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I am a big fan of supplemental fuel filtering. It is necessary if you want modern day reliability from a machine with a primitive fuel screening system.
Properly installed supplemental filtering used in conjunction with good fuel line will eliminate the problems that flow into your carburator with the gas, plugging orfices and propping open needle valves or at the very least, causing poor starting and engine performance.
I installed the first inline fuel filter on my dad's cub in the late '70's. That filter lasted almost 25 years with only sediment bowl service, the carburator provided outstanding performance the for two and a half decades. Ten years ago when I inherited the tractor, it was serviced and that filter was replaced.
A couple of years ago, I again changed the filter, this time I opted for a clear glass "racing" filter. And just as reported in previous posts, I also thought it was an oddity not to see fuel in the sight glass yet the gas continued to flow at an appropriate rate.
I didn't dwell on it and the tractor never missed a beat regardless of how little fuel was visible in the sight glass.
In a matter of days the inside of the filter was looking terrible but at least it was stopping the crud before it got to the carb.
Upon close inspection of the fuel tank, I could see why the filter was looking bad, the inside of the tank looked horrible. And it still does.
I decided I needed an additional layer of filter protection so I installed a replaceable in-tank filter cartridge.
This filtering system has worked so well for me the clear inline filter still looks like new inside after almost 2 years of service.
I'm actually considering abandoning the external inline filter and bringing the copper fuel line up to code.
I searched the forum to see if anyone had done this before and found metallic sock like mesh filters have been installed but look to be permanently attached.
I chose to use a disposable cartridge because with the condition of my tank, I knew it would eventually plug up with the crap I saw collecting inside my clear inline filter.
This is a real easy modification and the best part as aforementioned, it is replaceable in about 30 seconds as often as necessary for about 3 bucks.
Obtain a one inch long piece of stiff plastic fuel line with an outside diameter of 1/4". This plastic line is usually clear and used on 2 cycle small power equipment. This piece will be inserted into the inlet of the sediment bowl to create a short standpipe inside the fuel tank.
(The inside of the sediment bowl tube is exactly the same diameter as the hole in the filter so if the fuel line you will be using fits snugly in the filter it will fit snugly inside the sediment bowl tube.)
If your sediment bowl is not IHC, I can't assure you it will be the same size.
Next buy a Fram CG 3389 paper element gas filter utilized back in the Quadrajet era from any auto parts jobber. Pull out the rubber end piece seal incorporating the check valve and spring. Cut the the end of the rubber cage off and discard it along with the valve and spring. Replace the rubber seal into the end of the filter. (This rubber insert is good for use in all modern fuels.)
The easiest way to install the standpipe is to drain the tank and remove the sediment bowl, but if you have patience, you can run it down a piece of stiff wire from the tank filler neck followed by a handful of 1/4" deep sockets. Press the tube down into the sediment bowl neck with the stacked sockets before extracting the guide wire. Retrieve the sockets with a magnet.
Reinstall the sediment bowl if it was removed to insert the plastic tube.
Next, obtain a long reach set of needle nose pliers, grasp the closed pressed metal end cap of the filter cartridge and lower it into the tank, pressing the opening with the rubber seal over the end of the standpipe protruding from the sediment bowl.
Have a set of mechanical fingers handy because you'll probably need to retrieve the filter at least once before successfully pressing it over the pipe. You may need a helper to hold the light if you don't have a hat or helmet light. You may find an easier way to install the filter by means of experimentation but I can usually stick them on the first or second try with the pliers.
Two paragraphs of caution....
Primarily remember if any fuel residue remains in the tank, you will be working over fumes so procede with and exercise extreme due caution.
Secondly, pre clean anything you dip in the tank. Your pliers, sockets, retriever, or any other device you recruit to press the filter onto the pipe needs to be spotless. Even though the filter will catch it, try not to add to the existing problem.
I recall recently reading a post by Bus Driver about bringing home unused surgical supplies from the doctors office for later use in the shop. Cub fuel systems require surgical suite like cleanliness all the way from the tank to the carburator if you expect trouble free operation and good performance. Use only clean tools when working inside any fuel system, gas or Diesel alike.
In-tank or inline fuel filters will not stop crap shedding from the fuel line so if you continue to be plagued with carb blockage, I would suggest replacement of the fuel line as soon as possible.
I will assure you that you will never see anything collect in the sediment bowl again as long as the filter remains in place.
I replace my in-tank filters once per year.
Clean fuel causes no problems.
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you may want to clean and coat the tank before the rust eats a hole in it.
