IH CUB LoBoy Series - 154, 184, 185 Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your LoBoy related issues.
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Thanks Sonny,I got the tractor back in the garage,looking closer,It looks like it may be the drive shaft splines or clutch disk.So anybody have experiance removing the drive shaft?Looks like this is gonna be a whole lot of fun...NOT! Any pointers where to start?Does this involve moving the engine forward to get the drive shaft out?Thanks in advance to anyone who may be able to answer these questions.
It isn't the greatest Service Guide but the IH-38 1974 Edition Complete - Maintenace Manual for Cub 154 Lo-Boy's does help in this exercise. I think the pertinent sections are 37 - 49.
Depends on your tractor. Serial number U018709 and below you need to move the engine forward.
Above that serial number you are suppose to be able to slide the unbolted drive shaft forward, remove the clutch release bearing, and slide the drive shaft out.
GSS-1408, Service Manual for International Cub 154 and 185 Low-Boy tractors. Need to have a copy. Nice clear photos and explanations.
I have an excuse. CRS.
Your 154 should have a one piece driveshaft. Need to loosen and slide the front coupler backwards along the driveshaft 3 inches or so. Remove the clutch fork. Push the driveshaft into the flywheel center depression. This will allow the rear of the driveshaft to clear the clutch disc splines. drop or raise the rear of the shaft to clear the clutch disc and pull backwards, the front of the shaft will now drop out of the flywheel depression and the shaft front will fall downwards under the engine flywheel. Pull the shaft out from under towards the front.
The actual process may vary slightly but should take 30 minutes to remove and replace the shaft. Not all that long of a process.
Get a stool to sit on, no need to remove any mower deck. Remove the two front side plates and the tunnel cover. Need to pull the shifter knob off to get the cover to clear. Remove the 5/16 allen head clamp bolt from the front coupler. Leave the coupler attached to the flywheel until later. To remove the clamp bolt and to install the bolt you will need a socket allen wrench. A standard "L" shaped allen wrench will not be strong enough. Take a roll of emery cloth and run back and forth on the driveshaft starting just behind the coupler. Clean off the paint and rust until you have at least 3 inches of clean metal showing on the drive shaft. The coupler needs to slide onto that area and it needs to be clean so it does not jam. If you are lucky, the shaft will turn in the coupler, if so then remove the 4 coupler bolts. If not then clamp a vise grip on the driveshaft so the handle of the visegrips rest on the tractor frame. This is to keep the driveshaft from turning. Try to rotate the engine flywheel and the coupler with the driveshaft immobilized by the visegrips. It may only rotate a fraction of a degree initially. Rotate the otherway. Back and forth fractions of a degree and it will eventially break loose and turn. Penetrating oil may help as will heat on the coupler. The coupler has 4 rubber bushings inserted into the bolt holes so be careful with the heat. Back and forth, back and forth, back and forth until the coupler is free. Remove the 4 coulpler bolts and slide the coupler towards the rear of the shaft onto the 3 inches of clean shaft. Then do what is in the first paragraph.
When reinstalling the shaft, remember the grease fitting on the throwout bearing goes up not down. The clamp bolt is a clamp bolt and needs to squeeze the sides of the coupler enough to firmly anchor the coupler onto the driveshaft. You will never get the bolt tight enough with a small allen wrench, need a socket adapter. If the coupler will not tighten then the shaft or the coupler may have been left loose by a PO and is too worn to clamp tightly. Make sure you grease the throwout sleave bearing, the actual throwout is a ball bearing but there is a brass alignment sleave that needs to be greased.
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