Mon Feb 11, 2013 1:46 am
I bought a blade a few weeks ago for my cub. This weekend, I put it together and mounted it on the tractor. I realize that this is an old piece of equipment and everything is not as tight as when it was new. Initially, the blade would raise unevenly. But after some bending and tightening and adding a couple of washers on one side of the hitch, things evened out. While people in the east were using their cubs to clear snow from their driveways, I was using my cub to grade my Dad's driveway. I will do mine next weekend.
Mon Feb 11, 2013 4:58 am
A blade in the grader position is great. Be careful how hard you hit rocks and stuff. We had a grader blade on our first Cub and I cracked the final drive housing just next to the seat post. I have a drag behind grader from DR now that works wonderfully and just bounces up if I hit something solid and immovable. Far less of a chance of breaking anything on the new "old" tractor. I am looking for that particular blade for snow. I've got a 10 hp walk behind snow blower, but there's lots of times up here when getting it out seems too much effort for 4 inches of the light fluffy stuff.
Mon Feb 11, 2013 11:02 am
I can't agree more than with the last post. In fact, below is an excerpt from the book:
"Cub leveling and grader blades were designed and intended to level and grade loose dirt and perform light dozer jobs as noted in the 54A-L-54 manual"
You surely want to be cautious about striking fixed objects. It is also good practice to check all of the blade's fasteners and mounting bolts after every use as they tend to loosen after hard use. This is especially critical if the blade is moved to the front utilizing the implement mounting holes.
Mon Feb 11, 2013 2:53 pm
In my last post I forgot to mention that if you hadn't noticed, that blade assembly is adjustable to create a road crown. Besides angling left to right, as well as leaned forward or back, there is another adjustment where the frame meets the blade.
There are three or more holes on brackets welded on both sides of the plow where the frame connects. Two pins allow the blade to rotate left high, right low or vice versa.
If those pins are not in the the same holes, perhaps that was why you had to add washers
Mon Feb 11, 2013 11:48 pm
Thanks for the advice. I will leave the heavy duty grading for the John Deere 520 and Killefer blade. The blade is set level. The problem, I think, lies with the shaft and bracket that bolt to the drawbar. The shaft is no longer very straight and the holes have gotten a bit larger than original.
Tue Feb 12, 2013 12:13 am
Also, when belly mounted and grading, I find that 1st gear at an idle works best. When you get a hard spot or a blade full, the governor will kick in and pull through.
More throttle or a higher gear will just cause the tires to spin and make hole, with the downpressure of the blade trying to make a cut.
Tue Feb 12, 2013 10:19 am
The Cub blade mounted in the grader position is quite possibly my favorite feature on the Cub. I've graded an acre of my back yard with one, and loved every minute of it. I typically leave mine mounted this way all year around because it's not really in the way, can still use the drawbar, and if I till up something and need to level it out I'm all set.
Here is a video my son shot last month. No weights, and I could have kept going all day long!http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DYPXSsjLpw
Sun May 26, 2013 6:22 pm
My question is whether the drag behind blade is attached fixed to the rear or is it in a PTO? My 53 cub has a belly mower that is belt driven from the rear axle to the mower. Can I still add the drag behind, even though it will be fixed and not go up and down?
Sun May 26, 2013 6:56 pm
IH only made a rear blade for the fast hitch. To answer your question you would need to find out if the DR blade (or other brands) mounted to the rear finals or to the drawbar or some other combination.
Sat Jun 15, 2013 5:12 pm
Bob McCarty wrote:IH only made a rear blade for the fast hitch. To answer your question you would need to find out if the DR blade (or other brands) mounted to the rear finals or to the drawbar or some other combination.
The DR grader is a simple drag. It has its own raising and lowering mechanism controlled by a remote control you wear around your neck. There is no PTO or touch control involvement at all. It does have its drawbacks. I have not yet figured out how to put a crown in the driveway, and it only digs in about a half inch at a time. But it did a perfect job leveling and filling in potholes on my 200+ foot gravel driveway.
Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group.
phpBB Mobile / SEO by Artodia.