the diagram of the sediment bowl. The screen goes on first then the gasket.
 

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unkalunk said:
Today I dug around and found a roll of yellow PTFE teflon tape. I twisted it into a string and wrapped it around the shaft ......................... after removing the excess tape I had initially used. ...................It's now working perfectly. ................And thank you Stan for the diagram of the sediment bowl. The screen goes on first then the gasket.
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You're welcome, I found that diagram in one of the manuals, not sure which one. Glad you got the drip fixed, sometimes it's a trial and error process. Because the valve is somewhat hard to access to open and close I installed a quarter turn, 1/8 pipe valve on the outlet side of the sediment bowl. It's hardly visible and works great!! Stan
 

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staninlowerAL said:
You're welcome, I found that diagram in one of the manuals, not sure which one. Glad you got the drip fixed, sometimes it's a trial and error process. Because the valve is somewhat hard to access to open and close I installed a quarter turn, 1/8 pipe valve on the outlet side of the sediment bowl. It's hardly visible and works great!! Stan
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Thanks Stan. My shutoff valve is in a good location so I can get to it easily. It faces the right side so probably as convenient as it gets. I'll post a pic of the JB Weld fix of the gas tank as soon as I reduce the size of that photo. It's too large to upload.

Wondering if you can point me to info about the cutter bar. It's been on the tractor for last 6 or 7 years and I want to put it to use as soon as possible but want to make sure it has what it needs as far as lube or other maintenance goes. Hopefully I'm out there in cuttting later today but don't want be cutting corners. lol.
 
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unkalunk said:
Thanks Stan. My shutoff valve is in a good location so I can get to it easily. It faces the right side so probably as convenient as it gets. I'll post a pic of the JB Weld fix of the gas tank as soon as I reduce the size of that photo. It's too large to upload.

Wondering if you can point me to info about the cutter bar. It's been on the tractor for last 6 or 7 years and I want to put it to use as soon as possible but want to make sure it has what it needs as far as lube or other maintenance goes. Hopefully I'm out there in cuttting later today but don't want be cutting corners. lol.
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I didn't look back through your posts to see what you have but if the mower is a sickle bar type on a cub you can find the manuals at the Resources link at the top of this page. Another option is to send you the pdf file via email. Can you ID the mower? Standard FCub would be the C22 mower. Picture is from this forum and there's some more pics at forum sponsor TM Tractor website. Stan
 

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staninlowerAL said:
I didn't look back through your posts to see what you have but if the mower is a sickle bar type on a cub you can find the manuals at the Resources link at the top of this page. Another option is to send you the pdf file via email. Can you ID the mower? Standard FCub would be the C22 mower. Picture is from this forum and there's some more pics at forum sponsor TM Tractor website. Stan
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Yes sickle bar is what my parents always called it and it looks like the one in your picture. I'll upload a picture.

I'll also take a look in resources send you my email if I can't find it. Too large a file. I'll try to shrink it.
 
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Hi,
Below is the 22 Mowers operator's manual, it has lots of info. It shows how to install the mowers on the tractors, and it has cutter bar maintenance info.
It is for 3 different mowers for 3 different models of IH tractors. One fits the A series, 140, one fits the Cub, and one fits the Cub LoBoy.
The Introduction beginning on page 2 explains them.
The mower for the Cub is the Cub 22 Mower.
The mountings are different for the 3 mowers.
Some info is for all 3 mowers, and some is for 1 mower, look at the top of the pages and it tells when info is for 1 mower.
https://farmallcub.club/rudi/farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub Implement Manuals/International 22, Cub-22, and L-22 Mowers/index.html

Many Cub 22 Mowers use the IH tapered head bolts to hold it onto the clutch housing, and the left final drive, at the rear. If the holes in the brackets have tapers at them, they are supposed to have the tapered head bolts. The bolts help keep the mower solid on the tractor, the mowers vibrate, and shake some.
The bolt at the bracket at the square hole, at the front of the mower should have a setscrew, and a lock nut. The setscrew digs into the bracket so it can't slide out of the hole.
Check the bolts often at first when using the mower, to be sure they are staying tight.
Below is a listing for the tapered head bolts at TM Tractor Parts, you can look at the pictures.
https://www.tmtractor.com/new/gb/324fp.htm

The rear bracket uses 1 longer tapered head bolt, unless it is the early style bracket. :)
 
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Glen said:
Hi,
Below is the 22 Mowers operator's manual, it has lots of info. It shows how to install the mowers on the tractors, and it has cutter bar maintenance info.
It is for 3 different mowers for 3 different models of IH tractors. One fits the A series, 140, one fits the Cub, and one fits the Cub LoBoy.
The Introduction beginning on page 2 explains them.
The mower for the Cub is the Cub 22 Mower.
The mountings are different for the 3 mowers.
Some info is for all 3 mowers, and some is for 1 mower, look at the top of the pages and it tells when info is for 1 mower.
https://farmallcub.club/rudi/farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub Implement Manuals/International 22, Cub-22, and L-22 Mowers/index.html

Many Cub 22 Mowers use the IH tapered head bolts to hold it onto the clutch housing, and the left final drive, at the rear. If the holes in the brackets have tapers at them, they are supposed to have the tapered head bolts. The bolts help keep the mower solid on the tractor, the mowers vibrate, and shake some.
The bolt at the bracket at the square hole, at the front of the mower should have a setscrew, and a lock nut. The setscrew digs into the bracket so it can't slide out of the hole.
Check the bolts often at first when using the mower, to be sure they are staying tight.
Below is a listing for the tapered head bolts at TM Tractor Parts, you can look at the pictures.
https://www.tmtractor.com/new/gb/324fp.htm

The rear bracket uses 1 longer tapered head bolt, unless it is the early style bracket. :)
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Thanks for letting me know about the attachment bolts and all. I have uninstalled the mower for now so the tractor can do some grading work. While uninstalling it there was one attachment bolt irregularity on the left rear. I remember it looked like a notch was cut to allow both sickle bar and some other part simultaneously. It was also short one tapered head bolt replaced with a regular bolt in the rear somewhere. Sorry to be so vague. I'll go back and look more closely.
 
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Hi,
If the rear bracket is the newer style, it is made to work with the drawbar on the Cub, with the mower. The mower bracket has 2 bolt holes, and a spacer welded on at the upper hole. The drawbar bracket fills the thickness of the spacer at the lower hole.
The upper hole uses a regular bolt and a lock washer. The manual I posted above tells the lengths, I think.
If the bolt hole has a taper, it uses the tapered head bolt. If it doesn't have a taper, it uses a regular bolt, and usually a lock washer.
If the notches in the brackets are original, they are for mounting the mower. You put the bolt in the hole, and leave it so it is in the loosened position, then hang the mower onto the bolt, the front bracket had that on the older mowers, and the rear of the mower drive have that, it is to make it easier to put the drive on the Cub.
Below is a picture of the newer rear bracket.
The older bracket has 1 bolt hole, I think, and wasn't made to be used with the drawbar on the Cub, I think.
The 2nd pic, from TM Tractor Parts shows one of the front mountings, it has a hook shape. I think the manual above doesn't show the hook shape, they changed the mowers, and the newer mowers don't have it, I guess. :)
 

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