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M info needed
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 418
- Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2004 6:40 pm
- Location: Lordstown, Ohio
M info needed
Hello All,
theres a farmall super m fianlly in my barn it needs some work but i am excited about getting to bush hog around my place. is there any where online where i can get info for the m for maintenane? I figure i should ask here first!.
Thanks
John
ps Theres a custom made 3 pt hitch on it , would any body be interested in plans/pics of it?
theres a farmall super m fianlly in my barn it needs some work but i am excited about getting to bush hog around my place. is there any where online where i can get info for the m for maintenane? I figure i should ask here first!.
Thanks
John
ps Theres a custom made 3 pt hitch on it , would any body be interested in plans/pics of it?
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- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 24144
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 12:50 pm
- Zip Code: 43113
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: OH, Circleville
John, congrats on the super M! I don't know of a site dedicated specifically for them but I would think that the Red Power forum would be a good place to start.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 418
- Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2004 6:40 pm
- Location: Lordstown, Ohio
Thanks BD,
I can see why smaller tractors are selling better. This M is a big tractor and its a pain in the rear to get shipped anywhere! this one was loaded on a large flatbed tow truck from PA. (9' wide bed) Well so far i havent found anything good yet for the maintenance, I guess Rudis site has spoiled me. I will check out red power after work.
John
I can see why smaller tractors are selling better. This M is a big tractor and its a pain in the rear to get shipped anywhere! this one was loaded on a large flatbed tow truck from PA. (9' wide bed) Well so far i havent found anything good yet for the maintenance, I guess Rudis site has spoiled me. I will check out red power after work.
John
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 4954
- Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2004 3:04 pm
- Zip Code: 14559
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Rochester, NY
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 418
- Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2004 6:40 pm
- Location: Lordstown, Ohio
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- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 24144
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 12:50 pm
- Zip Code: 43113
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: OH, Circleville
John, the cap resembles a huge wingnut on the right front. Just spin it off and that's where you add the oil.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
-
- 10+ Years
-
- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 24144
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 12:50 pm
- Zip Code: 43113
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: OH, Circleville
Re: the manuals - I have always found them to be a wise and justified investment. They will save you more than their cost over time.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
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- 10+ Years
John, you mentioned changing the oil today. If you have presumably an old M original engine you've just entered the great debate zone about which oil to use. Old tractors spent most or all of their life running on non-detergent oil (sludge city) is most likely what you'll find. When you remove the filter cap you'll know if your engine is heavily sludged. Some say contiue with the non-detergent, others say switch to detergent. I don't have an answer either way but you will need to decide how your going to operate from this point further. Fully de-sludging may not ocurr until rebuild if its real bad. If this tractor has sat a long time with heavy sludge be on the lookout for trouble. Oil passages could be plugged. Just a heads up.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 418
- Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2004 6:40 pm
- Location: Lordstown, Ohio
Bill, I will be going with 30 wt oil for right now, the tractor hasnt been started in 4 years or so. The engine was rebuilt and i didnt notice any sludge build up like i found in my cub. I have started using synthetic oil in the cub for the past year and i have noticed better starts and much less oil smoke comming from the breather. My neighbor has an IT shop manual so i hope it will be of some use, and i wholly agree with you BD about the investment of the manuals. I like this M alot its such a monster compared to my cub
John
John
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 281
- Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2005 10:17 am
- Location: Wamego Kansas
Go here:
http://www.ytmag.com/farmall/wwwboard1.html
Lot of good information on Farmalls and several knowledgeable posters.
If it were my tractor I'd pull the oil pan and the valve cover and see what I had. If the tractor has been switched to detergenated oil in the past couple (or ten) years the filter assembly could appear "clean". But as I found on my 350 a massive deposit could be waiting in the oil pan for you. Pulling the valve cover give you a chance to see if there are any deposits up top and you can reset the valve lash.
http://www.ytmag.com/farmall/wwwboard1.html
Lot of good information on Farmalls and several knowledgeable posters.
