This site uses cookies to maintain login information on FarmallCub.Com. Click the X in the banner upper right corner to close this notice. For more information on our privacy policy, visit this link:
Privacy Policy

NEW REGISTERED MEMBERS: Be sure to check your SPAM/JUNK folders for the activation email.

farmall h electrics

Farmall H, HV & Super H, 300 & 350, 1939-1958
Forum rules
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
mario
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 16
Joined: Sun Mar 15, 2009 10:29 pm
Zip Code: 44026

farmall h electrics

Postby mario » Wed Apr 25, 2018 7:52 am

Maybe someone can shed some light on a problem with a farmall h; sorry, no farmall h forum. Tractor has stock 6 volt ignition. Upon starting, at times, no responce at all from starter button; dead. The remedy is to loosen the starter motor bolts, slightly wiggle starter, tighten bolts and press to ignition.. The starter motor has been rebuilt. Maddening! Any thoughts?

SPONSOR AD

Sponsor



Sponsor
 

User avatar
Urbish
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 2428
Joined: Sat Sep 07, 2013 3:45 pm
Zip Code: 48158
Tractors Owned: ~
1958 International Cub LoBoy
1947 Farmall H
1946 Farmall B
1953 Willys CJ3B
2022 Massey Ferguson GC1723E Subcompact

Cub Loboy L-54 Leveling and Grader Blade
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Manchester, MI

Re: farmall h electrics

Postby Urbish » Wed Apr 25, 2018 10:21 am

I would guess that you have a high resistance connection somewhere in the circuit. Given your remedy, I would suspect that the body of the starter is not grounding good against the tractor. The 6V setups require a lot of amperage, and are more sensitive to high resistance connections than a 12V system. You can use a multimeter set to show resistance to check point to point along the way. Or the contacts in your starter button are going bad. You can check that by jumping the cable terminals on the back side of the button with a screw driver.
Jim

Circle of Safety

Jim Becker
Team Cub
Team Cub
Posts: 17240
Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:59 pm
Zip Code: 55319
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: MN

Re: farmall h electrics

Postby Jim Becker » Wed Apr 25, 2018 12:34 pm

It could be a bad connection of the cable connecting to the starter. Try jiggling the cable without unbolting the starter and see if that makes a difference.

Do you get some noise from it on the first hit of the button? Maybe the drive gear is jamming in the ring gear. If so, loosening and jiggling will shake it loose. The problem is either a defective Bendix drive or battered teeth on the ring gear.

mario
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 16
Joined: Sun Mar 15, 2009 10:29 pm
Zip Code: 44026

Re: farmall h electrics

Postby mario » Fri May 04, 2018 10:58 pm

OK, so maybe its not an electric problem. I need any feed on what is the potential of increased plug fowling as a result of years of unleaded fuel use. This is a friends tractor, and in my own I'm fairly consistent about using lead additives to fuel. My "M", cub, willys, and old ford all run well. All 12 volt converted. My friend "H" is still 6 volt. Ive heard that unleaded fuel will cause valve problems leading to maybe sloppy combustion sealing at the valves. He gets ignition once and then future attempts at starting result in much cranking, weakening battery, eventual worn battery, and no start. Plug exam yields black carboned electrode. My guess is bad valves do to years of unleaded ethanol based fuel.

Any thoughts?

User avatar
Slim140
5+ Years
5+ Years
Posts: 4908
Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2017 6:24 am
Zip Code: 00000
Tractors Owned: .
1970 International 140
1972 International 140
1949 John Deere A
1993 Ford 4630 W/Loader
1965 John Deere 110
1961 Cub Cadet Original
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: farmall h electrics

Postby Slim140 » Sat May 05, 2018 2:35 am

Lead doesn’t help, there’s been many discussions here about it and 99.99% of the people don’t run it and have no problems. Here’s one viewtopic.php?f=1&t=99598&p=786015&hilit=Lead+additive#p786015
Every home is a school, what are you teaching?

Circle of Safety

Jim Becker
Team Cub
Team Cub
Posts: 17240
Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:59 pm
Zip Code: 55319
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: MN

Re: farmall h electrics

Postby Jim Becker » Sat May 05, 2018 8:30 pm

Shane is right. All the fake lead additives do is clean out your wallet. Plugs actually stay clean longer with unleaded gas. The black deposits on the plugs are unburned carbon. Either the plugs have simply been in there too long without cleaning or the heat range isn't high enough. Clean them or replace with something in the heat range of a Champion D-21. Maybe the tractor just needs a good old fashioned tune-up.

