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RUSTY BOLTS / RUST REMOVER / GAS TANK CLEANER

Any other helpful tips you may have.
Jim Becker
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Postby Jim Becker » Fri Sep 09, 2005 9:26 am

Just hold it over something rusty when you pour.

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Arizona Mike
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1947 Circle series Farmall Cub with Armstrong lift, belt pulley, 5"rims 6" tires, SN 563

1949 Farmall Cub with high crop option and hydraulics

1955 Farmall Cub with fast hitch

1955 International Cub Loboy with fast hitch

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Postby Arizona Mike » Fri Sep 09, 2005 10:20 am

Country..We'll miss you a C'rama :( Maybe you will show up 8)

Those micro oilers from Kano are made of a plastic that don't like Kroil. After a few weeks the Kroil reacts with the plactic and everything schrivels up. It will still work but dosen't hold too much. Use a syringe to fill the micro oiler or small oil can :)
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Postby johnbron » Fri Sep 09, 2005 10:45 am

:P I just got 2-cans of spray can Kroil that My son sent to me. I sprayed my stuck valve stems and waited about 5 minutes and they were stuck no-mo. Put the valve cover & carb back on and heard this engine run for the first time since I got it. "SO" that sold me on any doubts I had on all this talk about how great Kroil is. Now if it will unstick my cranks swivel-handle I will be happier yet. Stuff smells good also. :P
Then came Bronson

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Postby 'Country' Elliott » Fri Sep 09, 2005 1:00 pm

Hey Carm...Ya know Son...You're RIGHT! :roll: I'll just bet ya that those sneaky little Kano Labs White Coated Engineers designed that "dern" gallon can with just that in mind..."Spill More Means Sell More"! :P :P Well...I'm NOT gonna let them git away with that for one "Volunteer Moment"!!! :x

I'm a puttin' on my "Thinkin Hat" (no Jim...NOT "Stinkin' Hat") and I'll come up with an "iddee" to solve this Kroil-D-Lemma! :wink: "FILM AT ELEVEN" :wink:
"Save The Possums...Collect The Whole Set"
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Jim Becker
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Postby Jim Becker » Fri Sep 09, 2005 2:04 pm

How about one of those pumps they sell for gear oil? They are plastic so maybe the Kroil will eat them up too.

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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Fri Sep 09, 2005 2:12 pm

country, don't hold it with the opening on the low side when you pour. Pour it with the flat side of the can donw, and the spout on the high side. Learned that from puring such things as coleman stove fuel.
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1 A.H. Patch #1 Grist Mill
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Location: TN, Loudon (near Knoxville)

Postby 'Country' Elliott » Fri Sep 09, 2005 4:01 pm

Hey guys...BOTH good ideas :D Jim I LIKE that gear oil pump idea. I was thinkin' about the large pump that you git with a jug of GOJO...that might work too! :wink: I'll try em' and report back. I don't think the Kroil will desolve plastic...besides, it's only gonna be used for pumpin' it out...I won't leave it in the Kroil the rest of the time. :D
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Postby Carm » Fri Sep 09, 2005 5:27 pm

Country, thats what happens when marketing folks design the cans. If the engineers designed the cans, then you wouldn't be able to maintain or open them easily :D

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Postby Dale51 » Fri Sep 09, 2005 7:42 pm

'Country' Elliott wrote:Hey guys...BOTH good ideas :D Jim I LIKE that gear oil pump idea. I was thinkin' about the large pump that you git with a jug of GOJO...that might work too! :wink: I'll try em' and report back. I don't think the Kroil will desolve plastic...besides, it's only gonna be used for pumpin' it out...I won't leave it in the Kroil the rest of the time. :D


KROIL will not hurt plactic I get mine by the Gal. from a local scorce
and it comes and stays in windshield waser fluid jugs.
got some in a jug thats been there 3 years


AS for your GOJO pump not for long KROIL does funny things to pump bottles.
after a month or so they quit working

I use a refillable spray can.
If it's been broken I did it.
If its not broken wait till I touch it.

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Arizona Mike
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Tractors Owned: 6 Cubs and no mas.

