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Can automotive automatic transmission fluid be used in in the hydraulic system in my cub? I know that the mannual calls for IH hytran fluid, but I don't have a dealer localy and have plenty of tranny fluid around the shop.
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I will let the experts answer but I always use Hytran fluid which I purchased from a local tractor dealer (not Case )
'51 Cub and a 60's Cub Lo-Boy
Jason, you will get a lot of good information here on the fluid. But if I buy a tractor and it needs fluid and I don't know what is in it, I drain it out as best as I can and replace it with Hitran. If it is a tractor for my own personal use, I go back with 30 wt. non detergent motor oil, as that is what the IH dealer sent to everyone that bought a tractor in the early 50s said. My Dad bought my Super A new in 1950 and got the flier and changed and that is what I have used ever since, as most farmers around here does. They were getting complaints about the Hyd. pump seal going bad and filling the engine with hyd. fluid. Can you use automotive transmission fluid? Sure you can, but like Matt said, go to Wally World and get some better fluid.
If you look on the container at wal mart, i believe it will indicate hy tran compatible. Nice web site!
Brute force and Ignorance.
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First, to the greatest forum on the internet, and to the Cub Family. You will find that all the folks on this forum are kind, helpful and just full of Cub info and knowledge. They also happen to be the finest folks I have ever met
Absolutely not Don't even think about it....
However, as some of the guys have said, for those who do not have a CaseIH Dealer nearby, WalMart does stock Hy-Tran compliant -- look for MSO 1209 compliancy on the side label.
If however, you do get near to a CaseIH Dealer... try to do 2 things.
1. Get a couple of jugs of Hy-Tran or Hy-Tran Ultra
2. Get a couple cases of CaseIH Low Ash 20 Weight Engine Oil.
Since we have lost our CaseIH Dealer this past fall, I now have to travel almost an hour to get to a CaseIH Dealer. But, because I have so much trust in my former Dealer and their mechanics - I trust their judgement on Oil and Fluids -- I used what they recommend and only that -- which in this case is Hy-tran in the Touch Control, 20wt Low Ash in the engine and 90wt in the tranny and rear end.
But, that is just me.
You can search the archives and there is plenty of threads discussing the various opinions on oils, additives, hydraulic fluid and such...
Ok, so here is the spiel :
I would suggest that you read this thread: New Members and Visitors, Please READ Prior to Posting. There are many great links to informative pages such as the ATIS FAQ's 1 and ATIS FAQ's 2, The Best of H.L. Chauvin who has written very interesting articles on troubleshooting common problems with your Cub.
Also, you might want to visit the Cub Manual Server as there is tons of info on servicing, maintaining and re-building your Cub. In addition to this basic information, there are also a number of other useful tools available on the server. There is the Specialty Services page which has contact info for neat stuff like getting your seats recovered, buying quality Decals, Serial Number tags and a host of other neat items. Also there are the Parts Pages - both Used Parts Suppliers and New Parts Suppliers pages with links to quality dealers. I am always looking for YOUR favourite dealers for New and Used Parts to include here. These are intended to complement the businesses who support FarmallCub.com Website.
I would also recommend that you visit Binder Books and purchase the three most important manuals you can own for Maintenance, Repair and Rebuilding your Cub. These are the Owner's Manual, the GSS-1411 Service Manual and the TC-37F Parts Manual. Although they are available on the Cub Manual Server, it is better is you also have your own paper copy. Binder Books is the only Authorized IH Publication Reprint House and they have the best quality manuals available. Most other's are not of the same quality. Just a personal thought here, the I&T Shop Manuals, although helpful in some areas, really are not sufficient for the job. If you wish though, they are good additional reference works.
IF you really want to get the skinny on all things Cub, might I suggest you get a copy of Ken Updike's Farmall Cub and Cub Cadet's . Along with Guy Fay's Letter Series Originality Guide, these are two must have's in anyone's collection.
In addition to the above information, don't forget to check out the various articles that are available to help with your Repair, Restore, Rebuild or just your Maintenance Projects. There are a number of sub pages such as Electrolysis or Rust Zapper's, Maintenance Tips, Jigs and Techniques, Implement and Part Sketches and of course the Paint, Decals & Other Finish Questions which has the Paint Chart and the Paint Committee Decisions links.
I truly hope that you enjoy your Cub and that you will be a frequent contributor to the forum. Again, to the Cub Family
I would have no trouble in my mind if you used Tranny fluid after a rebuild and continued to use that for ever. My Log splitter say you can use 30 wt non detergent oil or hydraulic fluid but not to mix and match. Problem using something off the book is to try and remember what you used. Then again the next guy is POD about the PO.
"Life's tough.It's even tougher if you're stupid."
- John Wayne
" We hang petty thieves and appoint the great ones to public office."
Thanks for all the info. This isn't my first time posting. I was a previous member and could not remember my user name or what email I registerd with. So I had to re register.
I believe older Touch Control units used non-detergent motor oil, the non-detergent part is critical. Non-detergent oils were recommended because the early detergent additives caused the oil to foam. The detergent additive worked too well by suspending air as well as dirt particles in the fluid.
Foamy oil is bad because air bubbles make a terrible lubricant and it compresses instead of transferring pressure. Just like air in your hydraulic brake system - lousy performance and spongy brakes until you bleed the air out.
Also, the rubber o-rings and seals were compatable with motor oil but melted when exposed to the new hydraulic fluids. The industry developed synthetic rubber substitutes that are compatible with most fluids.
"Chance favors the prepared mind."
- Louis Pasteur
"In character, in manners, in style, in all things, the supreme excellence is simplicity."
- Henry Wadsworth Longfellow
14 posts • Page 1 of 1
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