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Differance 1 & 1A tiller

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pharmerphil3
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Differance 1 & 1A tiller

Postby pharmerphil3 » Wed Feb 26, 2014 8:21 pm

What is the differance between a Cub Cadet 1 tiller and 1A tiller? Will a 1A fit a Cub Cadet 100?

Thanks for your time,
Phil

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gitractorman
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Re: Differance 1 & 1A tiller

Postby gitractorman » Thu Feb 27, 2014 7:40 am

I believe the only difference is the Model 1 tiller did not have the available tine extensions that the 1A did. Otherwise they are the same. Yes, either should work on the 100.
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pharmerphil3
10+ Years
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Posts: 954
Joined: Sat Apr 22, 2006 11:10 am
Zip Code: 06468
Tractors Owned: 1948 Cub
1955 Cub
1961 Cub
1963 Cub
1964 Cub Cadet 70
1969 Cub Cadet 125
100 Spreader
144 Cultivator
3 Field Cultivator
22 Sickle Mower
193 Plow
54-Plow
59 Wood's Mower
2030 John Deere
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: CT, Monroe

Re: Differance 1 & 1A tiller

Postby pharmerphil3 » Thu Feb 27, 2014 9:14 am

Thanks! :worthy: !!

Smokeycub
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Re: Differance 1 & 1A tiller

Postby Smokeycub » Fri Feb 28, 2014 10:56 am

I found this video on model 1 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q0KwVn2To0Y
Ray
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Re: Differance 1 & 1A tiller

Postby RAYAR » Sun Jul 06, 2014 1:24 pm

The only thing I can find different is an update and recommended idler pulley set-up change under the PTO. Both idlers with no spring tension to likely help keep slop out of the long belt to the rear angle drive gear box. ~Ray~

Smokeycub
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Tractors Owned: 48 F Cub #11678
65 Cub Cadet 104
70 450C JD loader
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72 Cub Cadet 149
54 Super C
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Ravenna, Ohio

Re: Differance 1 & 1A tiller

Postby Smokeycub » Sat Aug 16, 2014 12:12 pm

Another difference is the belt between the tiller and the right angle drive is 3/8" on a model 1 and 1/2" on a 1A. It looks like you can add one or two extensions on a model 1. The owners manual says that in hard conditions (whatever that means) at full depth not to use extensions. You can even add the covers for the extensions if you can find them. I just picked up a model 1 and the tine shaft is 1 1/4" and has holes in the outer ends to add tines on. You will need the lift bar for the tractor if you don't have it and I guess they're different for a tiller versus other implements, the hole in the end needs to be vertical for the lift chain on the tiller.

RAYAR wrote:Both idlers with no spring tension to likely help keep slop out of the long belt to the rear angle drive gear box

That's interesting, I saw that too. I wonder how difficult it would be to add a spring loaded idler somewhere along the length of the drive belt to keep things snug and not flapping so much like they seem to do on a mower deck.
Ray
Smokeycub
Attachments - 193 plow - 144 cultivator - 22 mower - 28A disc harrow - 54 leveling blade - Woods 59C2 - drag harrows - Mott D9 flail - flat belt pulley
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The squeaky wheel may get the grease but it's usually the first to be replaced!


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