which battery charger do you use

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which battery charger do you use

Postby 2 Busy » Sat Nov 25, 2006 11:49 pm

I been looking at battery charger at harbor freight and northen tool web site. Do any of yall have a favorite or one that stands above the rest? Not looking to spend over $30.00. Just a good one to use on the electrolosis(sp) tank.

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Re: which battery charger do you use

Postby Rudi » Sun Nov 26, 2006 12:45 am

2 Busy wrote:I been looking at battery charger at harbor freight and northen tool web site. Do any of yall have a favorite or one that stands above the rest? Not looking to spend over $30.00. Just a good one to use on the electrolosis(sp) tank.


2 Busy:

I posted this in answer to your previous questions in your Another electrolisis thread. I kind of hope this is what you are needing.

2 Busy:

This is what I use:

Mostly cause I use a cheap charger.. This one currently lists at $39.99 and is not on sale. Mine was on sale for $29.99 I think...

Image

Motomaster Manual Battery Charger, 6/2A

Also, here is another related thread.. Electrolysis Before and After? and the new Where Do I find TSP in the US and What Charger to Use?. They might be of some use.


and then a bit later:

By reading your post, you have a battery inbetween the automatic charger and the tank. Ok .. that works.. as long as the battery requires a charge and that is the rub..

If you want to use the tank, and get good results quickly, invest in a CHEAP charger..

Here is one comparable to the one I use..

Century Welders Battery Charger — 2/6 Amp, 6/12 Volt and it is only $29.95US...

Image

And it is not automatic... plug it in and forget it for awhile..


I went to Harbor Freight and searched Battery Chargers and these are what I found.

10/2/55 BATTERY CHARGER/ENGINE STARTER
Image
Nope.. it has the automatic feature.

Chicago 6/12 VOLT BATTERY CHARGER
Image
Nope.. it has the automatic feature.

12/24 VOLT AUTOMATIC CUT-OFF BATTERY CHARGER $39.99
12V OPTIMUM LEVEL BATTERY CHARGER $39.99
15/2/100 AMP BATTERY CHARGER $69.99

All Nope.. it has the automatic feature and are over your $30.00 limit.

And this one: 12 VOLT BATTERY CHARGER/TESTER $39.99 on sale for $29.99
Image also is automatic.

I guess the best bet will be the Northern Tool item or similar locally sourced.

Again, hope this helps...
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Postby 2 Busy » Sun Nov 26, 2006 1:08 am

Thanks Rudi,

Thats why i asked if there was something to look out for(automatic).

I don't have a battery in between my charger and tank, I have 2 chargers and used 1 to charge the battery for my electric fence. But i tried each charger on the elec tank to see if it made any difference. Both of my chargers will automatically reduce charge rate.

I just didn't know what charger would be correct for this application. Didn't want to buy another charger that wouldn't work.

I tried everything to improve my amp draw but it didn't matter they both would only draw 2 amps and most of the time less.

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Postby Cecil » Sun Nov 26, 2006 7:02 am

I use the extra charger that I got years ago at Sears. I had 2 but one was the special one that will do both 6 and 12 volts. I keep that one free so I can charge the batteries for the Cubs if I have to. Once my tank gets going it will drop to 2 amps also. But it still cleans parts with in a 24 to 48 hour period. If its taking the rust and paint off in that time frame your tank is fine.

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Postby Eugene » Sun Nov 26, 2006 8:58 am

If you have access to a junk computer. The power supply may make a good source of DC current for your tank.

Auctions and garage sales frequently have battery chargers for a couple of bucks. Even the nonfunctional chargers can usually be easily repaired.

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Postby Rudi » Sun Nov 26, 2006 9:18 am

Eugene wrote:If you have access to a junk computer. The power supply may make a good source of DC current for your tank.

Auctions and garage sales frequently have battery chargers for a couple of bucks. Even the nonfunctional chargers can usually be easily repaired.

Eugene


Eugene:

Seeing as I have like dozens of old AT power supplies.. and yes they have 12volt outputs.. but the amperage I am not sure of... might work. I have been thinking on that as a solution as well. However, one problem with junk computers.. it is usually the power supply that makes em junk :roll: :wink: :? Also, I think the computer p/s use 20ga wire????
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Postby 400lbsonacubseatspring » Sun Nov 26, 2006 10:50 am

Well....

To anyone who wants it.....I've a 12V power supply from an old RV...you'd need an ameter, and possibly some sort of potentiometer to reduce current flow, if it were too high......

I believe these things were capable of happily producing 40 or so amps in continuous service........

If this is useful to anyone, let me know, and it's yours...

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Postby kinelbor » Sun Nov 26, 2006 11:27 am

Wouldnt that kind of amparage make it clean faster? I would think that kind of power would boil the water! :shock:
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Postby Bigdog » Sun Nov 26, 2006 11:38 am

Nik - it would clean faster but unless closely monitored, it could also cause damage to the parts being cleaned. Remember, these parts are giving up particles other than just rust.
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Postby kinelbor » Sun Nov 26, 2006 12:36 pm

This is a little off topic, but is that how they chrome stuff? Use the part to be chromed as the "collector" and then put a raw piece of chromium? in and let it transfer and plate the part?
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Postby Jim Becker » Sun Nov 26, 2006 12:39 pm

Bigdog wrote:Nik - it would clean faster but unless closely monitored, it could also cause damage to the parts being cleaned. Remember, these parts are giving up particles other than just rust.

I don't believe that is correct. The anode may continue to loose some material. But the process is basicly doing reduction on the oxides coating the parts being cleaned. If the oxides are gone, the process should essentially stop, even with voltage still applied.

I may be totally wrong.

I think I saw some instructions on using a computer power supply for this process somewhere on the web. As I recall, you have to be careful about the set-up to not blow up the power supply. Evidently they fail if powered up with no load, maybe they need a load on both the 5 and 12 volt outputs.

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Postby 400lbsonacubseatspring » Sun Nov 26, 2006 12:57 pm

kinelbor wrote:This is a little off topic, but is that how they chrome stuff? Use the part to be chromed as the "collector" and then put a raw piece of chromium? in and let it transfer and plate the part?


I believe that the reaction you would get from a piece of "pure" chromium in a tank full of water would be interesting to say the least...... :D

A solution of chromium salts is the way it works.... The part to be chromed is the "anode".......

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Postby George Willer » Sun Nov 26, 2006 1:10 pm

400lbsonacubseatspring wrote:
kinelbor wrote:This is a little off topic, but is that how they chrome stuff? Use the part to be chromed as the "collector" and then put a raw piece of chromium? in and let it transfer and plate the part?


I believe that the reaction you would get from a piece of "pure" chromium in a tank full of water would be interesting to say the least...... :D

A solution of chromium salts is the way it works.... The part to be chromed is the "anode".......


My understanding is that the cathode is chromium as well. It gives up chromium ions to replace the ions in the solution that are deposited. Maybe I'll look it up. Or not.
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Postby Donny M » Sun Nov 26, 2006 2:02 pm

The part to be plated is the cathode. The anode is the metal to be plated on the part.

Jim is also coerrect in that the process of electrolysis stops after the rust is gone.
8)

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Postby 400lbsonacubseatspring » Sun Nov 26, 2006 4:07 pm

George Willer wrote:
My understanding is that the cathode is chromium as well. It gives up chromium ions to replace the ions in the solution that are deposited. Maybe I'll look it up. Or not.



You may be correct, George. My experience was from Electroplating, a similar, but not identical process.


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