Farmall 140 Clutch Linkage Adjustment

[AL Farmall Boy]

So I put a rebuilt clutch disk (disk hub facing towards transmission), rebuilt pressure plate, and new throwout bearing in a 1975 Farmall 140 the other day and put the tractor back together. I didn't think anything of it but it was a little difficult pulling the 2 halves back together. Once buttoned back up, the clutch pedal had zero free play and I thought I would be able to adjust it from the rear hand-hole like it shows in the manual. I've ran both nuts forward and backwards and now they are both "loose" from the bracket on the linkage rod and still Zero free play. Looking at the throwout bearing from the other hand-hole (looking straight up) it looks like there is a 3/16 - 1/4 inch gap between TO Bearing and the rear of the sleeve it fits on. The TO bearing is pressing down on the pressure plate fingers too. I'm sure this is my problem, but now that I have the tractor split apart again, I want to make sure that I don't need to check or do anything else.

[AL Farmall Boy]

Pictures

[Jim Becker]

I don't know if there were 2 types of throwout bearing in the 140. But there definitely were in the Super A. After roughly 45 years, you could have either style in that tractor. Both the bearing and the carrier were unique to each style. Make sure you have the right style bearing for the carrier. Rephrased, did you install the same type bearing as was in there before?

[AL Farmall Boy]

I don't know if there were 2 types of throwout bearing in the 140. But there definitely were in the Super A. After roughly 45 years, you could have either style in that tractor. Both the bearing and the carrier were unique to each style. Make sure you have the right style bearing for the carrier. Rephrased, did you install the same type bearing as was in there before?

Yes sir I did. Roller ball bearing type.

I we ahead and split the tractor tonight and was going to remove that carrier assembly to put it in a hydraulic press and press that TO bearing on the rest of the way (3/16 or so). I originally installed it using a large deep socket and hammer. I found that the upper pin that holds the TO bearing carrier is different than the ones on a Super A. It is mi h shorter and is held in place by 2 cotter pins on the inside of the torque tube instead of the outside. MUCH harder to remove the cotter pins than the older style pin. I’m still working on trying to get in there to remove them.

[Jim Becker]

In that case, you may be dealing with some don't-quite-fit parts.

[AL Farmall Boy]

In that case, you may be dealing with some don't-quite-fit parts.

Surely not but I guess it is possible. I got them rebuilt (swapped out core) from a local automotive clutch shop and when I walked in the door the guy (in his late 40s) says....”what is that a Farmall Super A?” Haha, I was shocked he noticed it in my hand that easily. The TO bearing is a USA made bearing and visually matches the old one. If you look at that picture of it, I’m going to try and press it on the sleeve so there isn’t a gap and hopefully that little bit will make up for the slack I need for pedal free travel. As seen in the other picture, The linkage rod is a far back as it will go.

[Slim140]

Chase, when I put the clutch in our 1972 the other week, I was able to get some tools in there and remove the old bearing from the carrier then install the new one just hammering it on with a piece of pipe and a hammer. I would think with what you went through and pressing the pedal it would have seated the bearing all the way on the carrier. Hopefully you can get it on and not have any more problems with it. It could be like Jim said and someone let that bearing slide with a little too tight of tolerance on the bore.

[AL Farmall Boy]

Ok Shane. I guess I could always take that bearing off and look for the part number to check it. I happened to take a picture of the "new" parts I got before putting them in. Looking at the picture, The bearing says "AETNA" and "USA".

Another question, do the fingers on the pressure plate have a specific adjustment like a Farmall Cub has? I noticed that the adjustment bolts on this pressure plate APPEAR to be all bottomed out (turned all the way in). When you bolt the pressure plate and clutch disk to the flywheel I noticed that the pressure plate fingers turned inward a good bit. Not sure if that is normal or not. I'm just trying to cover all bases so I don't have to split it again.

[Slim140]

Here’s a picture of the one I took out and also the new one. Best I can remember those bolts were tightened all the way down and don’t have adjustment like a Cub. The new one even has white paint on them.

[Slim140]

Here’s a picture of the one I took out, probably original and the bolts are bottomed out.

[Jim Becker]

What I have for the Super A is the levers should be 2 3/8 above the face of the pressure plate. (Note: face of pressure plate, not of flywheel). I would imagine the 140 is the same.

[AL Farmall Boy]

Thank you Jim. I will measure that and try to get that TO Bearing fully seated. I know nothing else to check.........

[AL Farmall Boy]

What I have for the Super A is the levers should be 2 3/8 above the face of the pressure plate. (Note: face of pressure plate, not of flywheel). I would imagine the 140 is the same.

Is that with the pressure plate and clutch disk installed on flywheel? Or is that just measuring the machined surface (face) of pressure plate to fingers with the couwheel remixed from the tractor?

I tried to measure with both parts installed on the flywheel using a thin piece of steel strapping bent at 2 3/8 inches but it was impossible to get the measurement app the way to the pressure plate face with the clutch disk installed. The measurement I got with the flywheel removed was approx. 2 3/4 inches from machined face of pressure plate.

[Jim Becker]

I believe that is installed.

[AL Farmall Boy]

I believe that is installed.

Ok. That would make sense. Would the measurement taken off the tractor (not installed) be sufficient if I could get a consensus with other ones I've measured? Or are there factors that would make it vary? Shane, curious as to what your pressure plate measures off the tractor?

I want to mention that I also removed the TO bearing carrier/hanger and found that the bearing wasn't pressed on all of the way. It ended up going about 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch farther onto the carrier assembly until it bottomed out. I want to think that is/was the whole problem, but I also don't want to bolt it all back up and find that there is more to the problem.