Mag oil seal n stall question

[Jdbfish]

Ok, I messed up the new magneto drive oil seal trying to install it. I was using a PVC fitting and it bent the inside diameter in and squeezed to seal out of the metal on the seal. I cant find anything close to outside diameter to use as a driver.How do you install without damage ? Is there a tool or does someone have something they made? If so, I could sure use it. I will pay shipping both ways if someone has one they could lend. Thanks folks'...........

[Bill Hudson]

Earl Fauble makes a slick installation tool just for that seal. Works like a charm. I suggest that you get one from him and then you have it on hand whenever the need arises, and trust me the need will arise. Send a PM to "Earl" and he can fix you up.

[RaymondDurban]

The following steps only work if you have wood working tools available...

1) Take a small piece of hardwood and plane it down to the correct thickness (23/32"), or as close as you can using a caliper to measure the board.
2) Then take a new seal and trace an outline of it on the board. Cut the outline out of the board on the inside of the line, so it's a bit smaller in diameter than the seal.
3)Cut out another circle, larger than the seal and stack it on the first circle you cut out. This will create a "lip" so that the seal isn't driven in too far. Drill a hole through both and bolt them together.
4) Now you have a driver that is the correct size as to equalize the contact points, and thickness so that the seal is set to the proper place.

I've made a few like this and they work great!

[BIGHOSS]

Has there ever been a drawing posted on here for this tool? This could be a future lathe project for me, if my 3 jaw chuck is big enough.

Whoops, Raymond is faster than me. I still would like dims.

[RaymondDurban]

When I get to Fla, I'll get the dimensions and a few pics for everyone. It's real easy to make if you have the right tools. I used the lathe on mine to get it nice and perfect, but not in a chuck. I just squeezed the boards up between the tailstock and motor after the rough cut with a scroll saw. The lathe dimples in the wood created the center points for the drill press to create the holes necessary to bolt them together.

[Boss Hog]

I just bought the tool I think I have all of Earls tool except the Mag tool [ cause I hate mags ]
He does great work and his tools will last a life time

Boss

[BIGHOSS]

Thanks Raymond. Plan to be at DSCF around 3 PM Thurs the 14th. See you then.

[Jdbfish]

Thanks everyone. I do have some woodworking tools but not a planer or a lathe. If someone else has some more ideas please let me know. I sent Earl a pm, waiting on a response. I need to find a cubber close to me so we can share tools, deals, and help!!!!

[Bill V in Md]

Did you use a seal driver on your first attempt? If not, you can purchase a set of these at Harbor Freight, and they are not too expensive. They are not as specific to this particular task as Earl's tool, but they will work in a pinch. You just have to be careful that you drive the seal in far enough, but not too far. I used a seal driver and a digital micronometer to measure the depth. Not super easy, but it can be done. Good luck.

[Jdbfish]

Thanks Bill, may have to try that if I don't hear anything from Earl. Hopefully he will reply to my pm soon.

[Rudi]

I have some of Earl's tools. They are simply great items. Added to what I have from Rick Prentice and a couple other members and I have some very slick/valuable tools for working on my Cubs. When I got some of them I figured they really would only be used once, maybe twice. Since then I have realized that some of them get more use than I imagined. I am really pleased that I have these special tools.

I am kinda kickin my tush though. As many know I am a Cabinet Maker by profession (being a soldier/sailor is my vocation), one would think that I would have put that skill to use. In my trade I made so many jigs and tools that I should have thought about it. I have lots of maple and eastern birch that would be perfect for these tools.

Either way,

The following steps only work if you have wood working tools available...

1) Take a small piece of hardwood and plane it down to the correct thickness (23/32"), or as close as you can using a caliper to measure the board.
2) Then take a new seal and trace an outline of it on the board. Cut the outline out of the board on the inside of the line, so it's a bit smaller in diameter than the seal.
3)Cut out another circle, larger than the seal and stack it on the first circle you cut out. This will create a "lip" so that the seal isn't driven in too far. Drill a hole through both and bolt them together.
4) Now you have a driver that is the correct size as to equalize the contact points, and thickness so that the seal is set to the proper place.

I've made a few like this and they work great!

This is now the latest Cub Tip of the Week! February 04, 2013. Thanks Raymond I really am kickin my tush

[Barnyard]

I was going to wait for the dimensions before posting this in the how to forum, but I figured I would forget, so I went ahead and made Raymond's tip a how to in the ignition section. Once we have the dimensions Raymond will update the thread.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Did you use a seal driver on your first attempt? If not, you can purchase a set of these at Harbor Freight, and they are not too expensive.........

The handle of a seal driver set will not fit in the space and be able to get anything in their to drive it with, the oil filter housing is in the way. Also they will not work if the governor is still installed.

[Bigdog]

Another issue is that there are differences in thickness of the replacement seals. Earl's seal setter with the adaptor ring can set either thickness of seal.
These tools are a great value for the price.

[RaymondDurban]

Bigdog, I understand the different thicknesses of replacement seals, but is the lip not in the same place?