1450

J

jostev

501 Club
I got a 1450 today at a local auction, the guy said it was in good mechanical shape, and i believe him cause he's a friend and knows his stuff... it was used as a "tug" to drag stuff around the rental yard, so it probably hasn't had much use... just wondering ifn you guys could help me a little on the year? i got this serial numer off of the side, 2050660U635218* i haven't had a chance to really check it out yet, as it was pitch black when i gots home :evil: also, is it for sure a 1450 :?: also do you guys think it was worth 280$? also, what do you guys think of these tracotrs? are they any good? ifn not, i'll just fix it a little and sell it and find another one :lol:

Thanks for any help

Johnny
 
Johnny,
Man, if it's running and all of the pieces are there, you got a great deal. The important part of the serial no is the end, 635218, which tells you that it was built in Sept/Oct of 1978. The first part of the serial no. is the Kind Code, 205. The next part is the Machine Code, 0660 which does stand for a 1450 model tractor.

The 1000 series Cub Cadets were some of the most popular, and were built between October 1974 and August 1979. They were the first Quiet Line cadets, and the only ones to utilize an ISO mounted engine, where the engine is mounted on a plate, with rubber bushings between it and the frame. They were also the first to utilize a fully enclosed hood, quieter muffler and engine shrouding to help cool and quiet the engine, self dumping hydro units, and Kohler engines with seperate starters and generators, unlike the older cadets with Delco Starter/generators.

Personally, one of my favorite CC tractors. You should watch the engine because they are prone to wearing out the ISO mounts, and the replacement mounts are better than the factory originals. The gear drive models are much more prone to doing this, but if yours was used as a Tug, you will probably want to go ahead and change them before they screw up the drive shaft coupling. You can tell by grabbing the engine and shaking it side to side. If it moves much, replace the ISO mount.

Yours is one of the later models, which means that it may have the 1" front axle spindles, which was a much needed improvement. The tractor is the second series of the "wide frame" cadets, so most of the CC implements you look for will fit it.

Get some pictures up when you get a chance.
Congratulations,
Bill

The 1450 is a powerful tractor, and 2nd largest next to the 16hp 1650.
 
Thanks Bill and Paul, i guess that i was so excited about it :lol: i forgot to post my link to the pics :oops: http://s24.photobucket.com/albums/c47/j ... type=local

well, at an old IH dealership i remember a cab, blade, and blower for a wide frame CC and i'm purty srue it was a 1450-1650, i guess i'm gonna have to see ifn i can get back there 8)

Thanks guys, i'll take a look at it tomorrow to see ifn I need new iso's, can i get them from a CC dealer?

Johnny
 
Johnny: The ISO mounts are available
759-3952 MOUNT KIT-MOTOR 15.07
You will need 4 of these. There are MOOG parts out there but I don't know the numbers. If your mounting plates doesn't have a bar weld between them you want to do that at this time also. I would save the old top ISO mounts as the are usually still good and maybe you will only have to buy 2? I never did this but it's been brought up many times and you should get more and better information off of the guys who have done it.

You can't buy a 14HP Kohler engine for $280
 
Thanks, i think i will wait untill spring or somthin because i don't think i'm gonna use it much/at all this winter, and i have some other things t buy before i get these :lol: thanks though, i will write these numbers down and save them for next year...

btw, what does this have for a motor? like the model? K_ _ _ :?:

Thanks for the help :!:

Johnny
 
A 1450 should have a K-321 AQS, 14 hp engine. The A = Special oil pan, the Q = Quiet model, the S = Electric start.
 
complete engine for a 1650
Part ID: KH-PA-71221
Description ENGINE ASM-K341AQS
Qty:
Unit Price
2,193.42
A short block
Part ID: KH-45-522-41
Description SHORT BLOCK
Qty:
Unit Price
1,252.36
These prices came from the C&G Cub dealer in WI. Cub Cadet has a part site similar to C&G and you might still be able to order direct from Cub Cadet. I don't use that site for prices as if the part is NLA it won't show up in the shopping cart and C&G still has parts listed with prices that Cub Cadet doesn't.
What I meant on the other post that a used Kohler engine is worth more than he paid for the 1450.
 
I bought new isomounts from my Cub dealer for about $14 each this summer... still haven't put them in yet though. Once I get done with my CCO rebuild and mount the loader, I'll start tearing down my 1450 to do the engine cradle upgrade and install the new isomounts. And I have a new fan to replace the busted up one on the driveshaft.

I say, nice find on your 1450. First thing I'd do is change the Hytran and filter and engine oil.

Keith
 
thanks Paul for the engine model

yup keith, I will do that eventually, i KNOW that this has been better maintained than i would ever do in my lifetime because the guy who had it at maintained everything they had great, i checked the engine oil today, and it was cleaner than new stuff :lol: hopefully one of these days ifn it stops raining/snowing i can get a few CC's inside to get some winter work done 8)

another question, i went outside today to look at it for a minunte, and the hydro lever doesnt' move :?: :roll: what could/does this mean? it could just be wired or somthin siezed up in the linkage, as i said it's been raining since last night, so i haven' thad a chance to get it inside yet, just wondering ifn anybody knows what this could be?

Thanks a bucnh

Johnny
 
Watch out fooling around with the hydro lever, they break off. :shock: Good chance that the linkage is rusted up or siezed. Take the tunnle cover off and spray everything down with Kroil and let it soak a while. Also, with that cover off, look up under the dash, as I think there is another coupling up in there.
 
Bill, I take it you that from expirence? :P :wink:

i will do that hopefully sometime soon, i didn't yank on it cause i was thinking just what you said, probably i'd have a nice little chrome lever to hang on my wall ifn i pulled on it 8)

Thanks

Johnny

I bet it's frozen like you said, i doubt the hydro has ever been used, if so used very little
 
Yep, I've done it twice. Once on my 149, which the old potmetal levers were easy to break. I did it once on a 682. It did not exactly break, but it mangled it up enough that I had to get a new one. On the 682, I thought it was moving, so I just kept working it back and forth. turned out it was just ruining the point where it attaches to the control linkage.
 
Johnny
When you say hydro lever are you asking about the lever for the hudraulic lift, or the lever that controls the speed and direction?

The speed/direction lever will not move if the brake pedal is locked down.


The hyd lift lever does not move very far, but the linkage could rusted or stuck, and the connection between the lever and the control valve is kinda fragile, specially if the control valve is stuck. That is all under the dash and you will need to remove the gas tank and the "firewall" it is attached to, to get to the linkage.
 
thanks Paul, I am talking about the hydro lift lever... my dad, after i told him to not touch it, yanked on it, and he said it move, but really hard, so now i really gotta do it so some other idiot doesn't go and break it... i hope he dindt' break somthin already :evil: i'm hoping it's just the linkage, but who knows...

Thanks

Johnny
 
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