Flywheel holes and "Hail Mary" fix

IH CUB LoBoy Series - 154, 184, 185 Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your LoBoy related issues.

Moderator: Team Cub

Forum rules
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.

Flywheel holes and "Hail Mary" fix

Postby dgerwig » Mon Mar 25, 2013 3:42 pm

As you can see from the included pictures, the holes in my flywheel are no longer 5/16 - they are now ovals. My question is this: what would be wrong with welding some hardened steel (represented by the piece of wood in the 2nd picture - the steel would be thicker/stronger than the size of the piece of wood) onto both of the flywheel flats and drilling then out to 5/16? Seems like this would work. Of course I would need a longer bolt. Seems like I could still tighten the flywheel onto the input shaft securely. I eagerly await feedback!


IMG_12947.jpg
IMG_12947.jpg (177.21 KiB) Viewed 590 times



IMG_12978.jpg
IMG_12978.jpg (317.59 KiB) Viewed 590 times
dgerwig
 
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Mar 17, 2013 1:13 pm
Location: Round Hill, VA
Zip Code: 20141
Tractors Owned: Cub Lo-Boy 154
Craftsman YT4500 54" mower
Wheel Horse(Kohler KT17S)

Re: Flywheel holes and "Hail Mary" fix

Postby ricky racer » Mon Mar 25, 2013 4:01 pm

Not quite sure what I am looking at in the pictures but I would not weld anything to the flywheel. Any additional weight will cause an out-of-balance situation. What you may be able to do is drill out the egg shaped hole and press in a steel bushing to repair the hole. That way you are replacing the drilled out material with the bushing minimizing the change in balance. Also, the hole looks like it's in cast iron which can be difficult to weld and sometimes or often times, cast iron will crack and break unless it is properly welded.
1929 Farmall Regular
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub
User avatar
ricky racer
501 Club
501 Club
 
Posts: 2749
Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2007 8:40 pm
Location: Niles / Buchanan, Michigan
Zip Code: 49120
Circle of Safety Award
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: Flywheel holes and "Hail Mary" fix

Postby twotone » Mon Mar 25, 2013 5:17 pm

You might try Hamiltonbobs for a good used one.


Tom
Know Your Cub, And Your Cub Will Know You.

Tom
User avatar
twotone
501 Club
501 Club
 
Posts: 1013
Joined: Sat May 14, 2011 6:09 pm
Location: Versailles,Pa.
Zip Code: 15132
Tractors Owned: 53 F Cub
73 F Cub
53 Super A With Snow/Grader Blade
193 Plow With Colter And Jointer
144 Cultivators
22 Mower
Circle of Safety Award
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: Flywheel holes and "Hail Mary" fix

Postby gitractorman » Mon Mar 25, 2013 6:26 pm

Yea, I have to agree with Ricky. No way I would weld anything to the flywheel. If you get it out of balance it could literally come apart. I cannot tell exactly what we're looking at, but if it were me, I would consider just drilling out one size larger and going with the next larger bolt. The good thing about this is you're taking out material then filling in with a slightly larger bolt, which should be a net zero change and not really affect the balance.
1951 Farmall Cub, Cub Cadets 102, 104, 1811, 1864, Simplicity Legacy XL 4x4 Diesel with FEL, 60" mower, 50" Tiller
User avatar
gitractorman
501 Club
501 Club
 
Posts: 2028
Joined: Mon Oct 24, 2005 11:35 am
Location: Grand Island, NY
Zip Code: 14072
eBay ID: toysforjake
Tractors Owned: Lots of Cub Cadets!
1951 Farmall Cub
1977 IH Cub
1966 IH Cub
1965 IH Lo Boy
1949 Farmall Cub
Several IH 154 Lo Boys
1979 IH 184 Lo Boy
Simplicity 4416 Sovereign
Simplicity Conquest
Simplicity Legacy 4x4 Diesel
Circle of Safety Award
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: Flywheel holes and "Hail Mary" fix

Postby Eugene » Mon Mar 25, 2013 7:06 pm

Now for the problem, if you drill out the flywheel you will also need to drill the drive shaft. But I wouldn't weld on the flywheel.
I have an excuse. CRS.
Eugene
Team Cub Mentor
Team Cub Mentor
 
Posts: 12131
Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2004 9:52 pm
Location: Mo. Linn
Zip Code: 65051
Circle of Safety Award
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: Flywheel holes and "Hail Mary" fix

Postby RaymondDurban » Mon Mar 25, 2013 7:16 pm

If I'm seeing the pic right, that's the flywheel on the front of the transmission, which would mean the transmission input shaft would need to be drilled out.
I'd see if I could drill the holes out and install steel bushings, and keep the original size bolt through the input shaft, or get a new flywheel from Hamilton Bob. Like the others, I don't believe I'd try to weld it.
User avatar
RaymondDurban
Team Cub Mentor
Team Cub Mentor
 
Posts: 4171
Joined: Wed Dec 26, 2007 7:45 pm
Location: CO, Peyton
Zip Code: 80831
Circle of Safety Award
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: Flywheel holes and "Hail Mary" fix

Postby twotone » Mon Mar 25, 2013 7:33 pm

I believe it takes a special bolt also, mine did anyway. Maybe it was replaced with a standard bolt that caused the problem.


Tom
Know Your Cub, And Your Cub Will Know You.

