Starter Hand Crank won't engage!!

Alec

Active member
I have a new hand crank for my '48 Cub.
It slips into the front pulley as it should but it doesn't engage, that is, it just spins around.
After a while, I discovered that it will engage if I pull it out about 1" but, that's not good.
It can slip while I'm cranking.
I've seen other owners stick their crank in all the way, hold it there & crank away!
I can't see into the pulley easily so I'm not sure what the problem is & it's got to be a messy job to get to that pulley to check or replace it.
Any ideas please?
 
I don't see how that could happen. What does the end of the crank look like? The cross pin should be about 3/4 in from the end and be about 1-1/4 long.
 
Check your crank as Jim suggested. I have seen pulleys where the "tabs" that engage the crank have been broken off. You should be able to see something from the side. Is this your first crank, or are you replacing the old with new?
 
I have a new hand crank for my '48 Cub.
It slips into the front pulley as it should but it doesn't engage, that is, it just spins around.
After a while, I discovered that it will engage if I pull it out about 1" but, that's not good.
It can slip while I'm cranking.
I've seen other owners stick their crank in all the way, hold it there & crank away!
I can't see into the pulley easily so I'm not sure what the problem is & it's got to be a messy job to get to that pulley to check or replace it.
Any ideas please?
What is the source of the new hand crank?
 
I don't see how that could happen. What does the end of the crank look like? The cross pin should be about 3/4 in from the end and be about 1-1/4 long.
Aha! That may explain it.
The crank I got from a local IH dealer looks just like a Cub crank.
But, while the pin is exactly 1.25" long, it is only 1/4" from the end.
That explains why it doesn't engage - it goes right past the slots.
It also explains why, if I pull it out a bit, it does engage. I'm pulling it out to where the pin ought to be.

I wish I could see into the hole but it's hard. I have a scope for my mobile - a flexible cable with a camera on the end. I'll try that.
Is the slot to engage the pin in the pulley or in the end of the crankshaft. The end of the crankshaft certainly seems more solid.
 
Is the slot to engage the pin in the pulley or in the end of the crankshaft. The end of the crankshaft certainly seems more solid.
Hi,
Below are pictures from TM Tractor Parts of the front pulley.
The 2nd picture shows the front of the pulley, it has 2 places for the hand crank pin to engage the pulley. Sometimes they can get broken so they don't hold the pin.
http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gen/pulleyr1_001.htm

Below are pictures of the crankshaft. The hand crank pin doesn't fit into the crankshaft, only the pulley. The 1st picture shows where the front pulley goes, at the left of the picture.
http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gen/crankshaft_001.htm

The front pulley is a press fit on the crankshaft. They are usually very tight fitting. You need a large puller of the right type to pull the pulley off.
The front of the Cub has to be removed first.
With the engine Off, you can reach in and feel the front of the pulley, and maybe tell if the 2 places for the crank are there.
Below are pictures.
 

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Hi,
Below are pictures from TM Tractor Parts of the front pulley.
The 2nd picture shows the front of the pulley, it has 2 places for the hand crank pin to engage the pulley. Sometimes they can get broken so they don't hold the pin.
http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gen/pulleyr1_001.htm

Below are pictures of the crankshaft. The hand crank pin doesn't fit into the crankshaft, only the pulley. The 1st picture shows where the front pulley goes, at the left of the picture.
http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gen/crankshaft_001.htm

The front pulley is a press fit on the crankshaft. They are usually very tight fitting. You need a large puller of the right type to pull the pulley off.
The front of the Cub has to be removed first.
With the engine Off, you can reach in and feel the front of the pulley, and maybe tell if the 2 places for the crank are there.
Below are pictures.
Wow! That's super.
First thing tomorrow I get greasy.
Thanks.
 
If I recall the cub crank does not fit A-130, and vice versa. Maybe it is for a different tractor? Did you get a part number?

A-130 https://burchstoretractors.com/products/farmall-a-super-a-hand-held-engine-crank looks much closer to the end

Cub https://burchstoretractors.com/products/new-farmall-hand-held-engine-crank-with-spinner-handle
Right. The $69 one is much farther from the end than the $49 one.
From what you all have said, the Cub model is farther from the end.

So, my pin is 1 1/4" long exactly. Can someone tell me how far back from the end it ought to be?
An very accurate measurement from the end of the rod to the dead center of the pin would be helpful.
I don't want to damage the pulley slots.

I did NOT get a part number. These were just laying in a box. He picked one out & said that's it.
He was really old, older than me, so I figured he knew!!
 
Right. The $69 one is much farther from the end than the $49 one.
From what you all have said, the Cub model is farther from the end.

So, my pin is 1 1/4" long exactly. Can someone tell me how far back from the end it ought to be?
An very accurate measurement from the end of the rod to the dead center of the pin would be helpful.
I don't want to damage the pulley slots.

I did NOT get a part number. These were just laying in a box. He picked one out & said that's it.
He was really old, older than me, so I figured he knew!!
And, that part number (351 010 R31) is correct for the Cub, apparently.
 
And, that part number (351 010 R31) is correct for the Cub, apparently.
Try this. The rod stock material is 5/8 inch diameter. The last one that I made cost about $10 for materials. Stan
 

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3/4” from the end to the center of the pin is correct as shown in the drawing that Stan posted.
The pulley is cast iron, so unless you beat on it, not likely that you would damage the slots.
 
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