1947 Circle series Farmall Cub with Armstrong lift, belt pulley, 5"rims 6" tires, SN 563

1949 Farmall Cub with high crop option and hydraulics

1955 Farmall Cub with fast hitch

1955 International Cub Loboy with fast hitch

1957 Farmall Cub with fast hitch

1959 Farmall Cub with fast hitch
Location: way high up in the Huachuca Mt. at the bottom of a deep dark canyon

Postby Arizona Mike » Sat Sep 10, 2005 2:14 pm

JB, I used Kroil to help free the rusty swivel on my old crank. Put it into a small vise and used that micro oiler to put small amouts of Kroil on each end..one end at a time. let each end soak for a couple of days, then put it between two 1/4" steel plates and popped it with a small sledge a few times...then back in the vise for more kroilin...then pound it again..you get the picture i think. I want to put a good steel top on my outside workbench for pounding on tie rods. Ralph has had good success by hammering/kroiling them on his steel top bench.

Even though the micro oiler will shrivel up its still worth the $5.00. It will save you more than $5.00 in wasted Kroil in the first can, just have to fill it up more often. I spoke to the owner on Kano before buying them about this and their Krean, forgot his name now. I asked him if the Kroil would work with thw micro oilers. He said it would. I have told them about the problem of them reacting with the Kroil and they said they would look for a different vendor. The small rubber ear suringe I got at Walgreens for $1.99 is holding up fine and is simple and easy to use to fill the little tube on the micro oilers.
"The time you spend making sure you are safe is probably the most productive time you can spend!"
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Postby George Willer » Sat Sep 10, 2005 3:03 pm

'Country' Elliott wrote:SADLY Mike...The Kroil folks have made one BIG error! Everytime ya try to POUR your Kroil from the gallon can into the handy Kroil squirt oiler...you LOOSE about a quart on the work bench! I wish they'd invent a handy Kroil Pump (guess I'll have ta do it myself)...Will report back later with a FIX for this! :wink:


Hey Country... if you don't let it get LOOSE, you won't LOSE it. :lol:
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Postby johnbron » Sat Sep 10, 2005 11:03 pm

Arizona Mike wrote:JB, I used Kroil to help free the rusty swivel on my old crank. Put it into a small vise and used that micro oiler to put small amouts of Kroil on each end..one end at a time. let each end soak for a couple of days, then put it between two 1/4" steel plates and popped it with a small sledge a few times...then back in the vise for more kroilin...then pound it again..you get the picture i think.



Mike I soaked this handle for 3-days and even heated it to where the Kroil was bubbling out the end. This crank I am working on is for a JD. LA tractor and the handle only has one open end. The butt end is closed and a domed shape. Best way I can describe it would be to compare it to a cigar tube over the handle end of the crank. I think the big sticking problem with trying to get it to turn is that there is a couple of dents in it that might be locking it from turning.
Then came Bronson

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Re: RUSTY BOLTS / RUST REMOVER / GAS TANK CLEANER

Postby Boss Hog » Sun May 28, 2006 9:40 am

'Country' Elliott wrote:I know the guys will ONLY cut me A LITTLE SLACK when I talk about the MANY benefits of KROIL (http://www.kanolabs.com) in Nashville, TN.

If you've got RUST...GET KROIL! :wink:

1) Rusty wheel rims?...Spray KROIL right on your sandpaper and watch the rust dissolve. Works GREAT on removing ANY form of surface rust! :D

2) Rusty gas tank?...KROIL and pea gravel in your tank (after you've drained the gas & removed it)...just slosh it around in the tank for a few days...remove...let dry...then seal with commercial tank etcher & sealer. :D

3) Rusty bolts & nuts?...Spray on KROIL, or soak them in it for a day or two. KROIL removes & dissolves the rust. :wink:

4) Seized rings or pistons, or valves? :cry: ...KROIL poured through the spark plug holes (seeps past the rings and dissolves the rust). Spray it on stuck valves, or valves springs...STUCK NO MORE! :D


Hi Where can i get this KROIL
Thanks David
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Postby Bigdog » Sun May 28, 2006 10:00 am

Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.

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