Rusted Clutch/Brake Cross Shaft

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Rusted Clutch/Brake Cross Shaft

Postby John47 » Fri Jul 13, 2018 9:19 am

Please excuse my first post if this question has been asked.
A friend has a 47 Cub that has been sitting for about 6 years. It started and ran after some initial TLC. My question relates to the brake/clutch cross shaft. It is rusted/frozen to the rear casting. We have tried PB Blaster, heat from a propane torch, a pipe wrench and the ever popular sledge hammer.

Does anyone on this forum have a suggestion as to the procedure to release this shaft from the casting?

I had an idea that maybe using an acetylene torch on the shaft might free it but it also might change the temper of the shaft. I guess if the torch can free it, it might as well be replaced.
Inspecting the throw out bearing push rod connection to the throw out bearing also looks to be also rusted. We tried to remove the cotter pin from the clevis pin and it is rotated in the wrong place. Since the clevis pin is also rusted in place we can not turn the pin. A dose of PB was liberally applied.
It appears the only way to get to the inside of the cross shaft is to remove the hydraulic lift mechanism. Am I correct? Is the final alternative the separation of the bell housing from the engine?
Thank you for allowing me to post on this forum.
Dan Kahn

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Re: Rusted Clutch/Brake Cross Shaft

Postby Shane Nelson » Fri Jul 13, 2018 9:44 am

You can use an acetylene torch, it won't hurt it and it's been done many times on many Cubs. You can't get there from removing the touch control (hydraulics), it's solid underneath the touch control box. If you separate the tractor and work on it, be sure and read about separating the tractor and wedging the front end. Be careful if you do and remove the torque tube (bell housing) from the transmission, the rear of the tractor will have to be supported in some way.
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Re: Rusted Clutch/Brake Cross Shaft

Postby John47 » Fri Jul 13, 2018 2:10 pm

Thank you for your reply. I have watched a YouTube video on separating the engine from the trans. Not the easiest but doable. Thanks for the heads up about the touch control. I would have taken it all apart and then discovered it was closed. I think I would have been quite annoyed.
I'll relay the idea of the torch as the method of freeing the shaft. I think the owners son has a torch he can borrow.

Thanks again.
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Re: Rusted Clutch/Brake Cross Shaft

Postby staninlowerAL » Fri Jul 13, 2018 3:29 pm

You should avoid trying to drive the shaft out by hammering on the end. That will cause the shaft to "swell" and greatly increase your problem.

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Re: Rusted Clutch/Brake Cross Shaft

Postby Glen » Fri Jul 13, 2018 5:38 pm

I guess you are talking about the shaft that goes through the clutch housing casting, and works the left brake.
If it is stuck, don't put a wrench on the flat piece of metal that the left brake rod attaches to, I think I saw a post on here where someone did, and broke off the flat piece of metal from the shaft.

If you split the Cub, you need to make 2 wooden wedges that will fit tight in the front axle pivot, and put in before splitting the Cub. Cubs have more weight on the left side, and can tip over when splitting them, without wedging the axle. Hammer the wedges in tight, and check them some during the work, to be sure they don't loosen.
The clutch throwout bearing holder should feel solid side to side, it has to hold the bearing in 1 position. There should be very little play side to side, on the top pin, visible in the pic below.
The pin and the holes in the bearing holder can wear, then the pin needs replacing. TM Tractor at the bottom of the page has them, they also have a new holder, but not the 1st style of holder, used in 1947, up to Cub serial number 32229.
The first style of holder seems to be hard to find, I have read on here. Other people have written on here that when the holes were worn on one of the 1st style holders, they had the holes welded up, and remade the holes the right size.

The material sticks out of a new throwout bearing 5/16", if the bearing it has is worn much, and you have it apart, I would put in a new bearing.
Below is a listing at TM Tractor for a new throwout bearing. The guys on here recommend soaking a new bearing in light motor oil for a day before putting it in, and grease the grease fitting also. The graphite material absorbs lube.

Below is a pic from TM Tractor of how they look under the Touch Control.
The 2nd pic shows inside the front of the clutch housing.
The 3rd pic shows the wedges. :)
Cub clutch housing.jpg
Cub clutch housing 3.JPG
Cub wedges 2.jpg

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Re: Rusted Clutch/Brake Cross Shaft

Postby inairam » Sun Jul 15, 2018 9:10 am

What I did was remove the paint from the shaft on the left side of the tractor opposite the pedals. Put some penetrating oil everywhere. Remove the set screws on pedals and oil inside the hole.

On the left side of the tractor drive the shaft IN toward the pedals. Make sure the paint is off of on the shaft. Oil more everywhere. If you hit the shaft with the hammer directly grind off the mushroomed end near the pedals. Use hardwood dowels (Home Depot I cut the dowels 6", 9", 12" lengths) to drive the dowel and shaft through.

Patience is key here. This is one of the least rewarding projects on the Cub in my opinion. Right up there with adjusting the clutch from the access hole.
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Re: Rusted Clutch/Brake Cross Shaft

Postby AL Farmall Boy » Mon Jul 16, 2018 12:59 pm

You can also use a brass drift to drive the shaft without mushrooming it.
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