tt350chevelle
New member
New owner of a 47 Cub, being that I live in Canada, I was wondering where other Canadians are getting parts? Thanks. Brad.
I am in Canada as well. I buy most of my parts from TM tractor in Maine and JP tractor in Missouri. Unfortunately, I’ve found few parts available here that are as good of quality as these two suppliers. Steiner has some re sellers in Canada but quality is very hit or miss. US postal service saves some money on freight but has increased greatly the last few years unfortunately.Also if you're looking for used parts the classified forum THE VINE is a possible source. Several forum members sell used parts as well as the forum sponsors Hamilton Bobs and JP Tractor. If you get a parts manual so you have the correct part numbers you can search the internet by using the part numbers. JMHO Stan
Well that’s a good question. If that’s stated clearly on the customs form, it should be zero. Problem is there’s some inconsistent application of GST (Canadian general sales tax) That’s usually the killer on new parts. The alternative is to take a chance and not insure it, and put a low value on parcel. Most businesses are reluctant to do that, plus if it gets lost your out a good chuck of change.This is just a question.
If I had a part you needed, let’s just say a j4 magneto and I wanted to give it to you and ship ups how does that work as far as import tax etc.f
Thanks for the reply. Main reason in asking was an small parts would you get in trouble shipping ther or do gifts have to pay the taxWell that’s a good question. If that’s stated clearly on the customs form, it should be zero. Problem is there’s some inconsistent application of GST (Canadian general sales tax) That’s usually the killer on new parts. The alternative is to take a chance and not insure it, and put a low value on parcel. Most businesses are reluctant to do that, plus if it gets lost your out a good chuck of change.
There's been a lot of them fixed with the brace, (should have one on each side) and are still running. Supposedly the revision to the design fixed the problem, the revision is coded into the block part number that's cast into the block as a suffix (R2). FYI, the last revision was R8 in mid 1970's. I'm not sure if the first edition part was coded R1 or not but my guess would be no. You could look at your engine block and see if it's there. The parts manual might also tell you. A seized block that only has the pistons for 200 would be a little high for me when you can get a short block ready to rebuild for about $350-$400. For me a block like that is worth scrap metal price because you don't know if you are getting anything that's usable. The C60 engine is not a sleeved block so you might have to destroy the pistons to get them out then machine shop work to fit pistons will run about $100 each in my area. You can see that the $$$$ count up pretty quickly when you start doing a rebuild. If the engine is running and can be welded and braced I would go for that. It's a lot less coins for a bunch of unknowns with another block. Good Luck and oh BTW, welcome to the forum and the Wonderful World of Cubs!!! StanThanks Stan, I was pretty excited to find the first year Cub, now I'm a little disappointed it wasn't a couple years later...lol. I was already thinking about some type of bracing for the block, after I weld it, and will check the forum for that thread. Thanks again.
PS: Did the R2 block actually solve the problem? I found a gentlemen that has a "block", it is stripped and there is no head or pan (or anything really) and the engine is seized, don't know what version it is, or if I could even get the pistons out. He wants a couple hundred dollars for it and he is a couple hours away so it is not a simple "cross the street" to go check it out, but Io sent a message to see what version the block is.
Hi,I'm not sure if the first edition part was coded R1
The database shows the 251341R8 block was first used in 1964. That block was changed at the lower oil filter housing area, to make more room for the slightly bigger diameter 12 volt starter.FYI, the last revision was R8 in mid 1970's.
Well, a lot can happen in about 75 years............... The broken front ear (and maybe other things) can happen when unusual stress is applied to the front end of the tractor. That's why occasionally you will see a warning to not attach anything for pulling to the front of the tractor. ALWAYS attach to the rear or a solid casting and exercise extreme caution as cast metal will not tolerate sudden, extreme pressure without possible damage. JMHO Stan..............I don't quite understand how this happened?....................