Tom
User avatar
twotone
501 Club
501 Club
 
Posts: 1013
Joined: Sat May 14, 2011 6:09 pm
Location: Versailles,Pa.
Zip Code: 15132
Tractors Owned: 53 F Cub
73 F Cub
53 Super A With Snow/Grader Blade
193 Plow With Colter And Jointer
144 Cultivators
22 Mower
Circle of Safety Award
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: Flywheel holes and "Hail Mary" fix

Postby dgerwig » Mon Mar 25, 2013 8:06 pm

Some more input on my problem and long shot solution:

Yes this is the side of the flywheel attached to the input shaft which has flat surfaces that the bolt goes through. It seems that if I were to weld pieces of exactly the same size and weight to each flat surface there would not be a balance problem. I am also wondering, as has been suggested if it would be possible to drill out the input shaft and flywheel (no welded plates) to say 11/16 or even 3/8 - I believe that would solve the problem.

I do have, among the extra parts that came with my Cub, another input shaft that is not oval shaped. Is it possible to install that shaft without splitting the tractor?
dgerwig
 
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Mar 17, 2013 1:13 pm
Location: Round Hill, VA
Zip Code: 20141
Tractors Owned: Cub Lo-Boy 154
Craftsman YT4500 54" mower
Wheel Horse(Kohler KT17S)

Re: Flywheel holes and "Hail Mary" fix

Postby ricky racer » Mon Mar 25, 2013 8:56 pm

I don't think you'll find anyone here that would recommend welding on the flywheel.Image
1929 Farmall Regular
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub
User avatar
ricky racer
501 Club
501 Club
 
Posts: 2749
Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2007 8:40 pm
Location: Niles / Buchanan, Michigan
Zip Code: 49120
Circle of Safety Award
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: Flywheel holes and "Hail Mary" fix

Postby twotone » Mon Mar 25, 2013 9:12 pm

There is no splitting a 154, it's built on a frame. I've replaced severel driveshafts on 154's and the biggest problem I had was not having hands the size of a 2 year old. That tunnel makes for some cramped working quarters. There should be manuals for the procedure on the driveshaft in the manuals section. Again, I recommend Hamiltonbobs for a used flywheel.


Tom
Know Your Cub, And Your Cub Will Know You.

Tom
User avatar
twotone
501 Club
501 Club
 
Posts: 1013
Joined: Sat May 14, 2011 6:09 pm
Location: Versailles,Pa.
Zip Code: 15132
Tractors Owned: 53 F Cub
73 F Cub
53 Super A With Snow/Grader Blade
193 Plow With Colter And Jointer
144 Cultivators
22 Mower
Circle of Safety Award
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: Flywheel holes and "Hail Mary" fix

Postby Landreo » Tue Mar 26, 2013 10:46 am

The bolt is there to keep the clamp on the driven disc tight on the input shaft of the transmission. If the bolt is tight it does not matter if the holes are exact. The disc should not rotate at all on the input shaft. Since the holes are oval then something is loose. You can tighten the bolt and try to wiggle the driven disc. If it wiggles dispite a tight bolt then the shaft is worn or the hole in the disc is worn. Without a bolt, the disc should be a tight fit on the shaft. If it is a loose fit then it may never tighten enough. The oval holes are not the problem but a sign that something else is wrong.

I think your idea would work to fix the holes but it is cast iron and can be hard to weld carbon steel to cast iron.
The oval holes means something is loose, if it will tighten then don't worry about the oval hole. If it will not tighten then get with Hamilton Bobs or others for another disc and input shaft.
Landreo
501 Club
501 Club
 
Posts: 956
Joined: Tue Oct 19, 2004 7:10 am
Location: SC, Ridgeway
Zip Code: 29130
Tractors Owned: fcub
1 cyl fcub
154
Earthmaster
JD 40MT
JD 420 crawler-loader
D-2 Cat dozer
AC Model C
Cub Cadets
Red-E
Circle of Safety Award
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: Flywheel holes and "Hail Mary" fix

Postby BigBill » Fri Mar 29, 2013 8:12 pm

Originally it's a roll pin in that hole and when it wears oblong the previous owners will stick a bolt in the hole. If you weld it you should be ok because you will replace the material that's only missing and nothing more plus being that close to the centerline of the drive shaft it should be ok. I been thinking about using a collar around the outside diameter on the flywheel hub to clamp it tight on the drive shaft too besides the tight roll pin fit. This should hold up even better and longer. I thought about this on my front loader and backhoe project for more added strength.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
BigBill
501 Club
501 Club
 
Posts: 5632
Joined: Sat Jul 22, 2006 5:02 pm
Location: in northern usa
Zip Code: 00000

Re: Flywheel holes and "Hail Mary" fix

Postby RaymondDurban » Fri Mar 29, 2013 8:41 pm

After SN 15071, a bolt was used by IH.
User avatar
RaymondDurban
Team Cub Mentor
Team Cub Mentor
 
Posts: 4171
Joined: Wed Dec 26, 2007 7:45 pm
Location: CO, Peyton
Zip Code: 80831
Circle of Safety Award
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: Flywheel holes and "Hail Mary" fix

Postby BigBill » Sat Mar 30, 2013 9:42 am

I have a 1971 154 that has a noisy flywheel that has a bolt in it. It first appear to be it's original setup. I been using the tapered dowel pins in the worn out holes on the front spindles on the cadets. Of course once there reamed. We can slot the pin ends sticking out and wire it light they do on the aircraft parts so it won't back out. O r we can make the pin ends flush and install a split collar to clamp it all together. This is we're loctite would help too. The 620 loctite will work in places with up to .015 to .020 clearances I know it won't be that loose but it's good to use the best loctite. The 620 loctite is for using on cylindrical parts. Do not use thread locker it doesn't have the cylindrical holding power. I like to repair things once and forget about it.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
BigBill
501 Club
501 Club
 
Posts: 5632
Joined: Sat Jul 22, 2006 5:02 pm
Location: in northern usa
Zip Code: 00000


Return to LoBoy Series - 154, 184, 185

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests