49' cub wiring schematic

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49' cub wiring schematic

Postby flag » Thu May 10, 2007 8:13 am

This is a schematic I made from a template of the only close wiring diagram to my 6v system and a couple noticeable differences and was wondering if some one could tell me if I need to modify it.
1. On the amp meter picture I made a boo boo indicating the + & - lable wrong but it is how it is wired.
2. Colors in chart are not the actual colors.
3. The voltage regulator field & load are not connect to anything.
4. The head & tail lights are reversed on the light switch post connections.
5. There are no fuses except on light switch.

This is the way it was when I got it, meaning that it could be wrong :!:
Any ideas anybody :idea:

Image
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Postby TexCub » Thu May 10, 2007 8:38 am

Just as a point of comparison, I'll check my wiring to your diagram this afternoon and maybe add a schematic of my wiring. I just replaced the wiring as it was on my '53 Cub. I don't think my wiring matched any of the diagrams floating around here or in the manuals. I've got the rationale for the wiring down in theory, but I'm pretty green when it comes to this topic...
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Postby Eugene » Thu May 10, 2007 9:17 am

http://ihregistry.com/wiring/master.html

Section K has a number of wiring diagrams for the Cub. Print out sections K2, K3 and K4. Many of the diagrams are close but not exactly identical to what is currently on any given Cub.

I didn't fully check out your diagram. The generator/regulator appears to be wired incorrectly. The F wire on the generator goes to the regulator.

In your diagram the ignition switch is correctly wired for a magneto.

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Postby flag » Thu May 10, 2007 10:36 am

Eugene K2 is close to mine and that is where I found the chart that I made mine from, thanks. The light switch if different too!
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Postby Donny M » Thu May 10, 2007 11:01 am

Looks to me that what you have labeled as distributor should be labeled mag. The mag is grounded through the switch, not the distributor.
Here are a couple of schematics that are correct.

Mag early wiring:
Image
You can see that the mag wiring is completely independant from the starting/charging wiring.

Later wiring with a distributor:
Image
8)
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Thu May 10, 2007 4:54 pm

It appears to me that someone has installed a voltage regulator, but is only using it for a cutout. I have never seen this done before, but I assume it will work. Since it has a regulator on it, I would remove the connection between the F term of the gen and the light switch and replace it with one from the F term of regulator to F term of generator. Then the regulator will control the chrge rate instead of the light switch controlling it.
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Postby flag » Thu May 10, 2007 9:16 pm

Donny M, you are right...I meant the mag and thanks for the diagram.
John *.?-!.*, I will change it as you described. Thanks a mil.

Today I took the negative term off and use a digital volt meter and measure the output from the positive terminal of the battery and the negative cable and it was 13.6v-14.0v.

I thought it would be 6v?
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Postby deputy jailer » Fri May 11, 2007 1:37 am

John
Thats what I done and my generator/regulator. It seemed to work a lot better than through the switch. Either would work though :)
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Postby flag » Fri May 11, 2007 6:22 am

What happens when you leave the switch on, does it over charge battery :?:
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Postby Bigdog » Fri May 11, 2007 6:50 am

Left in the high charge position, you can over-charge the battery but it would have to be used long and hard daily in order to do that. Mowing for a few hours every week would do no harm.
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Fri May 11, 2007 7:45 am

flag wrote:What happens when you leave the switch on, does it over charge battery :?:
If you make the change I suggested, leaving the light switch in the hi position will have no effect, the F lead is what it uses to control the charge.

It sounds as if you may have a 12 volt battery in it. I have seen that done a few times, and some 6 volt generators are capable of charging a 12 volt battery, but slowly. is the regulator marked for 6 volts, or for 12 volts?
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Postby Rudi » Fri May 11, 2007 9:25 am

Guys:

Need a hand.. and maybe a quick suggestion.

Donny linked to this schematic:
Image

Bob Melville's schematic:

Image

is somewhat similar to what we have on Alde's Cub. What are the differences.. and how do I PROPERLY wire Alde's Cub.

He has the 10SI, IC-10 external coil for use with an external ballast resistor, the external ballast resistor, lights etc.... but no fuse. I gotta go get a fuse and fuse holder.. which fuse holder do I need.

Now.. what would be really useful is a combination of these two schematics for a Cub with mostly a standard installation but with the 10si and the external ballast resistor.
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Postby flag » Fri May 11, 2007 11:10 am

Thanks Bigdog, good to know this because that is what I have been doing! only a couple hours every now and then I use it.

John *.?-!.* it is a 6v battery, not sure how to tell if it is a 12v regulator though.
I am going to make the change you suggested.
The amp meter was showing charge when I put cub back together and after working in the garden for 1 hour I noticed the meter not registering charge. I noticed the middle cell of battery had trickled some electrolite out.
Thats when I checked the volts between positive side of battery and the negative cable to see if generator was putting out and it was between 13v-14v.
The cub was wired back up as it was originally. I had never checked the volts before so it may have been doing this all along. I have put several batteries in it over 4yr period (did it burn them out). So I was wandering if it was wired wrong when I got it or like you say...could it be a 12v regulator and if so, would that change the voltage to the battery?
Also can just the amp needle be defecftive and pass voltage through?

Thanks for all ya'll input helping to get this cub right!
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Postby Bigdog » Fri May 11, 2007 11:24 am

Sounds like you are definitely overcharging the battery. Find a 6 volt regulator and then re-wire the circuit and it should cure the problem. To answer your question about the ammeter - yes it is possible for the guage to not read at all and it will still pass current since it is a shunt type meter.
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Postby flag » Fri May 11, 2007 6:07 pm

Sounds like good advise... I'll get it and change wiring and then post the results.
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