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Started the rebuild on my Woods 42 mower this week and I have it down to being sand blasted as soon as the weather's just right. This mower hasn't been used much but has set out in the weather many years. Blades and skids are like new yet and it should be an easy job....
I'll have to say I'm very disappointed in the engineering that went into the main drive unit to the blades. I would expect this on a later model MTD or Murry lawn mower but not on something built as large as this.
As you can see in the picture there's no way to adjust the bearing play in the main housing.... Just put it all together then press a collar down until you think it's right. Then tack weld the collar to the main shaft in several places expecting the heat not to draw the collar up or down. Not only that but the welding will be about 1/2 inch from my new seal.
Very poor set up in my opinion and I'm going to think a while before removing one of my 22 mowers and replacing it with this thing. The line shown on the shaft is where I cut the old weld off using a grinder with waffer discs.
Did they change this set up on the later models ?
Do the other mowers offered to cubs have this set up or do they have an adjustable nut of some type ?
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.
I put bearings on one a few years back and was also un happy with the design. I used a grinder also and cut the spot welds. Use the best bearings and seal you can get. Once it's back together regular maintainence will keep it good for 30 years Just drive the collar down until it feels right and 2 spot welds are plenty. It just takes a lil to hold it so there shouldn't be much heat. Let cool down in-between welds. They are excellent mowers for bushhoging or lower it down and you can cut grass!
Yes, I thought it was kinda odd to do it that way myself.
We used our 42 a LOT and the bearings in it lasted almost 50 years, so something must have been right about it. If you got the bearings tight, they'll last another 30-50, if you didn't they might only last 10-20....
The 59's not much better - drive out a pin, press it apart, then redrill the pin when you put it back together. Or as I did - just reuse the holes that were already there.
I think their engineering intent of it not being user serviceable is pretty clear from two quotes from the Woods 42 manual;
On Page 3
Main Spindle Assembly
The spindle assembly is equipped with two tapered roller bearings. The proper adjustment is maintained by a sleeve welded on shaft. It is not intended that these bearings be adjusted during their useful life.
Part #6919 Spindle Assembly (exploded view of spindle parts page)
When difficulty is experienced with a spindle, time and trouble will be saved by buying a complete new assembly.
I have 3 of them and have never had bearings go out on mine.--I use them hard too! PO of one of them used it to cut big saplings with , and had to rebuild top of deck, but it still mows the lawn grass, if needed! thanks; sonny
My feelings on the welded sleeve match those already stated. I believe I came up with a work around, but it has not yet been field tested so it remains expermental. The PO threw in a new spindle with my mower because the old one was bent and he never got around to doing the repair. It may have been because of the welded sleeve, which I messed up pretty bad when removing it. I had to break down and buy a new one, which was about $30 and three or four the shims offered in the parts manual.
You will note the the sleeve is a light press fit and above it sits the keyed hex drive hub, which also is a light press fit. I placed the new sleeve on the shaft, then cut the damaged sleeve to use as an extender on the new sleeve so it moved the hex drive hub up slightly beyond the end of the spindle. I then used various thickness of shim washers on the end of the spindle shaft that just fits inside the hub diameter. I placed a heavy washer that extended over the top of hub and place the end cap on top of the washer and used the center bolt to press the keyed hub, extender, and new sleeve, down against the opposing tapered bearings. I played with the shims to create the necessary pre-load. I can't say it will work, but there are shims offered in the parts manual with no explanation for their use.
From your description, it seems like your work around should be OK. The one question I thought of is whether there may be a problem with the assembly coming loose. You might want to consider adding lock-tight on the threads of the center bolt after you have your shims selected and in place.
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