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High Idle knock
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Re: High Idle knock
I would go ahead and pull the pan and check all journals and bearings. If a bearing is bad you may ruin the crank trying to figure it out.
"I'd rather be a mechanic in the shop"- Henry Ford
252646 & 221525. 195897 (Gone, but not forgotten)
252646 & 221525. 195897 (Gone, but not forgotten)
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'56 Cub #194370 "Boris" with Mott Flail mower - Circle of Safety: Y
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Re: High Idle knock
My '55 Cub developed a knock a couple years ago just before the Cub Tug. We dropped the oil pan, and several experienced folks took a look and wiggle and confirmed what they had suspected...#1 rod bearing was loose. I did not run it again until I had it worked on, which was fortunate, because it turned out I was able to avoid a total engine rebuild. I was able to polish the crank and only replace the bearing on #1.
I suggest you follow the above recommendations of dropping the pan, look for metal in the bottom and closely check for any play in the rods. Right now you may still be lucky.
Good luck.
I suggest you follow the above recommendations of dropping the pan, look for metal in the bottom and closely check for any play in the rods. Right now you may still be lucky.
Good luck.
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Re: High Idle knock
Youre getting some great advice....I love to see this forum work to solve a members problem....
In Memory of 58,286
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Re: High Idle knock
pickerandsinger wrote:Youre getting some great advice....I love to see this forum work to solve a members problem....
Agreed! thanks again guys. It's a beautiful morning, so i'm going to pull the pan and have a "look and a wiggle"
Hopefully I'll be the only one wiggling (with delight at not finding anything loose!)
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 160
- Joined: Wed Aug 07, 2013 10:09 am
- Zip Code: 14103
- Tractors Owned: 1955 farmall cub w/ fast hitch
Implements:
fast hitch moldboard plow
fast hitch disc harrow
front blade
Danco c-3 mower - Circle of Safety: Y
Re: High Idle knock
Ok, pulled the pan, I found one big hunk of metal.. doesn't look like a bearing to me, and none of the rods seem to have much play. what does it look like to you guys? No, there wasn't a dime in my engine, that's just for size comparison.
All of the rod bearings wiggle just a little side to side. Does that mean they all need to be replaced? or is that normal?
All of the rod bearings wiggle just a little side to side. Does that mean they all need to be replaced? or is that normal?
Last edited by Eoghan on Sun Aug 11, 2013 12:15 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 1501
- Joined: Thu Oct 18, 2012 3:23 pm
- Zip Code: 13143
- Tractors Owned: 1957 Cub Low Boy w/ FH Mott Flail Mower
1953 Cub w/ sprayer and 54A blade (Chompers)
1954 Cub w/fast hitch (Ira)
1948 Cub ( Papa Paul)with Henderson loader..
1951 Mutt mix Cub (BattleAx
1950 Farmall Cub (basket case demo)
Cub parts tractor
2019 " KuB"ota 2601 loader and roto tiller
1951 Ferguson TEA 20 (parts)( Uncle Rusty)
F/H Disc Harrow for cub L-38
C-22 Sickle Bar Mower
IH C2 and C3 mower
Universal tool attachment with disc hillers..Rear cultivators (various tips
York Rake for Cub home made
Single bottom Plow for Cub F194
Gravely 5660 12 hp/ w snoblower.rototiller,bush hog - Circle of Safety: Y
Re: High Idle knock
Looks like a washer of some type, maybe..Must have come from somewhere.....Did you check the mains by any chance...
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Re: High Idle knock
Should be a nut in there too pull the hydraulic pump and see if the nut and washer is missing, it may have been lost and repaired before. And this may be your knock.
Boss
Boss
IN GOD WE TRUST
All others pay cash
Boss Hog
Power corrupts; absolute power corrupts absolutely byJohn Emerich Edward Dalberg
All others pay cash
Boss Hog
Power corrupts; absolute power corrupts absolutely byJohn Emerich Edward Dalberg
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Re: High Idle knock
There is a slight side to side movement on connecting rods at the crankshaft.
While you have the pan off, suggest purchasing plastigage from auto parts store and gauging the rod and main bearings. Guessing plastiqage will cost about $7- for two sticks, one stick measuring .001" - .003" and the 2nd stick measuring .003" - .006".
While you have the pan off, suggest purchasing plastigage from auto parts store and gauging the rod and main bearings. Guessing plastiqage will cost about $7- for two sticks, one stick measuring .001" - .003" and the 2nd stick measuring .003" - .006".
