Super A cracked block

[Worksmart]

Picked up a '53 Super A and it appears to be weeping coolant from the block on the left side by the carburetor, Didn't know about this potential problem as this is my first Super A after owning Cubs for a number of years. I read about it after the fact...oh well.

As I look at it closer, it looks like someone "painted" something on the side of the block at some point as it looks like brush marks. The rest of the block looks like regular cast iron with grime and age on it. No clearly visible weld. The weeper was hidden pretty well. Didn't leak either time I looked at it but once I got it home and ran it a bit it has started to leak.

I guess my options are put some JB Weld on it and see what happens, have it welded or get a new block/complete engine. I do know what the right answer is but how long or how much can I use it as is? I anticipate using this tractor for plowing snow and maybe some field work(cultivating) but my Cubs will handle most of the field work.

Looking for suggestions, thoughts or experience with this problem. General price estimates for bare/long block etc. I might have some leads on engines here in MI.

Also the thought of going with a C123 engine, I think is an option. Will that cause sheetmetal mounting problems? I think I read the C123 is taller.

Any other weak points to look at when I start looking for used engines?

Thanks
Chuck

[midmo]

I had a B farmall freeze on me one time and it cracked in the same place. Really it was like an up side down T. Made a plate out of 1/8 in. steel about an inch wider on each side of the crack. Drilled and tapped 1/4 in holes around the out side of the plate and into the block. Used Permatex to seal it to the block. Used for years and sold it when I left the farm. Never leaked and no troubles. I would try cleaning the crack real good and JB Weld it the best you can. Your just out the cost of the JB Weld if it doesn't hold.

Ron

[Jim Becker]

That is a common place for a freeze crack on that model engine. It is non-structural. Clean it thoroughly, maybe groove the crack just a little bit, put a JB Weld patch on it. You will probably never have any more trouble from it.

[Worksmart]

Thanks to both of you for your replies. I had prepared for having to get a new engine but in the back of my mind I hoped there may be an easier solution. I don't feel as bad now.

Thanks again
Chuck

[SONNY]

Mine has a big ole patch actually welded on it and does not leak,---runs ok and I am not the least bit afraid of using it this way! thanks; sonny

[Rick Prentice]

Use Jim's advice with the JB. Also use some duct tape and after you apply/wipe the JB weld in place, apply the tape over the JB and wait till the next day and simply peel off the tape. The tape holds the JB from sagging and it still cures just fine because of the hardener. You can also press over the tape to smooth out the JB underneath. Once you peel off the tape the next day, you won't have any sanding to do.
Rick

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

I was at an auction a couple years ago where there was a Farmall B (same engine as a Farmall A). The engine had a chunk, the size of my hand, located in the same spot that was held in only by silicone sealer. No leaks and the bare B brought a little over $900. The only other ting unusual about it was a single front wheel rather than the pair we normally see in this area.

[artc]

I've got an oliver 60 industrial with an old JB weld in the same area. it weeps a little, so when I've got it in the shop this winter i'll clean it good and replace the JB weld. a little paint and its good to go!