On one of my 184 Lo-Boy's, the shift lever has too much lateral travel through the gate from the 1st and Rev side to the 2nd and 3rd side, and won't go into the two higher gears with the trans cover on, as the lever hits the side of the slot cut in to the cover. With the cover off, the lever will engage the high gears.
Where do I need to look to fix this? Pull the shifter assy? What's worn or broke?
THANKS!!
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Too wide shifter throw:: won't go into 2nd & 3rd
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Too wide shifter throw:: won't go into 2nd & 3rd
Some of my ancestors mighta hanged by their necks, but none of them ever hanged by their tails.
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Re: Too wide shifter throw:: won't go into 2nd & 3rd
My first thought is a bent/broken 2-3 shifter fork. It is the lower one in the picture below. Second thought is the ball part on the shift lever is no longer attached. Follow this link to a picture of the part and what to do to repair it. Either way, you will need to remove the top cover from the transmission.
http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Maintenance%20Tips%20and%20Techniques/Articles%20by%20George%20Willer/Cub%20Shifter%20Repair/Cub%20Shifter%20Repair%20and%20Improvement.htm
http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Maintenance%20Tips%20and%20Techniques/Articles%20by%20George%20Willer/Cub%20Shifter%20Repair/Cub%20Shifter%20Repair%20and%20Improvement.htm
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Re: Too wide shifter throw:: won't go into 2nd & 3rd
Wow!! Great reply; thanks for the link and clear pic.
Some of my ancestors mighta hanged by their necks, but none of them ever hanged by their tails.
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Re: Too wide shifter throw:: won't go into 2nd & 3rd
I have a 184 that had the identical problem & replaced the shifter I bought used from hameltonbobs and its worked perfectly ever since,took about an hour to replace....good luck..larry
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Re: Too wide shifter throw:: won't go into 2nd & 3rd
Thanks for the help!!
As advised, the cup had come loose from the lever. Welded back in place, but now I get heavy gear clash going from reverse to 1st, or vice versa. Goes into 2nd smoothly.
Also, it will gently pop out of 1st unless you keep pressure on the handle. Is this from vibration pulling the handle downward, or again a rail adjustment not getting gears meshed enough? Very exciting when this happens going down a steep hill! Runaway time!!!
Is this a rail adjustment, clutch adjustment, or what? I realize that these have no clutch brake, and I double clutch on the reverse to 1st, so is it all related to rpm? It's a pain to reduce throttle every time you need to change directions, especially when mowing.
Becoming a aggravation that needs to be corrected with as much mowing as there is this time of year. I think that I prefer hydrostatic.
Did a search and found info on a 154 doing the same thing. Are these trannys the same?
As advised, the cup had come loose from the lever. Welded back in place, but now I get heavy gear clash going from reverse to 1st, or vice versa. Goes into 2nd smoothly.
Also, it will gently pop out of 1st unless you keep pressure on the handle. Is this from vibration pulling the handle downward, or again a rail adjustment not getting gears meshed enough? Very exciting when this happens going down a steep hill! Runaway time!!!
Is this a rail adjustment, clutch adjustment, or what? I realize that these have no clutch brake, and I double clutch on the reverse to 1st, so is it all related to rpm? It's a pain to reduce throttle every time you need to change directions, especially when mowing.
Becoming a aggravation that needs to be corrected with as much mowing as there is this time of year. I think that I prefer hydrostatic.
Did a search and found info on a 154 doing the same thing. Are these trannys the same?
Some of my ancestors mighta hanged by their necks, but none of them ever hanged by their tails.
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Re: Too wide shifter throw:: won't go into 2nd & 3rd
Yes, the trannys are the same in all the cubs, however, you're wrong about the clutch brake. There actually IS a clutch brake, and the ones on your tractor are probably shot or gone all together. There are two pucks that sit behind the clutch, so that when you depress the clutch pedal, they slow down and stop the clutch from turning. Replace those and your grinding will llikely go away.
Also, when you welded your shifter, are you certain the cup is EXACTLY in the correct position? I just re-welded one on my 154 and noticed that the cup is not ligned up 90-degrees to the shifter. It's actually tilted quite a bit, on purpose, to get the shifter angle set correctly. I can see that as a common mistake when re-welding, setting the cup so it is 90-degrees to the shifter. It's likely that welded up wrong would make it act like you are describing.
Also, when you welded your shifter, are you certain the cup is EXACTLY in the correct position? I just re-welded one on my 154 and noticed that the cup is not ligned up 90-degrees to the shifter. It's actually tilted quite a bit, on purpose, to get the shifter angle set correctly. I can see that as a common mistake when re-welding, setting the cup so it is 90-degrees to the shifter. It's likely that welded up wrong would make it act like you are describing.
Cub Cadets 682, 1811, 1864, Simplicity Legacy XL 4x4 Diesel with FEL, 60" mower, 50" Tiller
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Re: Too wide shifter throw:: won't go into 2nd & 3rd
The 184 does not have a clutch brake.
As for the popping out of gear, you either have welded the shifter guide improperly or the 1st and reverse shift fork is bent. If this issue is new since welding, I would suspect the weld. If the issue occurred prior to the welding, I would replace the shift fork.
I had to replace the fork on my 184. They also can be welded, but it is easy to replace.
As for the popping out of gear, you either have welded the shifter guide improperly or the 1st and reverse shift fork is bent. If this issue is new since welding, I would suspect the weld. If the issue occurred prior to the welding, I would replace the shift fork.
I had to replace the fork on my 184. They also can be welded, but it is easy to replace.
184 w/ Creeper & 3-Point
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IH 3160a Mower
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