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Need advice on 2002 Chevy Astro AWD repairs - IT RUNS!
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Re: Need advice on 2002 Chevy Astro AWD repairs - IT RUNS!
pete, did you find out where the gas smell was coming from?
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Re: Need advice on 2002 Chevy Astro AWD repairs - IT RUNS!
Rob in NH wrote:pete, did you find out where the gas smell was coming from?
Rob,
I did not find where the gas smell was coming from. The O-rings in the fuel line connection at the rear of the engine were pretty shot and replaced with new ones included in the Fel-Pro gasket kit.
No apparent problems on the 35 mile trip to work this morning.
JackF wrote:You should not hear noise like that …Is the noise at the cap area or does it sound deeper?
Tips
Remove the cap and inspect the inside of it to see if anything is making contact, make sure the rotor is seated correctly…make sure the cap is seated correctly….wiggle the distributor shaft to see if the bushings are tight….check the distributor shaft to see if it bent.
Jack,
Noise is right at the cap. Rotor is seated, cap is seated - screws are tight. The distributo shaft has a plastic sheath from the gear teeth up to the cap.
Van runs great - no misses - plenty of power.
Peter
1957 Farmall Cub "Emory", Fast-Hitch, L-F194 Plow & Colter, L-38 Disc Harrow, Cub-54A Blade, Cub-22 Sickle Bar Mower, IH 100 Blade
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Re: Need advice on 2002 Chevy Astro AWD repairs - IT RUNS!
Peter,
You’ll hear some noise from the spark arc and that’s it. If more than normal I would do some checking…pretty cold out there to be in the shoe leather mode…
Chevy truck front wheel bearings...
This is the way I did it when I couldn’t remove them.....The wheel bearing really gets rusted into the spindles. Ignore the attitude of the man in the video; he’s really not that bad in real life….he needs to work on a couple of Fords to adjust his altitude.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Ly3pC8tzDc
You’ll hear some noise from the spark arc and that’s it. If more than normal I would do some checking…pretty cold out there to be in the shoe leather mode…
Chevy truck front wheel bearings...
This is the way I did it when I couldn’t remove them.....The wheel bearing really gets rusted into the spindles. Ignore the attitude of the man in the video; he’s really not that bad in real life….he needs to work on a couple of Fords to adjust his altitude.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Ly3pC8tzDc
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Re: Need advice on 2002 Chevy Astro AWD repairs
Eugene wrote:Local car dealerships get some of their parts from the auto parts stores.outdoors4evr wrote:Note: Using GM Parts on these engines really helps! My vehicles did not run well when I used Autozone or O'Reilley tuneup components.
Some people on here are WAY TOO CRITICAL! Sounds like you need a
I am agreeing with you. Using the OEM components usually works out the best - regardless of what is supplied at dealers. That goes for car dealers & tractor dealers.
Peter, I am very glad you got it back running again. It's nice to hear them purring rather than coughing.
184 w/ Creeper & 3-Point
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Re: Need advice on 2002 Chevy Astro AWD repairs - IT RUNS!
Glad to hear your efforts paid off on your van.
I have used the method that Jack sent you via youtube on the Silverado and it works well .
Bill
I have used the method that Jack sent you via youtube on the Silverado and it works well .
Bill
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Re: Need advice on 2002 Chevy Astro AWD repairs - IT RUNS!
That's a clever method for removing the wheel bearing! I'll put that in my memory bank and also pass it along.
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Re: Need advice on 2002 Chevy Astro AWD repairs - IT RUNS!
I guess, just call me "Cave man Stan". (as he put it) hehe. Crow bars, heel bars, wedges and chisels, I finally got the one changed on my Astro about a year ago. Next time I won't have to work so hard... If there's a next time......
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Re: Need advice on 2002 Chevy Astro AWD repairs - IT RUNS!
JackF wrote:Peter,
You’ll hear some noise from the spark arc and that’s it. If more than normal I would do some checking…pretty cold out there to be in the shoe leather mode…
Chevy truck front wheel bearings...
This is the way I did it when I couldn’t remove them.....The wheel bearing really gets rusted into the spindles. Ignore the attitude of the man in the video; he’s really not that bad in real life….he needs to work on a couple of Fords to adjust his altitude.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Ly3pC8tzDc
I have a distributor ordered so hopefully the clattering goes away when that is installed in the Astro. Still need to find the source of the fuel smell.
As far as the 2006 Silverado front wheel bearing/hubs;
Watched the video several times and tried to figure out how it would work on my suspension - came up empty. The drivers side was a bear. Beat on it for an hour, got it to move a little, sprayed some Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil in it, got the tip of a pry bar in, beat on it some more and finally after close to 2 hours we got it off. The passenger side came out with a couple of hits - done. Bolted up the new bearings, put things back together and took it for a test ride. Nice and quiet!
