How To Make Your Cub-54 or 54A Hydraulically Actuated

Fri Nov 10, 2006 10:30 pm

Hi all:

I wanted to share the following info on how I converted my snow plow to hydraulic angle operation.
I might add that I don't take credit for for the idea,but this is how I did it using these parts.
    1 - Spool 5 GPM Eaton Cessna 30921 OC Valve
    1 - 1x8x0.5 Dia. Hydraulic Cylinder
    1 - TM Tractor's Hydraulic By-Pass Block

I ordered these parts first so I knew what dimensions I needed to work with.While I waited for them, I got together these other items I would need:
    some 3/16 flat steel
    6 - 1 3/8" od x 1/2" od washers
    1 - 1/2" bolt 3 1/2" long for front cylinder mount
    1 - 1/2" nut,lock washer and jam nut for above
    1 - 1/2" pin 2 1/2" long for rear cylinder mount
    2 - 1/4" bolts and lock nuts for valve to plate mount
    2 - 1/8" spring clips

    Hose fittings
    2 - 1/4 female hydraulic couplers
    2 - 1/4 male hydraulic couplers
    2 - ST o-ring con 3/8 JIC 3/8 PS
    2 - 3/8 ST o-ring x 1/4 FP SW ST
    1 - 90 degree ST elbow 1/4 MP 1/4 FP
    1 - 90 degree MP 1/4"
    1 - 90 degree M. ELB 1/4 JIC 1/4 MP
    1 - 90 degree M. ELB 5/16 JIC 1/8 MP

Start by cutting out rear cylinder mounts to the dimensions shown. You will need 2 of them.
From rear of square plow chassis arm measure toward front 8 1/2"and mark, see here:
Line up center of hole in the bracket to the mark you made, clamp and weld.It will look like this:
Clamp lower bracket half and to help with alignment,install mounting pin and weld.

Front mount is started with a 1/2" hole drilled 4" from the edge of the blade reinforcement,
make sure when you drill the hole that you are far enough forward so the nut fits underneath, you are drilling thru a piece of angle steel. Cut head off bolt and drill hole for spring clip.Bolt to frame, jam nut on top, nut and lock washer on bottom.Place washer, 1 3/8" x 1/2 on top of jam nut then front cylinder clevis then another washer and spring clip.Rear cylinder clevis is centered in rear bracket with washers and pinned in place.When done it will look like this:

Valve mount is cut out as shown here:
and installed under steering support,original bolts will be the right length.Mount valve to bracket with 1/4" bolts.

Now on to the bypass block.Install your 90 degree fitting now as you cannot after it's mounted.Use your favorite gasket sealer, I used teflon tape and it leaked,had to drain system, remove block and use Permatex.Drain hydraulic system and mount bypass block to tractor.I then mounted all fittings to valve, cylinder,and bypass block so I could measure hose length.I ended up with an 76" an 67" and two 12" 1/4" hoses, your milage may vary!

Front cylinder hose goes to the rear outlet of the valve,the rear cylinder hose to the front outlet of the valve. These are the ports that are straight up out of the valve and are not marked on the valve. The bypass block hose goes to the valve and IS marked outlet. The last hose goes from upper 1/8" fitting on the original steel line block on the tractor see here for routing:
to the port marked inlet on the valve.

After all hoses are fitted and fluid refilled, turn over by hand to get fluid pumped into empty hoses, valve and cylinder and to check for pump dead ending.If you use this valve and cylinder and have hoses on correctly you won't have any trouble. When your done, it will look like this:

Now the rest of the family won't get upset every time you need the blade moved.

Have fun and thanks to Rudi for helping me put pictures to words.

Gary Starr :!: :D