If it were my tractor I'd pull the oil pan and the valve cover and see what I had. If the tractor has been switched to detergenated oil in the past couple (or ten) years the filter assembly could appear "clean". But as I found on my 350 a massive deposit could be waiting in the oil pan for you. Pulling the valve cover give you a chance to see if there are any deposits up top and you can reset the valve lash.
Freedom is for those that claim it.
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- Cub Pro
- Posts: 2575
- Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 5:25 am
- Zip Code: 37774
- Tractors Owned: 1948 McCormick-Deering Farmall Cub
152 Disc Plow & Flat Belt Pulley
Brinly #8 Moldboard Plow
1971 JD 112 Garden Tractor
1928 Economy Hit & Miss Engine
1927 David Bradley "Little Wonder" Feed Grinder
1 A.H. Patch Corn Shellers
1 A.H. Patch #1 Grist Mill - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: TN, Loudon (near Knoxville)
Hey John...I owned a 1946 McCormick-Deering Farmall "M" for years and did a lot of work on it. I agree that the VERY FIRST thing you need to do is drop the oil pan and give it a thorough cleaning...be sure to clean the the screen on the oil pick-up Flowto. It actualy sucks up the oil from the top of the oil pan so all heavier debris sinks to the bottom of the pan. Replace the oil filter too, as well as the pan gasket. BEST WISHES for you and your NEW Farmall Super "M".
Last edited by 'Country' Elliott on Sun Oct 30, 2005 4:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
"Save The Possums...Collect The Whole Set"
"Tennessee Sun-Dried Possum...Heaven In A Can"
"Tennessee Sun-Dried Possum...Heaven In A Can"
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- Cub Pro
- Posts: 28706
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 8:37 pm
- Zip Code: E1A7J3
- Skype Name: R.H. "Rudi" Saueracker, SSM
- Tractors Owned: 1947 Cub "Granny"
1948 Cub "Ellie-Mae"
1968 Cub Lo-Boy
Dad's Putt-Putt
IH 129 CC
McCormick 100 Manure Spreader
McCormick 100-H Manure Spreader
Post Hole Digger
M-H #1 Potato Digger - Circle of Safety: Y
- Twitter ID: Rudi Saueracker, SSM
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Guys:
Thanks for the kinds words, they are appreciated, both by the generous members of our community who have supplied many of the manuals, and by me too....
Gonna reiterate about the manuals on the server. They were never meant to replace or negate the need to ACTUALLY BUY a manual. They are there for the edification of our fellow Cubbers, and as a resource in determining which particular manual one might want or need.
It has always been my expectation that everyone would actually buy the manuals (usually as they can afford them) in a suitable time frame. Otherwise, BB might get upset a tad, and I don't want that....
Thanks for the kinds words, they are appreciated, both by the generous members of our community who have supplied many of the manuals, and by me too....
Gonna reiterate about the manuals on the server. They were never meant to replace or negate the need to ACTUALLY BUY a manual. They are there for the edification of our fellow Cubbers, and as a resource in determining which particular manual one might want or need.
It has always been my expectation that everyone would actually buy the manuals (usually as they can afford them) in a suitable time frame. Otherwise, BB might get upset a tad, and I don't want that....
Confusion breeds Discussion which breeds Knowledge which breeds Confidence which breeds Friendship
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 83
- Joined: Sat Nov 22, 2003 8:29 am
- Location: Iowa
The best place to get manuals and parts books is Binder Books .com.
They have all original covers and clear pages. All of the other ones I have seen are reproduced by photo copy and are not clear.
Binder uses all original books for there copies.
An M parts book will run 25.00 to 30.00.
The ones you get from Case-IH are also photo copies.
They have all original covers and clear pages. All of the other ones I have seen are reproduced by photo copy and are not clear.
Binder uses all original books for there copies.
An M parts book will run 25.00 to 30.00.
The ones you get from Case-IH are also photo copies.
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