Peter
1957 Farmall Cub "Emory", Fast-Hitch, L-F194 Plow & Colter, L-38 Disc Harrow, Cub-54A Blade, Cub-22 Sickle Bar Mower, IH 100 Blade
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Re: Need advice on 2002 Chevy Astro AWD repairs - IT RUNS!
Just for future reference, I found this tool looking for another suspension tool I've been needing yesterday. When I saw it I thought about your project. For the price I am going to put one in my tool box.
Glad to hear you got those hubs out, they can be tough at times.
http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-39300.aspx
Glad to hear you got those hubs out, they can be tough at times.
http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-39300.aspx
"Work smarter; Not harder"
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Re: Need advice on 2002 Chevy Astro AWD repairs - IT RUNS!
Peter Person wrote:
You have a 2WD ... My apology sir for misleading you, I know how it is when someone tells you something and it isn’t anything like you‘re working on. I have the air hammer tool that Wakulla Bill told you about and it works good if the bearing isn’t rusted in very bad. If it’s rusted in bad on a 2WD drive I use a hydraulic Porta-Power, (rented from a parts store) put a adaptor on the foot of the ram place it on the frame rail; opposite side of truck, than put extensions on the ram and push(lot of pressure within reason) the hub flange on the bearing asm.. You can only do this on the back side(rear side of the truck) because the dust plate covers the front side. After you put pressure on the flange... release the ram... hit the flange opposite side you put pressure on with the ram very hard with a big mechanics’ hammer. Repeat this and with luck; after several times the bearing will come loose from the spindle. I had on many occasions; remove the spindle to push the bearing out with a press.
I forgot to write I always soak the interference area with a good rust breaker and heat area (lightly) to get the rust breaker in the rusted area.
Something I learned when I was forced to work on Fords… they always coated parts with interference area’s that were subject to high levels of moisture with moisture resistance grease. It made things a lot easier when taking apart. Since I learned the Ford trick I now do the same thing upon reassembly.
The fuel smell on the Astro.. I guess you checked the fuel regulator…they are big problems…if your SES light is off with no evaporative codes …your fuel evap system is sealed..it has to be external…fuel pressure side.
The ignition distributors have bushing problems which usually cause the rotor to clip the electrodes on the distributor cap….which causes the shoe leather mode on a very cold night…unless you have AAA.
Watched the video several times and tried to figure out how it would work on my suspension - came up empty...
You have a 2WD ... My apology sir for misleading you, I know how it is when someone tells you something and it isn’t anything like you‘re working on. I have the air hammer tool that Wakulla Bill told you about and it works good if the bearing isn’t rusted in very bad. If it’s rusted in bad on a 2WD drive I use a hydraulic Porta-Power, (rented from a parts store) put a adaptor on the foot of the ram place it on the frame rail; opposite side of truck, than put extensions on the ram and push(lot of pressure within reason) the hub flange on the bearing asm.. You can only do this on the back side(rear side of the truck) because the dust plate covers the front side. After you put pressure on the flange... release the ram... hit the flange opposite side you put pressure on with the ram very hard with a big mechanics’ hammer. Repeat this and with luck; after several times the bearing will come loose from the spindle. I had on many occasions; remove the spindle to push the bearing out with a press.
I forgot to write I always soak the interference area with a good rust breaker and heat area (lightly) to get the rust breaker in the rusted area.
Something I learned when I was forced to work on Fords… they always coated parts with interference area’s that were subject to high levels of moisture with moisture resistance grease. It made things a lot easier when taking apart. Since I learned the Ford trick I now do the same thing upon reassembly.
The fuel smell on the Astro.. I guess you checked the fuel regulator…they are big problems…if your SES light is off with no evaporative codes …your fuel evap system is sealed..it has to be external…fuel pressure side.
The ignition distributors have bushing problems which usually cause the rotor to clip the electrodes on the distributor cap….which causes the shoe leather mode on a very cold night…unless you have AAA.
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Re: Need advice on 2002 Chevy Astro AWD repairs - IT RUNS!
JackF wrote:Peter Person wrote:Watched the video several times and tried to figure out how it would work on my suspension - came up empty...
You have a 2WD ... My apology sir for misleading you, I know how it is when someone tells you something and it isn’t anything like you‘re working on. I have the air hammer tool that Wakulla Bill told you about and it works good if the bearing isn’t rusted in very bad. If it’s rusted in bad on a 2WD drive I use a hydraulic Porta-Power, (rented from a parts store) put a adaptor on the foot of the ram place it on the frame rail; opposite side of truck, than put extensions on the ram and push(lot of pressure within reason) the hub flange on the bearing asm.. You can only do this on the back side(rear side of the truck) because the dust plate covers the front side. After you put pressure on the flange... release the ram... hit the flange opposite side you put pressure on with the ram very hard with a big mechanics’ hammer. Repeat this and with luck; after several times the bearing will come loose from the spindle. I had on many occasions; remove the spindle to push the bearing out with a press.
I forgot to write I always soak the interference area with a good rust breaker and heat area (lightly) to get the rust breaker in the rusted area.
Something I learned when I was forced to work on Fords… they always coated parts with interference area’s that were subject to high levels of moisture with moisture resistance grease. It made things a lot easier when taking apart. Since I learned the Ford trick I now do the same thing upon reassembly.
The fuel smell on the Astro.. I guess you checked the fuel regulator…they are big problems…if your SES light is off with no evaporative codes …your fuel evap system is sealed..it has to be external…fuel pressure side.
The ignition distributors have bushing problems which usually cause the rotor to clip the electrodes on the distributor cap….which causes the shoe leather mode on a very cold night…unless you have AAA.
Jack,
No apology necessary.
The Silverado is 4WD, it's just that when we tried to set up the socket/extension on the lower bolts and back to the fixed portions of the steering knuckle, there was nothing for it to jam against where it would not slip away. I coated the inside of the steering knuckle where the bearing goes with anti-sieze as well as the spindle.
The Astro distributor should be a pretty straightforward replacement when it comes in. The "Check Engine" dash light came on yesterday. My son has an "App" for his smart phone that reads the codes - P0404. There has to be a fuel leak somewhere, just need to chase it down or take it to a garage that can do what Rob in NH suggests.
Thanks,
Peter
1957 Farmall Cub "Emory", Fast-Hitch, L-F194 Plow & Colter, L-38 Disc Harrow, Cub-54A Blade, Cub-22 Sickle Bar Mower, IH 100 Blade
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Re: Need advice on 2002 Chevy Astro AWD repairs - IT RUNS!
Peter,
If I remember DTC PO404 is an EGR code and I think it pertains to the EGR connector or wiring.
If I remember DTC PO404 is an EGR code and I think it pertains to the EGR connector or wiring.
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Re: Need advice on 2002 Chevy Astro AWD repairs - IT RUNS!
PO404
Usually this code points to either carbon buildup or a bad EGR valve. However that doesn't rule out the following:
Open or short in the 5 Volt reference circuit
Open or short in the ground circuit
Open or short in the PCM controlled voltage circuit
Bad PCM (less likely)
Check for carbon buid up first. You can clean the valve with carb cleaner, a rag and small wire brush.
Bill
Usually this code points to either carbon buildup or a bad EGR valve. However that doesn't rule out the following:
Open or short in the 5 Volt reference circuit
Open or short in the ground circuit
Open or short in the PCM controlled voltage circuit
Bad PCM (less likely)
Check for carbon buid up first. You can clean the valve with carb cleaner, a rag and small wire brush.
Bill
"Work smarter; Not harder"
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Re: Need advice on 2002 Chevy Astro AWD repairs - IT RUNS!
Wakulla Bill wrote:PO404
Usually this code points to either carbon buildup or a bad EGR valve. However that doesn't rule out the following:
Open or short in the 5 Volt reference circuit
Open or short in the ground circuit
Open or short in the PCM controlled voltage circuit
Bad PCM (less likely)
Check for carbon buid up first. You can clean the valve with carb cleaner, a rag and small wire brush.
Bill
Bill,
Looking at this photo of an EGR Valve do I clean from the "bottom" or is there further disassembly before cleaning?
At over $100, if there is a way to clean it, that would be preferable.
Thanks,
Peter
1957 Farmall Cub "Emory", Fast-Hitch, L-F194 Plow & Colter, L-38 Disc Harrow, Cub-54A Blade, Cub-22 Sickle Bar Mower, IH 100 Blade
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Re: Need advice on 2002 Chevy Astro AWD repairs - IT RUNS!
Peter, I have always used a scanner to open the valve,however you may be able to gently push the pintle( pic below with arrow) in far enough to get the carb spray in there and use a pipe cleaner. In the other passage you can use a brush or small screwdriver to breakup the carbon if it is heavy. Just be carefull around the pinle and seat as not to score or damage the sealing area.
Hope this helps, if you need more info let me know.
Bill
Hope this helps, if you need more info let me know.
Bill
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