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Tie Rod Question

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clodhopper
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Tie Rod Question

Postby clodhopper » Tue Nov 13, 2012 2:36 pm

Anyone have the measurements of the "ball" on the tie rods? A PO built mine up with welding, but did not grind it back to proper dimensions. They are "almost close enough" but not quite. If I tighten the bolts it locks the steering. Also, if it is a standard ball bearing size, i could just weld on on and fit it from there. Didnt know where else to look on the site, and didnt want to pay 65 a piece for new tubes.
Thanks!

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raystractors
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Re: Tie Rod Question

Postby raystractors » Tue Nov 13, 2012 6:37 pm

Do you have the shims in between before you tighten the bolts? There are several sizes that can be added.

lazyuniondriver
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Re: Tie Rod Question

Postby lazyuniondriver » Tue Nov 13, 2012 8:50 pm

My micrometer reads just shy of 0.800" 0.780" actual size. These joints are not new but are in good condition. They may have started at 0.800"
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clodhopper
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Re: Tie Rod Question

Postby clodhopper » Tue Nov 13, 2012 11:29 pm

lazyuniondriver wrote:My micrometer reads just shy of 0.800" 0.780" actual size. These joints are not new but are in good condition. They may have started at 0.800"

That gives me the info I need. Thanks Driver

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Re: Tie Rod Question

Postby lazyuniondriver » Wed Nov 14, 2012 2:34 pm

You betcha. Let us know how you make out.
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clodhopper
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Re: Tie Rod Question

Postby clodhopper » Wed Nov 14, 2012 8:52 pm

I have found that a steel ball measuring 25/32 inch would be almost exactly what your measurement was. If I can find some that are not hardened for ball bearing use, i am going to make them work.

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Re: Tie Rod Question

Postby Gary Dotson » Thu Nov 15, 2012 7:43 am

McMaster Carr has steel balls, maybe they have what you need.

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clodhopper
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Re: Tie Rod Question

Postby clodhopper » Thu Nov 15, 2012 6:56 pm

Gary Dotson wrote:McMaster Carr has steel balls, maybe they have what you need.

I have looked at Mcmaster Carr.
They have the 25/32 ball, but it is hardened chrome steel, non weldable.
The standard steel balls only come in 1/8 sizes above about 3/8.
Converting, the 25/32 is .7813
the 3/4 is .750....3 hundreths of an inch smaller.
the 7/8 is .875....I think that would be way too big... Any thoughts? Anyone have a new tie rod they would measure just as a comparison to Drivers measurement?
Thanks!!

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clodhopper
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1978 Cub Cadet 1650
cub 193 plow
cub 174 planter
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cub 144 cultivator
cadet 50C deck
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: Tie Rod Question

Postby clodhopper » Fri Nov 16, 2012 9:14 am

Since I needed to place an order with Mcmaster anyway, i ordered some 3/4 steel balls. I will let you folks know how it turns out. Might end up being a good how-to.

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clodhopper
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1978 Cub Cadet 1650
cub 193 plow
cub 174 planter
cub sidedresser
cub 144 cultivator
cadet 50C deck
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: Tie Rod Question

Postby clodhopper » Thu Nov 22, 2012 10:56 pm

I have the 3/4 steel balls, and have bolted them into the steering arm with a .030 shim. They appear to fit very good, with just a small amount of play, which should be fine once it is packed with grease. One question, I notice the tie rod ball is flat on top...is that to allow more grease to be "stored" in the joint or some other reason?

lazyuniondriver
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Re: Tie Rod Question

Postby lazyuniondriver » Fri Nov 23, 2012 9:18 am

Just speculation but I would assume the whole piece was fabricated from round stock then bent. The ball end would have had a small piece of round stock left from the lathe which was simply ground or cut off.
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lazyuniondriver
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Tractors Owned: 1949 & 1951 Farmall Cubs

Several Snapper Garden Tractors
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Southern Suburbs of Cleveland, Ohio

Re: Tie Rod Question

Postby lazyuniondriver » Fri Nov 23, 2012 10:36 am

Your new balls measuring 0.750 are not that far off from my used part measurement of 0.780 .

I didn't measure my shim but I think if you can successfully get the new balls stuck on, you will notice very little slack like I have when assembled, plus you've saved a whole pile of cash.
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tst
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Re: Tie Rod Question

Postby tst » Fri Nov 23, 2012 1:47 pm

The factory ball end was cast with the arm on it then welded into the tube
Tim

lazyuniondriver
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Location: Southern Suburbs of Cleveland, Ohio

Re: Tie Rod Question

Postby lazyuniondriver » Mon Nov 26, 2012 11:26 am

tst wrote:The factory ball end was cast with the arm on it then welded into the tube
Tim


You are correct. I had never noticed the mold mark or numbers on the piece leading me to believe they were either turned or forged.

Wouldn't seem logical to pour the metal through the ball end but that would explain the flat spot.
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AL Farmall Boy
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Re: Tie Rod Question

Postby AL Farmall Boy » Wed Jun 29, 2016 8:50 am

It is now 4 1/2 years later. How did this modification work and how is it holding up?
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