Farmall Cub Radiator Replacement

Dale Finch said:
The problem with mine is that the clearance between the hood and the "nub"/tubing is very small and the hood is resting against the tubing, and the cable tie holding the tubing on sometimes interferes with removing the radiator cap!

There's always SOMETHING!!! 😉
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I bet if I do that it will void the warranty.
 
Have you considered a plastic 90 deg elbow that could be connected to the radiator overflow tube with a short piece of plastic or rubber tubing with the extension connection routed down to the lower part of the shroud and below for overflow? The ells are sold in different sizes/lengths and materials. I bought a couple of brass barbed 1/4 inch for a fuel line application from walmart marketplace. You also could check with a good hardware store, there's one near me that sells them. Stan
 

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I might have considered replacing the whole tube with one from TM.
However, you may be past that point. I might go the way Dale suggested. I would route it a bit differently though. I'd run it close to the front edge of the fan shroud, maybe even along the side of the radiator side brace. You could add clips to the shroud retaining screws. Routing it this way hides it behind the dogleg, maybe a little would be visible at the bottom where you route it into the front bolster.
 
Jim Becker said:
I might have considered replacing the whole tube with one from TM.
However, you may be past that point. I might go the way Dale suggested. I would route it a bit differently though. I'd run it close to the front edge of the fan shroud, maybe even along the side of the radiator side brace. You could add clips to the shroud retaining screws. Routing it this way hides it behind the dogleg, maybe a little would be visible at the bottom where you route it into the front bolster.
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That great to know they make a replacement. I'm afraid to alter it in anyway until the warranty expires and it has proven itself. I might try to think of something else until then or just leave it be and try to make a careful effort not to verify fill the radiator. I believe I was told on here before that you only need enough antifreeze to cover the tubes inside?
 
RunningRed said:
….. I was told on here before that you only need enough antifreeze to cover the tubes inside?
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Generally speaking that is correct. Also the Owner’s Manual recommends the coolant level be 2” below the top of the filler neck. That is another method you can use to verify correct coolant level, assuming the new radiator neck length is the same as your original radiator.
 
Below is a page from the 1965 Cub and LoBoy operator's manual, telling about filling the cooling system. It also has a picture of the coolant level in the radiator. The coolant should just cover the baffle when cold.
I don't know if your new radiator has a baffle in it, like the originals do.
https://farmallcub.club/rudi/farmal... Lo-Boy Operator's Manual 7-29-65/Page-21.jpg

Some coolant might come out the overflow tube when the engine warms up.
Don't add coolant when it cools off, or it can just push it out again when warm.
Look in the radiator when it is cold again, and you can see the level it is when cold.
 
Just to update the radiator seems to be working great. I ran it around for half an hour and when I put it back in the garage I felt the lower lower pipe and it was just past luke warm. The upper water hose according to my laser thermometer was 165 degrees. I even set my hand directly on top of manifold between the spark plugs for 3 to 4 seconds before I had to take my hand off. There's was no antifreeze coming out the overflow along with no steaming or boiling. Is there anywhere on the cub to monitor the water temp?
 
I believe the water outlet between the head and the return hose in about as good as you can get. Since the system is not pressurized you could stick a cooking thermometer in the upper reservoir (if your spouse doesn't object) ;) if it has enough coolant in it. JMHO Stan
 
Jim Becker said:
I might have considered replacing the whole tube with one from TM.
However, you may be past that point. I might go the way Dale suggested. I would route it a bit differently though. I'd run it close to the front edge of the fan shroud, maybe even along the side of the radiator side brace. You could add clips to the shroud retaining screws. Routing it this way hides it behind the dogleg, maybe a little would be visible at the bottom where you route it into the front bolster.
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I bought one of those and it wasn’t even in the ballpark. I chucked it in the bin
 
My addition to this is that when I recovered the family 1950 cub the radiator was messed up. I first tried to order the Made in Ireland one from TM Tractor but it was out of stock. I sent them an email Asking about stock and they said they would order them but the email reply came too far away. So, I went to Cap-A-Radiator (At least the company that took them over - Acme Radiator) and ask them to repair it. And it was interest interesting because they said wow I can't believe that we actually have the specs for the replacement core. So they did that and it costs a ridiculous amount of money like 450 bucks. So it is more than the replacement one but at least I have the OEM frame. And it worked perfect.

Now it is weird to me If I hover in an out of body experience and look down at what I'm doing I can say that's ridiculous why would you pay that??? You can just buy a salvage tractor with a good radiator for 100 bucks or whatever and just do that. But you know what this is the family tractor and this is what we did.

Point is, the options do exist to a bad original radiator but it will cost...
 
randyny said:
My addition to this is that when I recovered the family 1950 cub the radiator was messed up. I first tried to order the Made in Ireland one from TM Tractor but it was out of stock. I sent them an email Asking about stock and they said they would order them but the email reply came too far away. So, I went to Cap-A-Radiator (At least the company that took them over - Acme Radiator) and ask them to repair it. And it was interest interesting because they said wow I can't believe that we actually have the specs for the replacement core. So they did that and it costs a ridiculous amount of money like 450 bucks. So it is more than the replacement one but at least I have the OEM frame. And it worked perfect.

Now it is weird to me If I hover in an out of body experience and look down at what I'm doing I can say that's ridiculous why would you pay that??? You can just buy a salvage tractor with a good radiator for 100 bucks or whatever and just do that. But you know what this is the family tractor and this is what we did.

Point is, the options do exist to a bad original radiator but it will cost...
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I still have my original sitting in my garage and don't have the heart to throw it out. I have no clue what to do with it.
 
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