I have an excuse. CRS.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 1501
- Joined: Thu Oct 18, 2012 3:23 pm
- Zip Code: 13143
- Tractors Owned: 1957 Cub Low Boy w/ FH Mott Flail Mower
1953 Cub w/ sprayer and 54A blade (Chompers)
1954 Cub w/fast hitch (Ira)
1948 Cub ( Papa Paul)with Henderson loader..
1951 Mutt mix Cub (BattleAx
1950 Farmall Cub (basket case demo)
Cub parts tractor
2019 " KuB"ota 2601 loader and roto tiller
1951 Ferguson TEA 20 (parts)( Uncle Rusty)
F/H Disc Harrow for cub L-38
C-22 Sickle Bar Mower
IH C2 and C3 mower
Universal tool attachment with disc hillers..Rear cultivators (various tips
York Rake for Cub home made
Single bottom Plow for Cub F194
Gravely 5660 12 hp/ w snoblower.rototiller,bush hog - Circle of Safety: Y
Re: High Idle knock
Nice catch guys
Eugene wrote:Lock washer from hydraulic pump.
Boss Hog wrote:Should be a nut in there too pull the hydraulic pump and see if the nut and washer is missing, it may have been lost and repaired before. And this may be your knock.
Boss
In Memory of 58,286
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 160
- Joined: Wed Aug 07, 2013 10:09 am
- Zip Code: 14103
- Tractors Owned: 1955 farmall cub w/ fast hitch
Implements:
fast hitch moldboard plow
fast hitch disc harrow
front blade
Danco c-3 mower - Circle of Safety: Y
Re: High Idle knock
Boss Hog wrote:Should be a nut in there too pull the hydraulic pump and see if the nut and washer is missing, it may have been lost and repaired before. And this may be your knock.
Boss
where would this nut have ended up??
How should I go about pulling the hydraulic pump? do I need to drain fluid in the system? the manual isn't too clear.
Last edited by Eoghan on Sun Aug 11, 2013 12:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 160
- Joined: Wed Aug 07, 2013 10:09 am
- Zip Code: 14103
- Tractors Owned: 1955 farmall cub w/ fast hitch
Implements:
fast hitch moldboard plow
fast hitch disc harrow
front blade
Danco c-3 mower - Circle of Safety: Y
Re: High Idle knock
Now that I look at it, I think it's been replaced recently. No paint on it!
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 160
- Joined: Wed Aug 07, 2013 10:09 am
- Zip Code: 14103
- Tractors Owned: 1955 farmall cub w/ fast hitch
Implements:
fast hitch moldboard plow
fast hitch disc harrow
front blade
Danco c-3 mower - Circle of Safety: Y
Re: High Idle knock
As a side note, I noticed some metal shavings in the bell housing... throwout bearing? I bet that's what all the noise is when it's in neutral.. do you need to split the tractor to get to that one?
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Re: High Idle knock
Unbolt the hydraulic lines at the touch control block and hydraulic pump. Bucket on floor under each connection works well. You should replace the fluid any way.Eoghan wrote:How should I go about pulling the hydraulic pump? do I need to drain fluid in the system? the manual isn't too clear.
Unbolt hydraulic pump. Check inside the front engine cover for a missing nut.
The metal shavings are probably off the pressure plate fingers or throwout bearing bracket. Noise would show up when clutch depressed, not in neutralEoghan wrote:I noticed some metal shavings in the bell housing... throwout bearing? I bet that's what all the noise is when it's in neutral.. do you need to split the tractor to get to that one?
To repair you will need to split the tractor.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 160
- Joined: Wed Aug 07, 2013 10:09 am
- Zip Code: 14103
- Tractors Owned: 1955 farmall cub w/ fast hitch
Implements:
fast hitch moldboard plow
fast hitch disc harrow
front blade
Danco c-3 mower - Circle of Safety: Y
Re: High Idle knock
Soooo... Guess what I found when I cleaned out the sludge in the oil pan? This little guy was hiding under a lot of gunk:
Turns out you guys are pretty good at identifying random torn up pieces of steel!
I didn't pull off the pump yet, and I don't have a torque wrench handy, so I didn't check the bearing clearances. hopefully i'll get to both those things soon.
I couldn't help myself, so i fired her up and the knock is still there. I can only hear it at full throttle, and only with the clutch engaged (When i let up the clutch there's some nasty noise coming from somewhere). that means I can't get off the seat and track down where it's coming from...
Tell me if i'm wrong, but i'm guessing I should probably replace the rod bearings in any case since the knock is still there and they do have some play.
I'm learning so much today, this forum and more importantly YOU GUYS rock!
Turns out you guys are pretty good at identifying random torn up pieces of steel!
I didn't pull off the pump yet, and I don't have a torque wrench handy, so I didn't check the bearing clearances. hopefully i'll get to both those things soon.
I couldn't help myself, so i fired her up and the knock is still there. I can only hear it at full throttle, and only with the clutch engaged (When i let up the clutch there's some nasty noise coming from somewhere). that means I can't get off the seat and track down where it's coming from...
Tell me if i'm wrong, but i'm guessing I should probably replace the rod bearings in any case since the knock is still there and they do have some play.
I'm learning so much today, this forum and more importantly YOU GUYS rock!
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