1872 Engine Mounts

M

moparado

Well-known member
Howdy, new here, looks like a great forum.
I have a '55 (i think) Farmall U model and a Cub Cadet 1872 and hope to get some much needed info for each of 'em. My immediate problem is with the Cub Cadet. It seems all four engine mount bolts came loose and fell off. The only thing holding the engine in was the mowing belt and drive shaft. :shock: Arghh! :(
There appears to be a mount or spacer for the front two as the bolts there stayed put-the nuts fell off. Got it all back togather and there was about a 1/2" drive shaft runout.
Are there supposed to be spacers or mounts in the rear?
thanks,
Ken
 
Hi Ken, I had the same problem with my 1872. Yes, there are 4 spacers on the engine. I had a heck of a time getting the 2 rear ones. Please see my post titled 'I blew my drive shaft' for all the great replys and the related part numbers. Good luck and welcome, there are a great bunch of guys on this site.
Brian
 
Ken:

You will need:

(4) 712-0520 Bolt 3/8-16 x 1.5" Grd 5
(4) 712-3005 Nut 3/8-16 Hex, Nylock Grd 5
(4) 750-3009 Spacer
 
Hey guys thanks for the very useful info!
DoOver, before making the trip to the local CaseIH dealer for the rear spacers, i decided to inspect the drive shaft after reading the thread you mentioned.
Oh Boy! i got problems! The engine floating-ball alignment flange was dissintegrated, the floating bearing at the tranny end too! Pulled the driveshaft out with much difficulty since the engine has to be moved a few inches forward. The 'pilots' on both ends of the shaft are worn oblong.... in other words, the shaft is completely hosed. The rubber coupling disks appear to be OK and useable.
Some $125 later, i've got the spacers, new shaft and both floating alignment bearings from the Case dealer.

My question now, is how the heck do you remove the old floating bearing at the transmission end? :?

Geussing the right way is to use an official IH specialized puller of some kind. Dremel tool comes to mind.
 
Yes, There is a tool for that but IH nor Cadet Cadet make it.

That Drive Shaft Coupler is secured to the shaft with a "spirol pin". If you put a support under the coupler, to the floor, you can use a hammer and punch to drive that pin out. You make your repairs and reverse for installing that coupler. If you damage that spirol pin, obtain P/N: 715-3004
 
R Bedell,
Are you referring to the coupler yoke fastened to the tranny input shaft with a roll pin? I ended up not having to remove the entire yoke to get the press-fit floating alignment bearing out. Popped the alignment ball out with a large screw driver and ground a channel in the remaining retainer ring with a dremel tool/carbide cutter. After grinding a groove in the old retainer ring the whole thing popped out surprisingly easy. Thought getting out that old press-fit alignment guide out of the tranny yoke would be the toughest part of the whole project but it ended up taking under 10 minutes.

Everything was going smooth until i misplaced one of the engine mount spacers, looked for a good hour, gave up and ended up bolting some thick washers tightly together then welding em to form a spacer. Ain't pretty but i need to mow around the house and barn, startin to look like my property is abandoned.

OK I'll admit it, :oops: got this problem of loosing, misplacing or forgetting what i did with tools and/or parts during the 'heat of battle'. Spend most of my time lookin for stuff during these projects. :roll:
Hope to get this thing up and mowin tomorrow.
Ken
 
Yes, I was referring to the Drive Coupler on the Transmission Input Shaft, that is held in with a "spirol pin".

Sounds like you have completed your repairs.

At times, I have the same problem. Set parts and/or tools down, then I can't find them. BTDT...... :D
 
Well after numerous expletive deletives, cans of beer, cuts, scrapes and bruises, new specialized wrenches not to mention $100+ in parts....its finally back together and wow is it smooth running now! Almost like its got an electric motor. :D
The only problem now is a 1 or 2 second screech right after the motor starts. Geussing its the rear cooling shroud rubbing on the the flywheel or something as it got put back together minus the bottom bolts.

By the way when i returned back to the barn from the test drive, there it was in plain sight laying on the floor, that lost spacer. :roll:

thanks again for the replies and help
Ken
 
All us mechanics enjoy the fact that tools like to grow legs and walk off, and curse the force of gravity when we drop things only to find them at a much later date :lol:

I noticed the OEM mounting nuts for the 1872 were nylocks. I do not like those things, and would opt to use grade 8 mounting bolts with metal lockwashers and grade 8 nuts. I think (JMHO) the heat and vibration from the engine can have a long term effect on the nylon that is supposed to keep the nylock nuts held at torque, which is why they probably came off in the first place in that application. I would check those mounting blots on an annual basis and make sure they are tight.

-Fordlords-
 
Fordlords,
I Don't trust those nylocks either for the same reason you indicated. What i did right or wrong is to use permanent loctite, old fashioned lock washers and double nutted the rear bolts... the existing front ones were too short for double nutting! For a while there, even tried to figure out a way to use aircract-type nut retainers! :roll:

Yup, far as loosing, mis-placing or forgetting where i put stuff.. learned a long time ago to factor this 'looking around time' into project duration estimates.
Them 'lost tool/part' gremlins just don't give up! :twisted:
Ken
 
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