User avatar
pokitisme
5+ Years
5+ Years
Posts: 131
Joined: Sat Oct 07, 2017 8:34 am
Zip Code: 64132
Skype Name: Pokitisme
Tractors Owned: 1948 international Harvester Farmall h
Location: Kansas City Missouri
Contact:

Re: farmall h electrics

Postby pokitisme » Mon May 07, 2018 5:18 pm

Well coming from a Layman's point of view here. I found with my Farmall H that the simplest problem was probably the most accurate problem. Take all of your connections clean the hell out of them. I know it sounds maddening and even though they're shiny they still may not be clean get some kind of rotary wire brush and brush the hell out of those things. All connections. and also watch about over tightening bolts I know you might be thinking if I tighten the bolts on the push button starter just a bit tighter that might work but that can damage your starter. It will pull the bolt out and break it internally. By over tightening. Also as I had various other problems you might want to check the resistor and make sure that's not damaged. And like they said use a Multimeter watch a few YouTube videos on checking continuiti and using a multimeter to guesstimate power. Also in my case I use a 12 volt tester I'm not sure if that would work in your case but it did work very well for testing connections. Also look into the advice that the regular guys on the formed give it does help out.
Favorite quotes by me. If you want to you can but if you don't you wont... most possibly yes but maybe no.... and as always buy guns keep America free

Bigsaw70
5+ Years
5+ Years
Posts: 1
Joined: Tue May 29, 2018 12:25 pm
Zip Code: 60102

Re: farmall h electrics

Postby Bigsaw70 » Tue May 29, 2018 12:41 pm

I'm brand new here and am hoping I'm posting this in the right part of the site. My father in law has a Team all model G that he had sitting outside on a farm for a lot of years ,it can when last used a few years ago. He started working on it by having the carb rebuilt, thank flushed online fuel filter and new 12 volt battery. There was no spark, so he changed out the plugs,cap wires,points,rotor and condenser. The tractor will not get spark. I was there yesterday looking at it and had a 12 volt test light. Three was power going through a resistor,to the coil. The points were tapped at 20,000ths. I checked both terminals on the coil by grounding the rest light to the negative battery terminal, I was getting juice to both terminals on the coil. Is it supposed to get juice to both sides and anyone have any suggestions where to go from here? Thanks

User avatar
pokitisme
5+ Years
5+ Years
Posts: 131
Joined: Sat Oct 07, 2017 8:34 am
Zip Code: 64132
Skype Name: Pokitisme
Tractors Owned: 1948 international Harvester Farmall h
Location: Kansas City Missouri
Contact:

Re: farmall h electrics

Postby pokitisme » Wed Oct 03, 2018 10:42 am

Bigsaw70 wrote:I'm brand new here and am hoping I'm posting this in the right part of the site. My father in law has a Team all model G that he had sitting outside on a farm for a lot of years ,it can when last used a few years ago. He started working on it by having the carb rebuilt, thank flushed online fuel filter and new 12 volt battery. There was no spark, so he changed out the plugs,cap wires,points,rotor and condenser. The tractor will not get spark. I was there yesterday looking at it and had a 12 volt test light. Three was power going through a resistor,to the coil. The points were tapped at 20,000ths. I checked both terminals on the coil by grounding the rest light to the negative battery terminal, I was getting juice to both terminals on the coil. Is it supposed to get juice to both sides and anyone have any suggestions where to go from here? Thanks



I believe you will get juice to both sides of the coil. It's been awhile since I actually had to do any work on mine but if I remember correctly both terminals of the coil will read electricity.
Favorite quotes by me. If you want to you can but if you don't you wont... most possibly yes but maybe no.... and as always buy guns keep America free

staninlowerAL
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 4975
Joined: Fri Oct 29, 2010 11:34 pm
Zip Code: 36558
Tractors Owned: Cubs: (3)'49's, (1 is for parts), (1)'57 IH Cub LoBoy w/FH, (2)154 Number Series Loboys, (1 is for parts), '76 Longstripe w/FH, Mowers: C-22, Bush Hog 412, Pennington 59, Woods RM42CF, Woods 42, assorted FCub plows, planters, discs, etc. OTHERS: '49 AC B & Ind. Sickle mower, '61 AC D12 Ser 2, '52 8N, '56 Ferguson 35 Deluxe, '47 & '49 Avery V, '53 MM BG (offset), '51 JD M (regular), '56 JD 420C, with Blade and fire plow, '85 JD 850 (Yanmar) w/72" belly mower, '76? Yanmar 2TR15 1500 & Bush Hog SQ42S-2 mower, '78? FORD Dexta, '86 FORD LGT14D & 48" Mower, (2)Cub Cadets & Mowers (MTD), (4) Sears Surburban's, other MTD mowers, Jeeps & other misc. "treasures"
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: AL (Southwest)

Re: farmall h electrics

Postby staninlowerAL » Wed Oct 03, 2018 1:00 pm

Bigsaw70 you will probably get better response by starting a new thread but my guess is the points are not firing when they open and close. The contacts have to be clean and not pitted or burned. You can test this by removing the wire from the coil to the distributor and connect your test light to the wire. If the light blinks when the engine is turning with the switch in the on position, clean or replace the points.
Stan in LA (lower AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)


Return to “Farmall H, HV, Super H, 300 & 350”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests