Farmall Cub Radiator Replacement

You didn't say you are buying a new radiator earlier in your posts, that I saw.
Some replacement Cub radiators are not the right height, they are too low, so the radiator cap scrapes on the hood when turning it.
Before putting the new radiator on, I would measure the height of it, and the height of the old one, if it fit right, and compare them.
Some don't fit right at the sides, the side channels don't fit on the radiator right.
I would measure the thickness, and try fitting the side channels on the new one.
They have said on here that Hamilton Bob's has radiators that fit well.
 
Glen said:
You didn't say you are buying a new radiator earlier in your posts, that I saw.
Some replacement Cub radiators are not the right height, they are too low, so the radiator cap scrapes on the hood when turning it.
Before putting the new radiator on, I would measure the height of it, and the height of the old one, if it fit right, and compare them.
Some don't fit right at the sides, the side channels don't fit on the radiator right.
I would measure the thickness, and try fitting the side channels on the new one.
They have said on here that Hamilton Bob's has radiators that fit well.
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Yes, the radiator on it now is beyond repair. I did a lot of research on radiators from different suppliers and it's really seems like a crap shoot. Some say they fit other say they don't. I just figured that steiner would be the best gamble. I could be right or wrong, who knows. I won't be sure until I receive it and can compare the old to the new.
 
Along with the idea of gasket maker between the radiator and steering housing. Does anyone have any ideas on how I can fix the worn areas on top of the water pipe? There looks to be a groove worn in from the hose clamp. My idea was to maybe use JB weld then sand it all down smooth.
 

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RunningRed said:
Thoughts about putting black RTV gasket maker between the radiator and steering housing? The radiator comes with a gasket also.
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I would suggest Aviation Gasket sealer on both sides of the the radiator gasket instead of the RTV with the reasoning behind it is the Aviation Gasket sealer does not completely harden over time but it's your choice. JMHO Stan
 
RunningRed said:
Along with the idea of gasket maker between the radiator and steering housing. Does anyone have any ideas on how I can fix the worn areas on top of the water pipe? There looks to be a groove worn in from the hose clamp. My idea was to maybe use JB weld then sand it all down smooth.
Click to expand...
The metal erosion that you're seeing is probably due to rust over an extended period of time and yes, JBWeld is a good choice to build it back up. Just be sure to clean it really well and I would coat the entire piece with a rust inhibitor like OSPHO. Just be certain that all contamination is removed before applying the JBWeld, alcohol is a good de-greaser to remove any traces of oil that is absolutely necessary to get a good bond. If you want to go a step further you could apply a coat if resin and fiberglass cloth. JMHO Stan
 
staninlowerAL said:
The metal erosion that you're seeing is probably due to rust over an extended period of time and yes, JBWeld is a good choice to build it back up. Just be sure to clean it really well and I would coat the entire piece with a rust inhibitor like OSPHO. Just be certain that all contamination is removed before applying the JBWeld, alcohol is a good de-greaser to remove any traces of oil that is absolutely necessary to get a good bond. If you want to go a step further you could apply a coat if resin and fiberglass cloth. JMHO Stan
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Excellent, thanks.
 
RunningRed said:
Excellent, thanks.
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Here's some pics of front rims that I recovered. I used a household 4% vinegar submerged soak as a cleaner then wire wheel/brush. The rusted away metal valve stem area was repaired with a sheet metal patch overlaid on both sides with resin and FG cloth. Stan
 

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staninlowerAL said:
Here's some pics of front rims that I recovered. I used a household 4% vinegar submerged soak as a cleaner then wire wheel/brush. The rusted away metal valve stem area was repaired with a sheet metal patch overlaid on both sides with resin and FG cloth. Stan
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Yea those look really nice good work. It's not easy taking parts like that and making them look new. Takes a lot of patience and hard work.
 
Here is a before and after pic of the upper steering gear housing I finished. Tons of cleaning and stripping the old paint off.
 

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The new paint looks good in your picture.
You didn't say if you checked the surface where the radiator goes with a long straight edge, to see if it is flat. I think I suggested it before.
They have said on here before to use Permatex Aviation Form A Gasket on the radiator gasket. It also works on the engine head bolt threads. It is a non hardening liquid. They sell it at NAPA, and probably other places.
Below is a picture of it. It has a brush under the cap, the last I know of. Stir it before using, it can settle in the can sitting.
 

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Glen said:
The new paint looks good in your picture.
You didn't say if you checked the surface where the radiator goes with a long straight edge, to see if it is flat. I think I suggested it before.
They have said on here before to use Permatex Aviation Form A Gasket on the radiator gasket. It also works on the engine head bolt threads. It is a non hardening liquid. They sell it at NAPA, and probably other places.
Below is a picture of it. It has a brush under the cap, the last I know of. Stir it before using, it can settle in the can sitting.
Click to expand...
No I didn't check it yet with a straight edge but I will before I put the radiator on. If it is pushed up in the middle there isn't much I can do about it anyway.
 
Glen said:
The new paint looks good in your picture.
You didn't say if you checked the surface where the radiator goes with a long straight edge, to see if it is flat. I think I suggested it before.
They have said on here before to use Permatex Aviation Form A Gasket on the radiator gasket. It also works on the engine head bolt threads. It is a non hardening liquid. They sell it at NAPA, and probably other places.
Below is a picture of it. It has a brush under the cap, the last I know of. Stir it before using, it can settle in the can sitting.
Click to expand...
Quick question glen, why would you use it on those bolts?
 
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