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154 cub cubic inch.

IH CUB Lo-Boy Series - 154, 184, 185 Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Lo-Boy related issues.
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welderskelter
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154 cub cubic inch.

Postby welderskelter » Fri Jan 11, 2013 7:50 pm

Anybody know the cu. in. displacement of a 154 cub loboy ?

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RaymondDurban
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Re: 154 cub cubic inch.

Postby RaymondDurban » Fri Jan 11, 2013 8:03 pm

It has a total of 59.5 cu.in. with a displacement of 6.5 to 1.

welderskelter
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Re: 154 cub cubic inch.

Postby welderskelter » Fri Jan 11, 2013 9:51 pm

Thank you. I am putting a different carb on it because it came with an International one and as far as I am concerned they really suck. I found one on an old wisconsin 2 cl. that I think is compatible. Hope it works. Harold

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Re: 154 cub cubic inch.

Postby Rudi » Sat Jan 12, 2013 3:03 pm

Harold:

The IH 3/4" Updraft Carb was designed specifically for the needs of the C-60 engine. If your carb is not performing as it should then you need to investigate the reasons causing this lack of performance.

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welderskelter
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Re: 154 cub cubic inch.

Postby welderskelter » Sat Jan 12, 2013 4:41 pm

I know what the problem is. International built a carb that wasnt stupid proof. It is really cold blooded and has to be cranked alot to get started even at 60 degrees. The bolts were overtightened so much that you can no longer get a good seal and I believe it sucks air.

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Re: 154 cub cubic inch.

Postby Bob McCarty » Sat Jan 12, 2013 7:12 pm

The top can be flattened, but if it's leaking air, it would also be leaking gas.

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Re: 154 cub cubic inch.

Postby SONNY » Sat Jan 12, 2013 7:24 pm

Dont waste your time on the Wisconsin 2 cylinder carb!---IT WONT WORK! thanks; sonny

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Re: 154 cub cubic inch.

Postby Rudi » Sat Jan 12, 2013 9:27 pm

welderskelter wrote:I know what the problem is. International built a carb that wasnt stupid proof. It is really cold blooded and has to be cranked alot to get started even at 60 degrees. The bolts were overtightened so much that you can no longer get a good seal and I believe it sucks air.


The carb isn't stupid proof - no such thing. Anybody can screw up a carb, - that is pretty easy. However, IH did build a carb that could be easily maintained by the average farmer as long as they read the manual.

However, just because somebody boogered it up doesn't mean it is junk. If you truly think it is junk - mail it to me - I will take it off your hands - not a problem. And I will give you what it is worth to me as a parts carb. Or you can fix it yourself and we can give you the help you need.

How To Make an Updraft Carb Straightening Jig
How To Make a Simple Platform to Straighten Warped Carb Tops

Before you take the carb apart - study the parts breakdown below, so that when you do take it apart you don't break anything. Once the top is straightened then you need to lap the bottom half of the carb. First you have to take the idle tube out. Be careful they break easy and are expensive. Here is the parts breakdown of the carb:

Image

Mr. Jesse wrote this article on How To Straighten IH Updraft Carburetor Tops. His jig is different than mine and Dan's. We miss both of them.
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Re: 154 cub cubic inch.

Postby SONNY » Sun Jan 13, 2013 1:31 pm

Rudi!!!!!!!!!----Thanks for the pic!!! you just helped me! NOW I am ready to attack my 49 carb!LOL!! thanks; sonny

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Re: 154 cub cubic inch.

Postby Rudi » Sun Jan 13, 2013 10:52 pm

You are welcome Sonny :)
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Re: 154 cub cubic inch.

Postby Landreo » Mon Jan 14, 2013 11:17 am

The carbs on a tjd/thd wisconsin engine will work except the levers may not be on the correct side. Should be an easy switch if that is the route you want to go.

The IHC carb is simple, not much to go wrong. Unplug all the ports, set the float by fuel level not float level, flatten the top, and all should work.

A top level plate is simple to make, literally a few minutes with a drill and you can make one.

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Re: 154 cub cubic inch.

Postby welderskelter » Sat Jan 26, 2013 7:47 pm

Thank you Landreao. Its off of a THD. Hope it works, got to wait till it warms up. Its been way below zero up here and I dont have much insulation in the shop for that. Thanks

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Re: 154 cub cubic inch.

Postby BigBill » Sun Jan 27, 2013 1:28 pm

Just a note of caution;

I have noticed a lot of these carbs has the #25 o ring gasket missing on the #12 nozzle discharge. Most might not think about it but the gas level in the carb bowel is above this gasket. Thus you can have a running rich problem down the road. If its not there its missing it. Hard starting can be the idle butterfly is open too much to make it idle from a high gas level with the float being too high. With the carb / float being set and the idle mix being set it should start right up on the choke. I've made the worst, abused carbs work again.

i get my carb kits from http://www.mcdonaldcarb.com He has parts for the IH & zenith carb and parts for most tractors. He's my number 2 go to guy besides TM.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.

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Re: 154 cub cubic inch.

Postby Boss Hog » Sun Jan 27, 2013 7:31 pm

The 154 cub only turns 1950 or so rpm , what does the Wisconsin engine turn?
It may work, I do not know how well though.
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Re: 154 cub cubic inch.

Postby Eugene » Sun Jan 27, 2013 7:57 pm

Boss Hog wrote:The 154 cub only turns 1950 or so rpm , what does the Wisconsin engine turn? It may work, I do not know how well though.
3600 rpms.

Wisconsin Instruction Book and Parts List for Models TH, THD, TJD, 2 cylinder, 53.9 cubic inch engines lists 27 different carburetor, Zenith Assembly numbers. Only one of the 27 carburetors matches the internal parts for the Cub's engine.
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