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8th Va fest link viewtopic.php?f=8&t=81392&p=657790#p657790
Neat modification. But if the tank is reasonably clean, a regular sediment bowl, primitive as it is, will clean the fuel just fine.
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I think so too. I have not yet had a problem using the factory set up.
Good idea Mr. Lazyuniondriver (actually from reading your posts you're not lazy at all) but from my full-time farmer days I remember well when Murphy's law kicks in and you've still got 1000 bales to go and its going to rain tonight and it's going to a long winter and you really don't want to buy hay this year... these type ideas are what gets you through.
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Great writeup. Thanks for sharing. Will definitely be looking at doing this next time I have the tank off the tractor.
I have a very clean fuel tank with virtually no rust and I get tiny floaters into the main jet at least a couple of times a year. This will put those to an end.
Another method from a few years ago:
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To add to Al's comment a bit. The design of the original filter /bowl system also allows water and debris to exit the tank and eventually leave you with a cleaner tank. Not degrading the internal idea , just adding to it.
Yup, interesting modification. Both Gary Boutwell and I have done these modifications:
Neither are permanent and simply removing the in tank filter will restore the system to the original Fuel Sediment Bowl Assembly. The reason I did my mod was cause it could be done, I wanted to try it and I had the parts so I did it. I still like the mod and will continue to use it, but only in conjunction with a clean and sealed with Red Kote tank. That is JMPP - as in Just My Personal Preference. A properly cleaned tank and regular service on the entire fuel circuit is sufficient. IH designed it to work that way and it has done the job admirably for over 60 years.
To me this is what a clean tank should look like:
Again that is JMPP, others use POR-15 or just clean the tank and keep it full of fuel. Which ever choice you make depends entirely on personal preference.
I agree the filter would be needed if the tank is in bad condition, and as soon as possible clean and seal the tank.
Very nice modification! Very well thought out. The Cub tank is really a pain to clean out with the baffle in there. This would be a great fix for those tanks that you just can't get as clean as you'd like.
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Yes absolutely. Although the corrosion is not as bad as it looks, it definitely needs attention before it digs in any deeper.
Most of the nastiness pictured has appeared over the last 10 years. Dad was very adamant about keeping fuel tanks topped off (except the tanks in my vehicles when I started driving... ) The 200 gallon gravity tank at home made it easy.
I don't have the luxury of a bulk tank so my top offs were not until 5 gallons would fit, never realizing how much damage was caused by condensation inside the partially filled tank. I've changed my ways.
If you're lucky enough to have never had to pull and clean a metering orfice, this demonstrates your fuel system is clean and the original filtration system is adequate. If its running well, leave it alone.
However, carburator related issues seem to be a weekly topic of discussion here on the forums so some folks may be interested in further filtering their fuel to enhance performance and reliability.
Fuel tank refurbishment is not a quick or cheap job. The replaceable filter can buy the time needed to get through the season or when time and money for the job become available.
I prefer to spend my tinkering time making improvements, not repairing or correcting starting or running issues which could have been prevented.
"HAVE ALL YOUR DELIVERIES MADE BY UNION DRIVERS"
I have a similar problem, lots of dirty tanks. I let the sediment bowl do its job and catch the debris so it is out of the tank and not in the carb. One of my cubs will occasionally spill enough fine rust that it will go through the sediment bowl. For that tractor I just put a filter after the sediment bowl.
I like trying to improve on old technology but it seem like you would want to get the sediment out of the tank and into the sediment bowl. Placing a filter after the bowl will double clean the fuel but still allow the debris to leave the tank.
The real trick is to keep the debris out of the tank. That was one of the reasons to have the tank cleaned and then sealed. I have been very happy with my sealed tank and for less than a Benjamin it was a real good investment.
Yes, ideally the best spot for a filter is just before or just inside the carburator like on automotive applications.
Contamination that would have entered the sediment bowl remains trapped and suspended in the paper element so the contaminant is eventually removed from the tank, just later than sooner.
I'm liking the fact I can swap filters in 30 seconds once the standpipe has been installed in the sediment bowl riser pipe plus since I never see a speck of anything in the glass jar, I know my fuel is pure.
For those following this post with the intention of adding the stand pipe and filter, up the plastic fuel line length to 1.5".
I did one today and this sediment bowl accepted more plastic pipe than my own tractors did, leaving the stub for the filter cartridge too short for my liking.
"HAVE ALL YOUR DELIVERIES MADE BY UNION DRIVERS"
15 posts • Page 1 of 1
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