Waking up the ol' Cub

[Glen]

Hi,
If it is a 1951 Cub, the wiring is different than it shows in the 1949 Cub owner's manual that I posted on page 1 of this post.
In 1950 IH changed to the voltage regulator on Cubs, and the Battery Ignition unit, but a magneto was available also, it could have either one.
The voltage reg is mounted on a bracket next to the generator, not on top of it like the Relay was.
Below is the 1955 Cub owner's manual, they had the same charging system as a 1951 Cub had.
It also shows the battery Ignition unit. You should check the points and other ignition parts, the points get old and burned from use. Cubs start and run better with new smooth points.
It shows the Battery Ignition unit points on page 41.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

TM Tractor has new points, so does NAPA, they are CS 1600 at NAPA.
The listing show you what they look like.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/367fp.htm

[Willy]

Thanks! It had a 12 volt conversion during the "restoration" and now uses a Delco 10SI one wire alternator. On the rewiring, I'm just taking one old wire at a time and making a new one to match it with new clamp on ends and then shrink tubing them for better moisture resistance. I used to do the same with old British motorcycles back in my young and dumb days, except back then it was wrapping the ends in electrical tape..

It doesn't have the magneto like the old Super C I grew up with. And I think dodged a bullet with the battery as after all that sitting there in the battery box for years. It's still holding almost 13 volts since I charged it up the other night.

I hit the hydraulic fluid jackpot this afternoon. I found an unopened 5gl bucket of Hy Trans in a corner of the barn where my father in law used to park and work on his tractors. He farmed with a Super A and another Cub. My Cub was his "Sunday go to meeting" one.

[Willy]

On the wiring, I'm going mostly by how it was wired already. It was working like that so why mess with the layout? But I did change one thing in the always hot section. The wire that supplied power to the ignition switch was coming up straight from off the starter battery cable connection. The light switch came off of the ammeter. I prefer to have one wired so that all the power used come through the ammeter. Now if the ignition switch is on, it should show some discharge on the ammeter. And from the ignition switch, it's running to the coil and the light switch. If I've got it messed up, it's got a fuse now so hopefully it won't let too much smoke from out of the wires.

The old cloth wrapped wires were run a little different from what I've seen on the wiring diagrams for an old 6v Cub and the guy that did the 12v conversion apparently just did the minimum to the wires for it to work. When my father in law got it back from him, the ammeter was working backwards. I figured that with the change of polarity from positive to negative ground was why, so I reversed the wires on the ammeter and it worked fine after that.

[Glen]

Hi,
Sounds like you are making progress.

If you need to use the can of Hy-Tran fluid, and it is old, I would pour out some in a clean can and look at it before putting it in a tractor hydraulic system. Hy-Tran fluid absorbs water, even from the air over time, and will turn cloudy looking. I have seen it before, in a can I had.
It would be better to buy new fluid if it looks bad.

[Willy]

I haven't opened the bucket yet, but I'll look it over good when I do. It's still factory sealed, so hopefully it'll be good.

I appreciate the tips and advice. I'm a fair mechanic on the older stuff, but not much previous experience on turning wrenches on old tractors. Just plowing with a Super C and a Cub as a teenager and that one time on this Cub's ammeter for my father in law. I guess with Farmalls, I know just enough to be dangerous.

[Willy]

Got it all wired up except the headlights and the alternator bat terminal and that wire just needs to be connected. But that's going to have to wait a bit. Seems I've got a little governor problem. The throttle lever was froze up and I tracked to the problem to the other end of the rod on the governor. The rod was froze into that lever and when I finally got it loose with lots of PB Blaster, the lever was froze too. A quick google check led me back to here and apparently it's a common problem for that to freeze up from lack of use. So, this afternoon, it's been wire something, go tap on the lever with a rubber faced hammer, more PB blaster, then back to wiring. I've got it slowing going back and forth and I'm going back out there later tonight for another turn at tapping it back and forth and adding more PB. Once it's good an freed up, I'll put the alternator back on it. I just pulled it to get it out of the way of this "precision hammer work".

I'll say this. You guys are good! Left to my own devices, I'd probably have pulled the governor and took it apart looking for something jamming up the works. Yall sure saved me a bunch of trouble.

[Glen]

Hi,
Glad you found the place the linkage was stuck, and it is loosening up.
It is common for them to get stuck there at the governor. The linkages need oiling some to prevent it.

[staninlowerAL]

......The throttle lever was froze up and I tracked to the problem to the other end of the rod on the governor. The rod was froze into that lever and when I finally got it loose with lots of PB Blaster, the lever was froze too......

Check for the clip that is attached to the head nearhr the oil filter. It provides some stability for the throttle rod to keep it from flexing too much when you work the throttle lever. It sometimes gets removed for unknown reasons. Here's what it looks like: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=98459&p=775427&hilit=throttle+rod+clip+on+head#p775427

[Willy]

While I've got the hood off, I'm going through through everything to bring the maintenance up to date. That clip is still there bolted to the head. I wasn't sure what it was for, but it's still there.

I put some of my "special recipe concoction" on it for overnight. It's good for freeing up rusted up and frozen hand tools, gonna see how it works on Farmalls.

[Willy]

Another thing I've been doing while while fiddling with everything else is getting those cultivators off before someone gets the idea that I should be plowing their garden for them. And putting the drawbar on it so I can pull that trailer. I did leave the front universal mount on and attached to the lift as I'm kind of short legged and need something to step on to get up on the "platform". That bar that the cultivators hung off of works great for that.

Still working ideas for a future 3 point hitch for it. I want to do it in a way that I can bring it back to stock if need be.

[tmays]

I would suggest contacting Barnyard and getting a step from him instead of using the cult frame as a step.

[Willy]

I would suggest contacting Barnyard and getting a step from him instead of using the cult frame as a step.

That's the eventual plan. Everything in it's time. First step is to get it running good. Then the amenities.

[tmays]

I would suggest contacting Barnyard and getting a step from him instead of using the cult frame as a step.

That's the eventual plan. Everything in it's time. First step is to get it running good. Then the amenities.

I hear ya. I usually try to shy away from trying to tell folks what to do with their own stuff. It is yours, after all. Lol

[Willy]

Hey, it's good. You did give the name for a source on the steps. I've just got my hands full on it right now with getting it back to running and it's other issues from having sat for so long. And working on it with a fixed income, along with my wanting to get it working reliably, this could end up being a long process. The steps are just going to have to wait a bit.

[Willy]

That generator arm no longer requires tapping with a hammer to move it. It's still too stiff as I have to use a long extension with a deep socket to move it, but we're making progress.